GSRL3KLXIFLB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I made my wife fix it.

I had to take off the back lower grate which was roughly six 1/4 screws. Disconnect the water lines to the ice maker and the filter manifold. Remove the manifold from the inside of the refrigerator by removing two 1/4” screws. Pull the manifold and line out from the inside of the refrigerator and reverse the process for the replacement.

Changing out solenoid was very easy, but you don't have to remove trim ring and it didn't fix my problem. Turns out a relay fell out of its holder in the piece you have after removing the 4 screws per the video.

I put the water hoses out the valve and put the hoses back in new valve after that put the valve in the same place with the nutdriver. When refrigerator take the temperature inside, the ice began really easy. Thank you.

It just unpluged and the new one plugged in. Simple. The part was reasonable and arrived very quickly. It sure is nice to have a light in the frig again.

Installing the part repaired the fridge and freezer immediately.

Snap out and snap in

Followed the instructions in the operator's manual to remove the door. Popped off cover of top hinge. Unscrewed the two screws holding pin down with socket set. Took off door. Unscrewed broken door stop with TORX socket. Replaced new door stop and reversed the process to replace the door. Very simple repair.

remove light cover then remove 4 screws holding light fixture in place pulled out fresh food inlet cover and had to removed 2 more screws at bottom of cover then unplug electrical connector. replace with new one then replace all 6 screws and light cover done. so far its been working great no more freeze ups.

My GE SideBySide fridge stopped making ice. The green LED light on the icemaker was not blinking. The water dispenser worked fine. Fridge is only 5 years old. Freezer temp set at 7 degrees...fridge at 37 degrees. I have been using these temps since new. GE hotline suggested freezer temp should be at zero degrees. That did not work. Second call suggested an airflow issue within the freezer...there should be 1 inch space between food and back wall. Still no ice. The water valve looks to be the issue. I ordered it and got it in 2 days. Valve is in the back bottom, refridgerator side. Push the white collars around the water hoses...Then pull the hoses out. An adjustable wrench removes the nut for the inlet hose. Disconnect 2 electrical plugs. Be sure to push the water hoses fully into the new valve. I pulled the white collars out a bit to insure a tight fit. I was surprised at how simple this was to install. As it turns out, I was still getting no ice. I ordered a new ice maker and now I'm getting ice. The icemaker was EVEN EASIER to install.

Replaced filter assembly

my freezer quit freezing, it would freeze for one day, thaw the next, so I went online, found PARTS SELECT, LOOKED UP MY MODEL #, come to find out it needed three parts to keep my freezer to freeze, first part was a thermistor a small PART took me longer to remove all the covers, and shelving, PULLED THE OLD OUT, CUT THE WIERS TO SIZE, AND REINSTALLED, IT WELL! THAT WASN'T ENOUGH THE FREEZER STILL DIDN'T FREEZE IT THOUT IT WAS A COOL WORMING OVEN, HAD TO INSTALL THE THERMISTOR I, SO I DID, TEN MIN, NOW I THOUGHT THAT WAS IT BECAUSE IT STAYED FROZEN FOR A WEAK, HAVE YOU EVER EATEN SOUPY ICE CREAM? SO BACK TO PARTS SELECT, THIS TIME I BOUGHT ONE MORE PT, THE RUN CAPACITOR, FIVE MIN, THAT/S ALL IT TOOK TO INSTALL. I DID NOT KNOW AT THE TIME YOU NEED THE THREE OF THEM TO RUN THE FREEZER ONE TO KEEP THE TEMP., ONE TO KEEP THE FAN RUNNING THE WAY IT SHOULD, AND THE THIRD TO MAKE SURE THE OTHER TWO KEEP RUNNING. NOW I CAN SET IT AT 4- 5 AND. FREEZE.

I replaced the original solenoid, which had rusted into one solid piece. OMG how easy was that!

Ordered new solenoid so the flap would close. That did the trick.

Take the face (the part with the buttons on the outside) off, disconnect wired connectors (three), take the screws out of the part behind that (4), and then find the solenoid value (on the right). It's attached with three screws. Mine was rusted beyond belief. I knew this was the problem, ordered a new solenoid valve, put it back in place with three screws (use new screws that fit, not the old rusty ones if possible). When testing, make sure you give the flap a couple of seconds to close. There is a delay, and I initially wasn't patient enough so I had to disassemble and assemble an extra time because of this.

Simply put: If your solenoid value is rusted and the value won't operate smoothly, order the part and install it. This is as easy as any repair could be.