34221-3 General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Open freezer
Pry the switch out (bottom first, then push the tab on top while prying out)
Move wires to
New switch
Push switch in
Test

Removed ice bucket from freezer. Remove ice. Remove 2 phillips head screws from the inside front of ice bucket, and 2 fromt the bottom front to remove the front cover. Remove the E clip and washer from ice crusher shaft. Remove 4, 1/4” head screws from ice crusher housing. Unclip the selector shaft from crusher door paying attention to position.Slide housing off of shaft and discard. Install new housing over shaft and install the 4 screws. Install selector shaft into door. Install the E clip and washer onto shaft. Install front housing with the 4 screws previously removed. Refill bucket with ice and install bucket back into freezing taking care to orient the ice screw shaft into the cog in the back of the freezer as well as the door selection shaft. Test operation.

The repair went easily after watching the video, took me less than an hour to complete the repair.

Remove ice drawer ,Removed front of drawer 4 screws ,Removed broken crusher 3 screws Ordered new parts reassembled replaced fix blade spacer that was broken and blade cover housing reattached front of drawer !

Remove the food items from the shelves on the door, Phillips screwdriver to take the top cap off. Adjustable wrench to take the two screws off the top hinge. Lift out the door and set aside. Remove two bolts from the lower hinge, reinstall with the new hinge and spacer. Reinstall door on lower hinge. Lift into place to reattach the upper hinge. Put the food back in and you're done.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

I followed the instructions, my ONLY issue was about the Part 46 the Ice Dispenser Actuator Rod. The front of the arm has flared out grooves and it didn't warn me about making sure the rod is properly aligned thru part 23 Front Plate or else when the ice maker actuates the rod it will not move properly if the grooves are not aligned on each side of the Front panel. I hope you can understand what I mean, if not just look at how the Part 46 rests in Part 23

Called "local" repair warehouse and ordered part. They shipped the wrong part. Went on-line to Part Select and got the right part.

I was able to replace the housing by only removing the front cover, the e-ring and washer and the 3 hex-head screws. I was able to work the old housing around to get the actuator arm off and then get it properly inserted into the new housing. Attach the new housing, IMPORTANT: make sure you get the fixed-blades and spacer assembly in the slot of the housing that holds them in place, replace the e-ring and washer, check that the actuator arm operates the door properly and replace the front cover. The videos can be helpful but these shortcuts will save some time.

I received the part and slid it down the molded runner and secured it.

Followed the video for this repair. Only issue was that the videos showed that when the front panel is removed, there is a wire harness that has to be unplugged from part No. 38c. This was not the case. What I had was a Ribbon Cable Harness that plugged into the front of part No. 38 and the top of part 38C (the two power boards) I tried to disconnect it from part 38C by pulling it out, and apparently damaged the Ribbon Cable Harness. Later found a video showing how to remove this item properly when replacing power boards 38 and 38C. Have ordered a new cable from GRP and hopefully this will solve the problem, as there is no electrical current to the dispenser controls and the ice and water dispenser are not currently working. Would have been nice to know that there are two types of connections between these power boards; a cable harness that unplugs from 38C or a Ribbon Cable Harness that unplugs from from the face of part No. 38. Hopefully I have not damaged either of the boards or anything else. Professional repair man coming on Thursday to test the boards, micro switches, etc. The boards are quite pricey, ($550.00 for both) and since the refrigerator was manufactured in 2004, we will buy a new one before we pump any more into this older unit. Very important to know how to unplug this Ribbon Cable Harness from the boards before proceeding ! Plug in on 38C is very tricky and you will need to review a video showing how it is done.

BOUGHT NEW ICEMAKER TOOK TWO SCREWS OUT, UNPLUGGED THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTION. REMOVED OLD ICEMAKER, PUT TWO SCREWS BACK INTO REFRIGERATOR(DON'T SCREW ALL THE WAY IN AS THE NEW ICE MAKER WILL FIT ON. HOOK ELECTRICAL CONNECTION AND ADAPTER (THAT COMES WITH IT). PUT THE DRAIN TUBE IN ITS SPOT, HOOK ICE MAKER ONTO THE TWO SCREWS TIGHTEN EM DOWN. I DID THIS RIGHT BEFORE I WENT TO A BIRTHDAY DINNER WITH MY HUSBAND, WAS ALREADY DRESSED AND READY TO GO AND I TOLD HIM ILL PUT IT IN SO WE CAN HAVE ICE WHEN WE RETURN. ENDED UP BEING A SURPRISE PARTY FOR ME AND WHEN WE RETURNED WE HAD ICE. IT WAS SO EASY EVEN A GIRL CAN DO IT!!

First I determined the icemaker was the problem when it was no longer calling for water. You can hear that "whistle" for 6-7 seconds when it calls for water. Anyway, replacement was a piece of cake, but did not entirely fix my problem. I also had to flush the lines to the soloniods that allow water to flow through the filter and into the water storage tank because it was cloggged with a little piece of plastic.

followed instructions on your video.. PERFECT and easy.

just followed the instructions