ZISW360DRK General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

My GE SideBySide fridge stopped making ice. The green LED light on the icemaker was not blinking. The water dispenser worked fine. Fridge is only 5 years old. Freezer temp set at 7 degrees...fridge at 37 degrees. I have been using these temps since new. GE hotline suggested freezer temp should be at zero degrees. That did not work. Second call suggested an airflow issue within the freezer...there should be 1 inch space between food and back wall. Still no ice. The water valve looks to be the issue. I ordered it and got it in 2 days. Valve is in the back bottom, refridgerator side. Push the white collars around the water hoses...Then pull the hoses out. An adjustable wrench removes the nut for the inlet hose. Disconnect 2 electrical plugs. Be sure to push the water hoses fully into the new valve. I pulled the white collars out a bit to insure a tight fit. I was surprised at how simple this was to install. As it turns out, I was still getting no ice. I ordered a new ice maker and now I'm getting ice. The icemaker was EVEN EASIER to install.

I put the water hoses out the valve and put the hoses back in new valve after that put the valve in the same place with the nutdriver. When refrigerator take the temperature inside, the ice began really easy. Thank you.

removed the back cover, removed one srew that held the valve, disconnected water lines, and installed the new valve. Piece of cake!

Replaced evaporator fan motor, and this solved the whistling noise that had developed. Reviewed and followed the removal and installation instruction video as closely as possible. This was very helpful, with a few additions. For the model PS123NGPBBB GE refrigerator/freezer, there were a few differences from the video. There a was an additional cover panel that was positioned vertically at the back of the freezer compartment below the auger motor assembly. It was necessary to remove this cover (4 screws) to gain access to the auger motor cover screws. The unit also has a different light configuration with 2 lights. I found it helpful to remove these light bulbs and the corresponding light fixtures in order to remove the evaporator motor assembly. As mentioned in the video, it was necessary to cut the 4 wires from the wire harness of the new motor, and use butt end connectors to reattach these wires to the corresponding wires in the unit. Total job took between 1 and 2 hours, and the motor change solved the noise problem.

This should have been easy, but I couldn't get the housing shield off. I removed the 4 screws but it wouldn't come off. It seemed to be stuck in the lower right. (It seems that many people have the same problem.) I decided to destroy the old one and install a new dispenser housing shield, and replace the flapper while I was at it. I finally got the shield off (by taking a pipe wrench to it and breaking it into little pieces) and discovered what the problem was: the light in the lower right had melted the plastic of the dispenser shield, which fused to the plastic of the housing! Bad design, GE! After that, it was no problem. However, I couldn't remember how to replace the microswitch. I should have taken a picture, first. Duh. Lucky for me, Parts Select had a very informative video showing how to replace the microswitch. ! was saved! Thanks, Part Select!

Went exactly by the video. Perfect job, you send the installation video with the part. You watch the video before or during, goof proof, took longer to disassemble than to replace the part.

I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.

Changing out solenoid was very easy, but you don't have to remove trim ring and it didn't fix my problem. Turns out a relay fell out of its holder in the piece you have after removing the 4 screws per the video.

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.

Take the face (the part with the buttons on the outside) off, disconnect wired connectors (three), take the screws out of the part behind that (4), and then find the solenoid value (on the right). It's attached with three screws. Mine was rusted beyond belief. I knew this was the problem, ordered a new solenoid valve, put it back in place with three screws (use new screws that fit, not the old rusty ones if possible). When testing, make sure you give the flap a couple of seconds to close. There is a delay, and I initially wasn't patient enough so I had to disassemble and assemble an extra time because of this.

Simply put: If your solenoid value is rusted and the value won't operate smoothly, order the part and install it. This is as easy as any repair could be.

remove old bulb by screwing it out/install new bulb by screwing it in.

remove the front of were the ice and water comes out
then un scerw 4 scerw and the solenoid slides out unhook the wires and put the new one in

I had to order bucket as well. Then I removed 3 screws from bottom of bucket and removed auger parts as a unit put new drive cup in new bucket and re attached auger parts as assyembly and reinstalled in freezer.

Moved stuff out of my way on the top shelf, reached in and turned old filter to remove. Filled new filter with water, lined up and turned to lock in place. Whew, never thought I would get that job done. :-)

Replaced flapper valve per website instructions. GE factory technician took two weeks to get here, charged over $100 for the call and told us we needed a new refrigerator door at a cost of over $500 to fix the problem. We sent him packing. After visiting the PartSelect website, the $5.88 PartSelect flapper valve fixed the problem. Amazing.