MTRC0FAZARWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Googled the model number of refrigerator with symptoms of "refrigerator wont run". Parts select web site appeared on my screen, opened Parts Select website, Partselect said probable cause of my frige symptom was that the run capacitor usually burns out 51% of the time. They were correct with the diagnosis 100%. I ordered the run capacitor for $23.00, installed it in 10 minutes, refrigerator runs good as new. Thank you for saving me cost of service call. I probably saved $200 or more. I will use Partselect again with my next problem. THANK YOU,

I followed the instructions on your YouTube video exactly and it was a snap. By far the hardest part of the repair was to fit the back tab of the fan assembly in the tight slot on the way out. The result was immediate and like having a new refrigerator. I'm a 68-yo retired woman but thanks to you I now feel empowered -- will tackle next appliance repair with confidence. Thank you.

Pull the old off ..put new one on

Easy. Followed the video instrucations. the part was right there next to the compressor.

First I flipped breaker to off position for refigerator, Pulled down on socket and broke it free. Then took needle nose piars to pull wire and plug out from hole, so I could conect to new light socket then snaped it in place . Hardest part was getting wire and plug out of hole.

I removed cover above the light from the back of the freezer. I removed the fan and clipped the wire leads, after disconnecting the breaker to the fridge. I connected the wires with wire "union" from Radio Shack. Could have used wire nuts. I put the breaker on to check that it was running, then put the cover back on. However, to fix the build up of ice on the coils in the back of the freezer, I also replaced the thermisor and the heater coil after defrosting the coils with a hair dryer. Both were easy repairs and the fridge works fine.

Removed rer cover, unplugged starter assembly from side of compressor and replaced unit with a new one. Plugged fridge in and it works good.

I followed the instructions in the video regarding removal, repair and reinstall. It all went as the video said, except for the reinstall. The rear tab did not snick into place like the one in the video did, and it was extremely difficult to see whether or not it was inserted properly. I ended up inserting the rear tab by feel, and then I had to hold it in place while I stretched the front part of the frame to line up the screw hole in order to reinsert the screw. I had to have my wife hold the flashlight while I did that in order to see. Other than that, the repair went well, it is working like a charm, and I know I have a quality GE part in my refrigerator again! Many thanks to Partselect for their speediness in getting the part to me and giving me the needed information in getting the repair done! I will shop here again.

Water still came out the front when pressed, but no ice. After removing the Ice container, & the top shelf I noted the icemake inlet was iced over. I turned off the icemaker, turned down the freezer temp, & allowed Ice to melt, but problem returned. I next removed the back bottom cover & cleaned the condenser coils, & drain pan; they were extremely dirty. Then I noticed the condensor fan was not on. After getting the nomenclature plate info off the condenser fan motor I left the back cover off, & put an external fan to blow on the coils as a temporaty fix until I could get the part & replace it. During that time the refrig functioned normally. 3 days later my condenser fan motor I ordered from Parts Select arrived & I installed it.

took screw that holds motor frame in place out with nutdriver, rolled motor frame out after unplugging motor,took screw out of strap that held motor in frame, removed bushings from old motor and put them on the new one and re3versed the proceedure.

Remove back panel . Removed fan shroud. Replaced fan and panel. Ops ck ok so far

I replaced the thermostat, temperature sensor, and the run capacitor. . . Refrigerator still not cooling. I checked the start relay and measured the input terminals on the compressor for the correct resistance. . . Everything measured correctly. In a last ditch effort before calling for service, I pulled the main board, inspected it and saw the problem right away. One leg on the compression capacitor had desoldered itself. Got out my soldering iron and applied a good amount of solder to that point. Put everything back together and turn it on. . . Problem fixed. The compressor kicked on right away and started cooling the refrigerator.

Looking at the schematic I found in the back of the unit, it appeared that there were not many parts associated with the problem. I removed the Overload/PTC and run Capacitor as a single unit. Although the capacitor was listed as the most likely problem part I decided to order both items since small particles of non-ferous material were falling out of the Overload/PTS plastic case. I installed both parts as a unit and plugged the refrigerator in. The compressor did not come on so I figured that there were other problems. After about 15 minutes I returned to the unit and found it running. It is now quieter than it has ever been. I now feel that the defective part was the Overload/PTC unit and not the capacitor.

Not knowing anything about a refrigerator it was hard to find the source of the noise. Once I could isolate it we googled the appliance repair and found the video from Parts Select and the rest was a piece of cake. Saved a service call and bloated parts prices. Thank you Parts Select!!!

Just follow the instructions from the Youtube, the link to the video is included in the sheet coming with the part. It was easy to take the entire compartment out as instructed, however, after replace the old motor with the new one, it took more than 20 min to put the entire compartment back after trying different ways. It has been working greatly since it was repaired.