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GTL22JBPARBS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

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All Instructions for the GTL22JBPARBS
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Customer:
Bryan from Las Vegas, NV
Parts Used:
WR60X10220
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers
condenser fan was noisy ( squeaking)
Not knowing anything about a refrigerator it was hard to find the source of the noise. Once I could isolate it we googled the appliance repair and found the video from Parts Select and the rest was a piece of cake. Saved a service call and bloated parts prices. Thank you Parts Select!!!
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Customer:
Troy from Dacula, GA
Parts Used:
WR55X10025
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Socket set
Food section of fridge always warm
Located temperature sensor on condenser in the freezer section( as per instructional video ). Cut off bad sensor with wire cutter then soldered on the new sensor and sealed with electrical shrink wrap.
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Customer:
Paul from Brooksville, ME
Parts Used:
WR60X10257
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Fan motor was really loud and whining
Empty the contents of the freezer.Take out the one shelf.Remove the plastic pieces covering the fan and evaporator removing 2 screws with the nut driver.Remove the metal back using the nut driver(2 screws)Remove the fan assembly from the back of the freezer.(4 screws)Remove the green ground wire from the fan assembly(1 screw) Take the fan assembly out of the freezer and remove the old fan(2 screws) and reinstall the new fan.Assemble the parts in the reverse order .Very simple and intuitive for anyone who is "handy" at all.
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Customer:
Guojie from Gainesville, FL
Parts Used:
WR60X10220
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Wrench set
noise from the condebser fan moter
Just follow the instructions from the Youtube, the link to the video is included in the sheet coming with the part. It was easy to take the entire compartment out as instructed, however, after replace the old motor with the new one, it took more than 20 min to put the entire compartment back after trying different ways. It has been working greatly since it was repaired.
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Customer:
Michelle from Chimacum, WA
Parts Used:
WR55X10025
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers
fridge to warm
followed part select video instructions
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Customer:
TIMOTHY from SPRING VALLEY, CA
Parts Used:
WR60X10220
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
no ice being produced & on Hot point dbl sided frig panel between freezer & frig very warm
Water still came out the front when pressed, but no ice. After removing the Ice container, & the top shelf I noted the icemake inlet was iced over. I turned off the icemaker, turned down the freezer temp, & allowed Ice to melt, but problem returned. I next removed the back bottom cover & cleaned the condenser coils, & drain pan; they were extremely dirty. Then I noticed the condensor fan was not on. After getting the nomenclature plate info off the condenser fan motor I left the back cover off, & put an external fan to blow on the coils as a temporaty fix until I could get the part & replace it. During that time the refrig functioned normally. 3 days later my condenser fan motor I ordered from Parts Select arrived & I installed it.
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Customer:
John from Island Lake, IL
Parts Used:
WR55X10025
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
frige too cold
changed sensors did not repair problem,replaced damper with mechanical damper fixed problem.
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Customer:
Brandon from Bruceton Mills, WV
Parts Used:
WR55X10025
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Defroster stopped working and iced up evaporator coil
I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.
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Customer:
Dennis from Oak Lawn, IL
Parts Used:
WR60X10257, WR02X12008
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Very nosiy fa
I removed the ice marker first and took the back panel off using a nut driver. Be careful I had wires tied to the back panel, so I moved it like opening a door, right to left. The I removed the fan motor. Be careful not to damage the fan blades. I took the fan blades off and the dust cover. The dust cover was very tight. I had to use a very small screw driver to get it off. When I put the dust cover on the new motor I did not push it down tight. I turned the spindle of the new motor to make sure it turned. The put everything back. Turned it on and it worked. I put the ice marker on last. Take a note of how far the fan blades are on the spindle. The refrigerator now turns off more often.
