PSRS6YGZADSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

First I removed the shelving from the refrigerator side I then removed the cover to the refrigerator condenser which consisted of a plastic cover and a styrofoam inner chamber cover. The Condenser is held in place with two stainless phillips head screws. I removed the screws and gently pulled the condenser forward so that the Drain pan could be easily removed. The drain pan is made out of thin sheet metal with a galvanized coating that will not hold up it will start rusting in a short time. I inspected the drain pan cleaned it up with a little Muretic acid and it had too many rust holes so I couldn't repair it. I ordered a new Drain pan on Part Select and when it came in I washed it and dried it completely then I sprayed it with Cold Galvanizing compound with zinc particles. You can get this from Home Depot on the spray paint isle. Hopefully the spray Galvanizing will keep it from rusting in the future and leaking inside the refrigerator. The Trough Drain Pan should have been made of Stainless sheet metal or plastic I don't really know why they used the galvanized coated pan. Everything went back together in reverse with no problems. Hopefully this drain pan will last longer than the first drain pan because it was only 4 years old. I remember when the older refrigerators would run for decades.

This story starts with a GE side-by-side refrigerator that has always had wide temperature swings and a temperamental water dispenser. The ice maker was not making ice, and the built in digital thermometer showed it was running warm. I suspected that the heat exchanger was full of dust and so looked there. What I found was that the condenser tank was hot to the touch and the fan wasn’t running. As an experiment, I aimed a fan at the it for a while I saw that the freezer temperature dropped back to normal.
.The fan is marked as 11.2 DC so I checked for voltage at the fan and found some. With three wires and no wiring diagram I wasn’t sure this answered all the questions, but hooking the fan to a 12 volt power supply didn’t get it to spin.
I priced parts at a couple websites before using partselect.com . They also have a good diagram to look at (Sears diagrams are really poor). I ordered the part with 2-day shipping; it arrived on time, was correct and fixed the problem.

Removed rear and front grills,brushed and vacuumed area- probably caused the fan motor to fail- unplugged fan, removed fan,motor,and shroud in 1 piece, carefully slipped fan off motor shaft, unscrewed shroud and motor. assembled in reverse order. Frige is in tight area, .I'll now roll it out and clean often

we just pried out the old switch and pulled it out the rest of the way with a pair of needle nose pliers. Pulled off the wires on the broken switch and reattached to the new one and just slid/clicked it back into the hole.

The old filter twists out and the new one twists in. The hardest part was bleeding off water thru the dispenser to make sure all the air was out of the line.

Unplug the refrigerator
Front cover of ice dispenser snaps off. Remove the 4 screws from the ice chute. Unplug the control module that opens the ice chute. Leave hanging while removing the 4 screws that hold the solenoid in place.(one is a ground wire...note location before taking apart). Unplug the two wires to the solenoid.
To install the new solenoid put the plunger in place and at the same time hook on the trip arm of the clapper door of the ice chute. Plug in the two wires to the new solenoid
Replace the 4 screws.
Plug in the Control modules and screw back in place
Plug in the refrigerator. Do a trial test.
Replace the cover

Removed the ice bin and maker, then removed cover from the rear that covered the solenoid that controls the dispensing mechanism. Replace solenoid. The tricky part here is that there is a styrofoam cover around the solenoid pin that needs to be superglued into place and oriented properly during replacement. All electrical feeds snap out neatly and are easily replaced. Reassemble ice dispenser and bin, and viola, your back in business.

I bought all new GE Profile Stainless Appliances about 3 years ago. We love the features, but find the plastic parts (milk shelf, cripser drawers, fronts/pulls for freezer baskets) keep breaking....not happy. Quick ice is a fabulous feature though! Anyway, thank goodness for partselect. I can order the replacement parts I need and install them myself quickly and with no tools so far. Their delivery is always prompt too.

First I removed the face plate by lightly prying . Once removed noticed 4 screws. Removing the screws allows you to gain access to the two plugs, one for the solenoid and the other for the switch that energizes the solenoid . Unplug the connectors and carefully lower the piece enough to reach the 3 screws that hold the solenoid in place. The 4th screw in the center at the bottom of the solenoid is the ground wire. If it is rusted like mine was just re-attatch it to one of the solenoids holding screw. It must be grounded!
Just re-assemble, just dont forget to replug the connectors. Also a little hint, If you open the freezer door a little you wont trigger the solenoid.

I lifted the old switch with a flat screwdriver, attached wires, and popped into place. Saved 80 bucks for a repair call.

We noticed that there was door area that could be used - so I went hunting for more shlves - Thank Yo for having them in stock....This is used for a Care Home for Multi-Handicapped ladies and their staff....Much appreciated!

removed ice tray, removed drive unit. removed solenoid and replaced, screwed on auger drive. reinstalled drive assembly. replaced ice tray. job done.

Take the cardboard grill off the bottom of the back it is held on with 5-6 hex head screws. Located the voltage inverter on the tank. It's on the bottom left of the refrigerator. Removed the screw that holds it in place.Remove the jumper wires at the quick connect. Rotate the voltage inverter and removed it. Check the voltage at the plug in going to the voltage Inverter. It should be 115-125 volts. Plug in the voltage inverter to the Quick connect away from the tank check the voltage on the side that would be connected to the tank. If both sides don't read at least 115 volts the inverter is bad. Order a new on and reinstall in the reverse order.

Two tabs hold the switch in place. I used a plastic wedge to remove the switch. Removed and replaced the two connectors held in by friction. Painless.

Just pop the old one out, careful not to lose the wiring inside the ref wall & popped the new one in.