GIE21IETBFKB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Take off all , then install.. following the version..

I used the video Parts Select referenced on YouTube, which showed a technician doing the repair. In my particular instance I did not need to remove the escutcheon around the dispenser using a putty knife or remove screws from underneath. There are two tabs in lieu of the two screws that I used a Phillips screwdriver on to push in which released the control panel. It went just as the video showed w/o a hitch. I'd like to add that this is the second time I've used Parts Select for a different appliance and thank God for their showing you what the part looks like and the videos, it helps bolster your confidence to do the repair correctly! I only wish there was more sites like this.

I took the ice drawer out and turned it upside down. Then removed two philips screws holding the drawer front on. Then with a small straight edge screwdriver pry out the sides to release the locking tabs and remove the auger and crusher assembly. Then on the end of the auger remove the e-clip, slide the auger out and remove the broken part of the crusher dispenser and replace with new. Easier than it sounds. Parts Select was great to deal with. Had my parts in two days.

This was a great opportunity to clean the bottom 3 shelves. I unplugged the frig.,disconnected both water lines, unscrewed water tank, pulled water lines out, put new tank in and pushed new water lines in and connected them, and plugged frig. back in. I grabbed my glass to get a drink and feeling proud but no water. I thought about this for a while and came to the conclusion that the freezer was set to 9 and the water had frozen in the value in the door. I dropped the temp. in the freezer from 9 to 3 and after about 2 days the water worked just fine. I emptied the ice because it was clumped into one big piece. I heard the ice maker going to town all day long. I called for ice later and the motor that dispenses the ice was humming and no ice was dropping. I thought about it and could not come up with the answer so I called tech. at GE and he was no help. So I solved one problem and now I have another that I don't have an answer to. My last attempt is to remove the motor housing to see if gears are jammed or something else.

The three bulbs would then remain on, so I loosened them to keep them off. I didn't know that the cooling system also would stop when the door was open, so for two days only the side freezer was operational. When I discovered that, I hot glued the switch button off, while I searched for a replacement part. The replacement part was an exact duplicate. A simple prying out of the old switch - using a screwdriver, and the reconnection of the two wires connectors to the new part, and clicking back in place ... done. Seriously, it took two minutes.

found the correct bulbs, the hardest part.
un screwed old bulb.
Screwed in new bulb.
Waa La,
There was light.

The internal water line was leaking. I could not find any repair parts for my refrigerator but the GE 5/16 water line was the same size. I purchased 6' of tubing and two unions. Make sure the clean and square. If possible, make the cuts in a spot where you can use the pliers and wrench to tighten the union. I cut approximately 2' out of the existing line and replaced it with the same length of new line using the 2 unions, one on each end. Took about 5 minutes.

I started by finding thw dispenser door part. On the parts diagram it showed all the other parts I might need to replace. Due to the age of the fridge I decided to replace them all, especially the sprIngs. I made sure to watch all of the videos for each part. Although they overlapped, each one showed the repair in more detail. The repair was as shown. If your frosge has been in service like mine for many years, plan on taking thw whole ice chute and dispenser door assembly out for thorough cleaning. One trick I learned is to take pictures as I disassemble so I can refer back for reassembly. When I put it together, the microswitch didn't work. I ordered that part, the only one I missed initially and installed it when it came in. Everything worked well. There was no video for the torsion spring and alignment of the chute and frame is tricky, make sure you take a picture. Part Select should dona video foe that. The putty knife trick for the trim ring was key. It was only shown in one video for an internal part so glad I watched them all.

after replacing the door seal, I couldn't get the new seal to close and stay closed, so I replaced the closing arm and spring. The door will close now but not tightly and it's loosing cold air. So I made and patented a wooden block to put behind the freezer door handle and the refrigerator door handle to keep the doors closed. Available in black, white and natural tan. (just kidding about the patented part, but not the block)

Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.

Very easy novice could do

Removed broken switch with plastic scraper (press tension latch on bottom), moved two wire terminals to the new switch and pressed the new switch into the hole.

Removed icemaker from freezer, remove covers allowing access to dispenser. In the next step I removed the auger and broken shield as one assembly. With assembly out of icemaker it was a simple task of taking the broken shield off of auger and putting the new one on. Reassemble in reverse order as removed.

1. Emptied the crisper pan,
2. Removed it from the refrigerator,
3. Flipped it upside down,
4. Removed the old one by pulling it off,
5. Replaced it with the new OEM part. and
6. Reversed the process.

I went to the internet and found parts select web site. Saw all of the possible fixes for my problem and read all of the other repair stories. My story actually became a journey that is still continuing. I first changed the water filter, but still no water at the dispenser. I next disconnected the coupling at the bottom of the freezer door that carries water to the dispenser and when the dispenser was depressed, water flowed at the coupling, but not at the dispenser. After reconnecting the coupling, I turned the freezer setting to 1 for 4-5 days, but still no water at the dispenser (possibly the line was frozen, but we had recently been away for a week and the water dispenser still supplied water at a freezer setting of 4). Now I am at the point of the journey into replacing parts one at a time to get water. First I ordered the dual water valve for the ice maker and water dispenser. I replaced this valve with instructions from Parts Select and still no water at dispenser. Next I ordered and replaced the switch at the dispenser lever and still no water. Next was the solenoid attached to the ice door, ordered, replaced and still no water at dispenser. I am now at the final part in this repair and that is the $132 circuit board. So I will be ordering this part soon and hopefully that will fix the issue.