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Customer:
Zhinga W. from Blountville, TN
Parts Used:
WR60X10205, WR02X12149, WR02X12008, WR02X11331, WR14X10127, WR14X10123, WR02X10540, WR02X10322
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Thumping whinning noise in upper part of freezer section of 2 door refridgerater
I removed the ice maker, and removed the upper plastic covers, that just snap in and out of their locations, you can then see the evaporator fan blades. then I removed 2 hex screws, located in the top corners, holding a metal cover in place,lifting up from the bottom of the cover and slowly pulling it out of the freezer compartment. I can now see the screws holding the evaporator fan motor in place. Unplug the connector wiring to the motor and unclip the ground wire from the frame, It is easier to replace the fan blade,lid bumpers, dust cap,grommets, and fan motor this way. while you have everything in easy access, I took time to clean everything and replaced the foam strips, assure tight fit causing excellent air flow, when operating. the cause of the whining and knocking noise, was worn out grommets and bearing going bad in the motor. I reassembled everything in reverse order, being very careful not to get cut or burnt on the fins and tubing in the back of the freezer. Do not drop any thing down the drains while removing and /or reassembling, those items will cause lots of havoc to the lower fan and motor for the refrigerator, lay a towel in the bottom when you start working on it.. I then plugged it back up and there was on noise, works great.
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Customer:
stephen from vernon, AL
Parts Used:
WR50X10071
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
fridge stoped cooling
unplug fridge! removed ice maker. removed the back panel in frezer. I uncliped thermostat; cut wires on thermostat and installed new thermostat.
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Customer:
Andenet from Haymarket, VA
Parts Used:
WR60X10220
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Fan and housing cannot be removed together.
On partselects video the gentleman removes the fan and housing in one piece. This is a great idea but does not work on this brand of ge. I removed the fan housing screw as instructed but left it in place and swiveled it enough to access the retaining screws with a socket driver. Over all swap of the fan was seamless and the video is a gem. Andy
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Customer:
Kevin from York, PA
Parts Used:
WR60X10220, WR60X10207
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Freezer not cold, Frig cold enough, runs all the time, Hot to touch in spots.
My compressor fan that blows over the coils was not spinning. I measured 120 VAC going to the fan so I knew it should have been spinning but wasn't. Took fan motor out and took it apart and super lubed the motor to get it spinning again temporarily until I could get the new one in. Put new one in and has been working for about 10 days now. Freezer is not below 0 deg F which is what you want. Frig is below 40 deg F also what you want.
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Customer:
Vincent from Lyndhurst, NJ
Parts Used:
WR02X12149, WR02X12008, WR02X10540
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Unusual noise from freezer.
Replaced above parts and the noise problem was not resolved. Ordered a new motor, fan blade and another set of grommets from PartSelect. The parts were delivered the next day. Took me about 15 minutes to swap the new parts in. It's been 3 days since the repair and the noise has not returned.
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Customer:
David from BLOOMINGTON, IN
Parts Used:
WR17X11970
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
There were no fasteners (like a screw) that could be unscrewed to remove and replace the center glide to the frame it hangs from
After removing all the parts, the bins and a large glass fitted shelf or lid, on top of the two crisper bins I then removed the whole frame the three glides are mounted to. The frame is molded into one large piece matching the whole horizontal space of the refrigerator, so it is wiggled loose from its space. I lifted out the whole thing and placed it on a surface on which I could work while see everything I was doing. With no screw (both top and bottom of the U-shaped gripper “clevis” end are solid) or other type fastener that could be removed I finally just pried the "clevis" of the center glide that grips the front of the frame. This clevis grips a set of small plastic studs that fit into matching round indentations in the top and bottom of the clevis jaws. It’s necessary to keep the stud from slipping back into the first indentation while opening up the other side of the jaw so that both are free at the same time and the clevis will slide sideways. Using a butter knife because it was a good fit and stiff enough, I released the top, and then the bottom using the knife to bend it a little bit. The clevis opens up just enough to allow the edge of the frame it’s gripping to be released from its grip. The new one is put back in exactly the same manner but in reverse. The opposite end from the clevis simply tilts up until it can be disengage and reengaged in the same manner
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All Instructions for the GTL22JBPARBS
121 - 135 of 179