PSRS6YGZADSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Fairly simple fix. You must first uplug refrigerator, then take off the inside freeze door panel, approx. 25 screws. Then you must take out the trap door assembly approx. 6 six screws. Pop off the LED panel, requires the use of a flat blade screw driver to pop it off. Remove solenold by removing 3 screws, replace with new solenold.

Both GE manufacturer's part number for ice maker (WR30X10093) and the equivalent part number (PS1993870) were cross referenced to the Profile Side by Side Stainless Steel Refrigerator. (PSSS3RGXDSS) to be compatible. When the parts came there were two parts that were not the same as those on my old ice maker. The directions told me to remove the slider from my old ice maker, then remove the same part from the new ice maker. Then you were to install the old part into the new ice maker!! This happened with another parts as well. Why do you pay to buy something new only to use the old parts for assembly!! The directions were very unclear and the diagram very poorly labeled. The next problem was getting the new ice maker into the freezer. Almost impossible, I finally did it but it resulted in putting dents into the freezer wall. Also,when taking out the old ice maker it was almost impossible to disconnect the wire as well as to remove two parts. I had to use pliers to yank them out. Lucky no major damage. It's so annoying, they show these procedures to be so easy on YouTube videos.They must have everything prepared in advance to make it looks so easy on the video.

I have not yet done the repair. After watching this repair video two problems came to mind. First I only ordered one grommet not knowing that there were two (or more I don't yet know). The second problem is that this video must be for a fridge from like the 1940, but it looks NOTHING like mine from 2008. The manual shows a bazillion parts and frankly I'm just a wee bit afraid to get started, and I am generally very handy, buuuttttttttt I don't know about this one

The model we have, the front panel snaps into place. It was removed for access and the electrical connectors unplugged. Four screws and the chute assembly was removed. Removing three screws and opening the chute door allowed the solenoid assembly to be removed without removing the door assembly. All parts and area were cleaned and the assemmbly was the process in reverse.
Guideline to prolong recurrance: always put ice into glass first to reduce splashing of ice falling into liquids causing the solenoid armature to rust and stick.

The ice shute frosted up after the selonoid rusted. 1: Small flat screwdrvier to pop off control panel
2: phillips screwdriver to remove 4 screws to control backing plate.
3: Phillips screwdirver to remove seloniod and flap door.
4: replace selonoid, flap door, spring and crank door. Consider replacing screws due to rust.

I would replace all these parts at one time to save on shipping as any of them could cause the frosting. THe shipping is more than most parts! VERY EASY and QUICK!

We followed the instructions we found on this site.

First we unplugged the refrigerator.

Then we removed the control panel that has the ice type selection on it by releasing the three spring latches. These are accessible from the bottom of the panel looking up toward the ice dispenser. There are three holes. Press a narrow screwdriver or punch in each of these holes and then pull out the control panel. (Be careful not to disconnect the wires, but observe how the wires are routed.)

Then we removed the ice tube cover that covers the solenoid assembly. There were four screws. One was very rusty and it required some WD40 to loosen it. Once the cover was removed the solenoid was visible on the right. (It has a floating component that attaches to the "arm" of the flap. This is how the solenoid opens and closes the flap. The flap needs to close properly so ice does not build up in the door.)

There were three screws that had to be removed to get the solenoid out. (The top one you may just need to loosen once the bottom two are removed.) When the solenoid was removed we also removed the old floating component from the flap are and replace it with the new one. We slid this into the solenoid hole and then screw it in with the three screws.

Before we attached everything, we plugged in the refrigerator to test the solenoid. We dispensed some ice and waited to hear the flap close. (The flap close is slightly delayed so be patient.)

We attached the cover that was over the solenoid being careful to route the wires as they were when we started. We test the solenoid again. Then we snapped the control panel back into place and tested again.

We found that having the right size screwdriver made a difference especially dealing with rusty screws. It was also handy to have a good flashlight. Having extra hands was helpful to hold the control panel and cover while working on the solenoid and routing the wires.

I followed the video provided, and followed the advice of bill from cleveland hts. ohio, and did not have to remove the trim to access everything. The video made it so simple, a monkey could have learned how in 5 minutes. Thank you very much for all the help on this website. I will recommend it to all.

Removed access panel on freezer door, removed circuit board, removed and replaced solenoid, reinstalled previously removed parts

I followed the instructions posted by previous custmers and they were accurate and simple

no instructions came with the part so I wrote for help from your techs. They were able to tell me how to access the solenoid. From there I was able to figure the rest out. I had to remove the trim, electrical board, flap, springs and arm to reach the screws necessary to remove the solenoid. I removed some of the corrosion with a baking soda paste so I could remove the screws. I carefully noted each step and position of the parts I removed and reversed the process to put things back after replacing the solenoid.

Pulled ice tub, removed auger rotation motor and solenoid housing, removed solenoid and replaced with new one and reinstalled. Checked solenoid was working by holding freezer door open and closing switch to door an activating ice switch-- solenoid picked up. Put ice tub with auger back into freezer.

First remove trim surrounding ice/water dispenser assembly. Use a flat spackle knife to obtain space between door and trim. Be careful not t scratch refrigerator door. Then pry trim off. This was the most difficult part of repair. The front plate of the dispenser is held to the back of the dispenser by two friction fastners and in the case of my refrigerator a phillips screw (some don't have screw in middle). Use a small round tool like an allen wrench to push up on the 2 fastners to release them. Next push the front assembley aside and remove the 4 screws holding the back part of the dispenser. Push that assembly aside. Remove the defective solenoid assembly by removing the 3 mounting screws. The solenoid base can be worked out by slipping it out of the solenoid assembly plunger still attached to the dispenser door assembly. Next slide the plunger off of the dispenser door assembly. Install new solenoid assembly by reversing this procedure.
Hint - I found the ice door assembly (wr17x11653) also needed replacement and it is well worth the effort to replace both at the same time.

Followed the on line video. Clear, concise & easy. Thanks.

Found a step by step video on YouTube made replacement very easy. Cubed ice is back. Time for a cocktail to celebrate!

Very easy with small screw driver . Carefully pry broken switch out pull off two connectors install new switch connect as before . Unplug refer 1st . Works great . Refrigerator will not work with bad switch