MRSC22KRAD General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

This repair replaced two riser cams - one attached to the bottom fridge hinge and one attached to the bottom of the door. The two cams
mate together. So, don't just buy one cam, buy two.
1. Removed all contents off the inside of the door as well as the bins.
2. Unscrewed single screw holding plastic cover over top hinge.
3. Unscrewed 2 screws holding top hinge to the top of the door and removed the top hinge.
4. Pulled door up and off bottom hinge and layed
on floor.
5. Removed plastic grill on bottom of fridge.
6. Removed 2 screws holding bottom hinge in place.
7. Using a vice to hold the hinge, I used a hacksw to cut through the rivet holding the riser cam to the hinge plate.
8. Used a small bolt & nut to secure the new riser cam to the hinge plate.
9. Reattached hinge plate to the bottom of the fridge.
10. On bottom of the door remove two screws holding riser cam to door.
11. Position new riser cam in place and reattach to bottom of door.
NOTE: on my door, the metal SHIM that goes between the cam riser & door was also broken. I ordered the replacement SHIM but it turned out to be made of PAPER. So, I didn't bother putting it on. If the riser cam wears out again, I'll just replace it again.
12. Put door back on and secure the top hinge to the top of the fridge and you're done.

Shut off water and disconnected at factory joint at bottom hinge. Unplugged the electrical at the top hinge. Removed the door and installed new bottom hinge and cam assembly. Reinstalled the door and hooked water and electric back up. Part worked fine.

removed old parts and installed new. went smooth

We took the drawers out unsrewed the slide rails, screwed the new ones back on and replaced the drawers. the door cam was alittle harder because we had to lift the door to put it in but it still took under 10 min. altogether it took about 25 minutes. I am also planning on buying a few more parts from the company so I will end up paying about $50 to fix a fridge that I got for free. WHAT A GREAT DEAL!!!!!

I supported door with 2* 6 scrap wood. I used cedar shingles to raise door to correct height.
Using a socket wrench, I removed the hinge from the fridge and the cam assembly from the door.
I installed the new hinge and cam using the shims thatwere behind the original parts.
I removed the 2*6 supports and the door now works perfectly.

There is no access to the inside of the door to replace the water line. I was able to insert a 1/4" drip line barbed connector into the old line at the base of the door and then connect that to a piece of the plastic tubing which I then connected back to the original water supply tubing with the 5/16" union. It took three attempts to get the tubing through the bottom hinge without a crimp in it. It's best to have a second person to hold the door while you "fish" the tubing through the hinge.

When it was discovered there was a cooling problem in the refrigerator, I went to parts select web site and went through the troubleshooting section. Then I tested the defrost timer and the defrost element as directed by the web site. I then found out doing this, that is was the defrost timer. I ordered the part online and it was delivered THE NEXT DAY! I removed the bottom panel of the fridge, removed the screw holding the old timer, removed the wires, and reversed the procedure to install the new one. It has been 1 week, and everything is working great. Thank you PartSelect.
I have since then recommended you to a relative who was having the same problem. Thanks again.

All I did was take the old bucket out,, which had been frozen to the base, and I had to thaw out, by turning the refrigarater off , and use a hair dryer to melt the ice, after that I unscreewed the outer face of the old bucket, and replsced it to the new bucket

Once I received the New part, I simply removed the old one, unscrew the door assembly off of the old one and reinstall it on the new one using only 4 screws. Then simply pluged in the New Ice Bucket. If it were any easier, My Kids would have done it.

Tube was too short so I used the union to attach additional tubing to reach the valve at the lower rear of refrigerator

Lets start with the hard part:
Convince wife to get a couple of her girl friends
to go to a movie and see the Reader,after that
visit a cafe or pub (remembered years ago the
English Patient). Drove to get a six pack,removed the back panel-2 min, set a hair drier to position,
had a couple beers , removed the defrost heater unit
1 min. replaced it 1 min. back panel1 min,enjoyed the rest of the afternoon,finished the beer
Killed two birds with one stone
Zoltan L Petho

Removing gasket by pulling it back to expose 1/4" screws and replacing with the new one was easy. What was a HORROR- was that the new gasket doesn't seal against the door properly, and door doesn't want to close at all. to remedy this we had to put packing tape along the outer portion of the gasket all along the door to hold it donw, in order for the door to close. This is "possibly" becuase I overtightended the screws that hold the metal brace that holds down the gasket. Don't make this mistake and if you do, packing tape is the answer.

Removed old hinge assembly, bolted on new assembly-door shut like new

1. Unplug refrigerator or flip breaker to kill power to the refrigerator.
2. With hands, gently pull the bottom lip of the 3" X 11" face plate panel above the dispenser head.
3. Remove the 4 screws that are under the removed panel.
4. Tip the assemby down to reveal 2 plugs.
5. Gently pull the 2 plugs to disconnect.
6. Open the assembly to reveal the solenoid.
7. There are 3 screws at the base of the solenoid. The center screw attaches to the green ground wire.
8. Remove the three screws.
9. Observe: The bracket at the top of the solenoid unit tucks behind a 4th screw above the solenoid. You may need to loosen this screw to relesae the solenoid.
10.Unplug the yellow and red connector to the solenoid. It should not be totally free to remove.
11. Put the plunger into the solenoid. Note that the plunger has an opening to insert the white plastic trigger for the trap door. Make sure the trigger is inserted into this opening before reassembling.
12. Plug the yellow and red connector into the new solenoid.
13. Position the new solenoid to match the screw holes. The bracket at the top of the solenoid tucks under the 4th screw. Tighten as necessary.
14. Insert the green ground wire into the middle screw hole at the base of the solenoid and tighten.
15. Insert the two screws to either side of the ground wire and tighten.
16. Gently reconnect the two plugs.
17. Tip the assembly back into place making sure the trap door and hoses are lined up correctly.
18. Replace the 4 screws.
19. Snap the face plate back into place.
20. Turn on the power and give it a try!

I used other instructions provided by customers on the website. They were very useful.

This is the second time we replaced this unit. The first replacement failed within the one-year warranty period. I called customer service and they had a replacement part and refund for the previous part on its way immediately. Excellent service!

It was very simple, took out the slide rails and took a screwdriver and assembled. My wife was very pleased to have these drawers in working order once again.