GSR23YBTASS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

On this fridge, you MUST take out the ice maker. First took out the shelves. Then take out the ice maker. This is done by taking out the four screws on the side that hold the assembly containing the bulb. Then there is one screw that holds that assembly to the icemaker. Do not take out any other screws, this is a mistake I made that cost me a few more hours figuring out how to get the other parts to mount correctly to the assembly containing the bulb. The icemaker should lift right out once the white plus is unplugged from the assembly that holds the light. Then took out the shelf brackets and finally could remove rear panel. Found it all iced up as others have. Took 1.5 hours to manually defrost while using sponges to sop up all the water that would run into the drain if you let it. Was about a gallon of water so using sponges worked well. Heater was open when checked with a meter, but you could tell it was blown by the way it looked. All cloudy. Put things back in reverse order. Had an issue with the icemaker shooting water out and missing the icemaker. Eventually was able to align better. This fridge had also just stopped dispensing water. I think the lines may have been frozen in the back, because one day after defrosting manually, the water dispenser started working again Overall this took about 4 hours. But a few days later, the water dispenser again stopped working. Not sure about that one. I have a valve already that I will try for this issue but somehow I don't think its the valve.

As it turned out much of the electronics is driven by 13.5 volts off the Main Control Board. The Ice Dispenser caused the problem because it over currented the depleted board power. You could hear a clicking noise from the board which was the main relay short cycling and not staying energized. While waiting for the replacement board I unpluged the condenser fan which is a DC motor and uses the Board power. In place of that fan I use a small table top fan to keep the condenser cool. As it turned out I only needed it for 3 days because Parts Select did a super quick job of delivering the new board. Thanks for the super service!!!!!! Removal of the board only required unpluging the electrical connections squezing the retaining board pins with pliers and pulling the board out, pushing on the new board and connecting the electrical plugs. If the board locks like mine did, just unplug the main board power plug, let the memory clear and replug the power plug. The unit should then start and run with no problems.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

1. Removed all food, shelves, and ice bin from freezer compartment.
2. Removed freezer light hood and unscrewed freezer bulb.
3. Removed rear evaporator cover panel (2 Phillip’s screws, 2 hex screws).
4. Melted ice on coils with hair blow dryer (needed bath towels to collected water).
5. Removed old defrost heater (2 Phillips screws, 2 plug-ins).
6. New heater connected without any adjustments.
7. Replaced evaporator cover ice bin, shelves and food.

I received part. I then used a hair dryer to smooth out kinks. Took about 15 minutes. Pulled off old gasket and replaced with new one. Used hands only.

I watched the on live video. Piece of cake!

I had to remove 2 screws to get the broken door stop off then I put the new door stop on by using the 2 same screws.

Raised side of fridge enough to get 1/4" ratchet with 1/4" socket under roller wheel assy. Removed three hex-head screws to separate damaged wheel assy from fridge frame. From panel below fridge compartment, backed-out stripped leveling screw. Mounted new roller assy and then threaded in new leveling screw from front. Lowered fridge and adjusted leveling screw for proper height. Suggest putting a 2x4 under fridge for safety when hands are under unit.

First, we called Sears Repair and had a technician come to our home. He stated the motherboard had gone bad probably due to a power surge (we had no surge protector on the appliance). His price for repair was $465.00. We opted to go online for the part and found it for $165.00 through PartSelect.com. It was a very simple procedure of removing the old and installing the new. A few turns with the nut driver to uncover the part, a few tugs with the pliers to disconnect and voila!.. The fridge was back to cooling in no time.

The trouble shooting information on the web site indicated that the damper door within the climate control unit may be broken. This was easily confirmed and the replacement of the climate control unit immediately returned the food locker temperatures to the digital electronic thermostat settings. The part has an improved ventilation gasket interface between the food locker and freezer. The unit works perfectly again, and the food locker temperature is exactly what the thermostat setting is.

It was a simple remove and replace. The new part fits directly in place of the old part. Its a pain to remove the light but once you get the light out the job is simple. The light must be pried out gently. It is snapped in place toward the air inlet cover and needs to be pried loose. Once the light is out there are 4 screws holding the air inlet cover in place. Remove the 4 screws and unfasten the wiring harness. Once the screws and wiring harness are disconnected remove the old part. Reinstall the new part in reverse order.

Emptied the door bin, removed it from its slots, and gently spread the plastic bin sides allowing the broken face panel to fall out. Replaced one end in the notches, gently widened the opening at the other end to slide the new face panel in, and jiggled just a little to seat the panel fully. Done!

Only tool I used was 1/4 inch socket. Using the 1/4 inch socket, the screws were removed from the panel covering the control board. (this is on the back in the lower right corner). When this panel is off you are looking at the control board. Next remove all the plug in connectors. Don't worry about remembering where they go. They all are different and can only go in their specific place. After removing the connectors, pull the board out. Replace the plug in connectors before putting the new board back in , then snap the board back into place.(held in by four pins). Replace the cover.

first i removed the three screws that covered the circuit board that was bad. then i removed the 6 connectors that went from the refrigerator to the board then popped out the old board , popped in the new board reconnected the circuit connectors covered everything back up and my refrigerator is back on line. this all took about 10 to 15 minutes time ... thank you for your product it really did the job..

Everything looked to be working but the compressor. As a pro checked every thing came down to a relay on the main board.

Just removed cover from back top left. marked and removed all wires. removed old board and installed new board very easy. Must read paper sent with it,
you may need to cut wires on some models.