TFXC20RRAWH General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove three screws insert part; manually checked out drive and waited for ice to buildup and it worked like new.

Removed screws and components for the bucket - installed new bucket with screws - working fine.

Since the cam riser was obviously broken I obtained a replacement.
It also broke. The door hinge cam needed to be replaced also.
To repair Remove the hinge cover using a #2 phillips driver. Than remove the Hinge using an 8mm socket. Turn the door upside down and, using an 8mm socket remoge the cam riser and the door hinge cam.
Replace in reverse order.
Be sure to inspect all parts and order all required.

First I propped up the door. Then I removed the 2 screws that hold the hinge on. AT this point you do need someone else because the door swings loose. I attached the new bracket and lowered the door. It went verey smooth. I ordered the new bracket after reading the installation stories from others who just repaced the plastic pieces. Its worth the extra money to just put on a new bracket

Was concerned that new icemaker was quite a bit different than the one we were replacing. Called GE to confirm it was correct.

Went ahead and installed the unit, using the supplied electric cable adapter.

A little difficult to deal with the extra cable, but everything worked OK and it's making ice normally.

I followed the directions of Steve on the installation video. He makes it easy to do the repair with his step by step description of the installation. I have repaired three different aging appliances with help of Steve and PartSelect's very helpful Customer Service.
I wish Steve a wonderful retirement and hope PartSelect can find someone as easy to follow for future videos. The videos are priceless for the repairs.

The replacement single outlet water valve was not an exact replacement and required a slightly different mounting position. The original plastic hose to the ice maker attached to the valve with a plastic nut. The new connection requires only pushing the hose into a hole in the valve. Easy and simple. However, the new mounting angle promptly broke the brittle old plastic hose. I was able to pick the broken pieces of hose out of the valve with a fine point pick saving the new valve. If I hadn't been able to pick the broken pieces out of the new valve I would have had to order another one. Off to the big box store to buy new 1/4 inch plastic hose and a coupler. Repair completed and no leaks. If the hose hadn't broken, the I would have been done in 15 minutes. I suggest you plan to replace the entire plastic hose when you replace the valve.

Kenmore 24 cu.ft. Side by Side Refrigerator. The bottom cam on the fresh food side of our refrigerator broke causing the door to stay open about 4 inches. We had to lift the door up about an inch to close it. We removed the top bracket cover by removing one screw with a screwdriver. We then removed two screws with a ratchet and socket, to remove the top bracket, which allowed us to lift the door up and off of the refrigerator. We removed two screws with a socket to remove the Door Cam and Shim. We replace the Shim, and Door Cam with the two screws. Make sure you line the Cam up with the hole it goes over, and tighten it up. Place the door over the bottom bracket, and replace and adjust the top bracket and cover.

Parts Select made this an effortless process. From finding the part, ordering, to the online diagrams.

I'll be back...

I pulled the refrigerator away from the wall and turned off the water to the refrigerator and unplugged it from the wall. After removing the icebucket from the freezer I located the mounting screws, loosened them, unplugged the electrical connection below the icemaker and carefully removed it from the freezer. I unpacked the replacement icemaker, matched it against the original and attached the electrical connection adapter. Using the slots provided on the new icemaker I placed it over the mounting screws after aligning the water inlet pipe properly. I tightened the mounting screws while maintaining the icemaker in a level position. I plugged in the electrical connector. Then I replaced the icebucket, plugged in the refigerator back into the 110VAC outlet, turned on the water and repositioned the refrigerator in it's normal position.

two screws and a connector were removed to replace the timer.
Timer was located on the top front of fridge

The original piece was already removed. installation required a little custom fitting as the mounting was slightly different and the copper tubing from the water line needed to be bent to fit. The push in plastic connection (output to the icemaker itself ) was simple ( I was a little leary of it not leaking.)
I plugged in the solenoid connection first
I attached both water lines and checked for fit. Made the adjustments and then screwed the bracket back on to the refrigerator. I could only install one screw but it holds it fine. I did have to trim the hard press board(cardboard) a little to fit the new valve. I believe the board is to protect against dust build up on the mechanical equipment (motor, condenser,etc)

It could not have been easier. The new part matched the old part exactly. I turned the water off going to the refrigerator, unscrewed one screw from the old part, pulled the electric plug loose, disconnect the copper water line from old part, cut off the black plastic tube next to the water valve going to the icemaker, and the new water valve was ready to install. It's that simple. I then took the new water valve, connected the copper water line to it, pushed the black plastic water line into its hole, connected the electric plug, and screwed the new part onto the refrigerater. In a matter of minutes I had water running to my icemaker again. I can't imagine the money I saved by doing this simple project myself. This took less than 10 minutes.

Took unit apart but did not take photos of how to put unit back together, so needless to say it took longer then it should have. My error. Ordering the part was very easy and within days the part arrived at my door. Should the need arise, I would order again from Part Select.com.

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.