GFRF2KBYHWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplug the refrigerator. Pull all shelves out of the freezer. Remove light bulb shield and light bulb. Remove the two hex head screws on either side of the light bulb. Wiggle out the back wall. It is a tight sqeeze, but can be done. Locate the sensor on the top of the coils. It is held on by a simple clip. Wiggle the sensor and twist a little to take it off. Take wire cutters and cut the two wires into the sensor near the sensor to allow lots of room to splice in the new sensor. Strip about a quarter inch of wires left in the freezer. Use some sort of wire connectors, like twist caps, which will allow you to connect the two wires to the new sensor. Make sure to match the colors. I used shrink tube and line connectors. Once you have the new wires spliced together and protected with either shrink tube or electrical tape, tuck the excess wire out of the way and attach the new sensor. This is easily done by slight pressure on the sensor with the tube in between the clip and sensor. Make sure the wires are tuck out of the way and reassemble the freezer panel, light bulb, and shelves in the reverse order.

i took out back frame and cleared off the ice on the metal condenser. I cut wires from old thermostat and removed it. Stripped new wires and attached to the wires in the frig. We taped it with electrical tape and put it back and closed it up. it works beautifully! We watched a video on youtube and that helped a great deal!

I followed the instructional video. It was right on the money for accuracy in terms of part location and method of replacement.

All the rest of everyone's post are all what I did. The only other thing I recommend is to put the back panel over the evaporator coils when your done. I replaced defrost thermostat, and heater. Once I initially completed it it kept icing over more than usual. You have to put the back panel back on so airflow goes over the coils.

My Ge top freezer fefrigerator was going into defrost mode and the heater was staying on for too long causing the food to thaw and eventually refreeze. Originally thought it was the mother board but after researching and do some troubleshooting of my own I realized the defrost terminating thermostat was bad. $8 part from Parts Select. Accessed the evaporator by removing back wall plate. Located thermostat and cut two lead wires to it. Spliced in new thermostat and reattached to eveaporator. Refrigerator seems to be good as new. There is an installation video on the web page that shows you step by step proceedure.

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

Looking at the schematic I found in the back of the unit, it appeared that there were not many parts associated with the problem. I removed the Overload/PTC and run Capacitor as a single unit. Although the capacitor was listed as the most likely problem part I decided to order both items since small particles of non-ferous material were falling out of the Overload/PTS plastic case. I installed both parts as a unit and plugged the refrigerator in. The compressor did not come on so I figured that there were other problems. After about 15 minutes I returned to the unit and found it running. It is now quieter than it has ever been. I now feel that the defective part was the Overload/PTC unit and not the capacitor.

We used partselect troubleshooting appilication to figure out what was most likely causing the problem and what part would fix it. The suggested part was the freezer's defrost thermostat and the probability that this would fix it was 52%! The diagnosis made sense because when we emptied the freezer to see the part, the coils were frozen solid with a thick layer of ice. We thawed the ice and the refrigerator worked fine for a day and a half at which point the ice was back and the refrigerator was warm again. We ordered the part. It came in 2 days. We snipped two wires and removed the old part, twisted the wires of the new one in place, taped it up and it worked! Fast, easy, cheep! $8 For the part, about the same for shipping and no $70 service call. Selectparts is bookmarked for "house repair"!

Removed rer cover, unplugged starter assembly from side of compressor and replaced unit with a new one. Plugged fridge in and it works good.

removed shelves and rear panel. cut wires, spliced in new part used wire nuts and filled wire nuts with silicone, replaced back panel and shelving

Removed the interior shelves and set screw which holds the light cover in place. Next I removed the four screws that hold the back panel in place. Located the defrost thermostat and removed it from the aluminum tubing by unclipping it, just as it was illustrated in the repair video. Cut the wires and stripped the ends and then connected them to the ends of the new defrost thermostat. Connected them together with an 16-14 gauge crimp style end cap. Taped the entry point into the end cap to reduce moisture penetration. Reassembled the back panel, light cover and shelves.

I identified the noise was coming from the coils / and the fan. Cleaning the fan helped reduce the noise a bit but it still kept recurring. I ordered the part, which was really easy using the diagram on the website. The instructions and the video were really helpful and was able to remove the old motor and replace it with the new one with relative ease. While there I cleaned the fan blade and vacuumed the surrounding area. This whole repair went quite smoothly and has given me the confidence to take on other repairs before calling out the repairman.

I replaced the thermostat, temperature sensor, and the run capacitor. . . Refrigerator still not cooling. I checked the start relay and measured the input terminals on the compressor for the correct resistance. . . Everything measured correctly. In a last ditch effort before calling for service, I pulled the main board, inspected it and saw the problem right away. One leg on the compression capacitor had desoldered itself. Got out my soldering iron and applied a good amount of solder to that point. Put everything back together and turn it on. . . Problem fixed. The compressor kicked on right away and started cooling the refrigerator.

watch you tube demo how to do it.