ZISW360DRK General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Pulled ice box away from wall. Took lower cardboard cover off. Shut water line off. Got my volt meter and checked the current going from the wall to the plug in at the inverter (input side), and I had the required 115 volts. Then I unplugged the connection going to the compressor (not the plug at the compressor which you cannot see until you unbolt the inverter) but the output connection side that goes to compressor. I checked the voltage and had about 13 volts not the required 115 volts. Therefore, I came to the conclusion that the inverter was bad. I ordered one from Partselect and they shipped it right away. I installed it and the ice box is back up to running order.

Show installation!

Shut water behind the refrigerator, unplugged the unit. Unscrewed the back tin panel and simply unscrewed the brace scew for the Double Outlet Water Valve. Disconnected the hoss - inspected the hosed for wear. Next detached the hoses and power source to the unit... reconnected both hoses & power source, plug the refrigator back in and inspected for any water leaks. Simple!

Remove the ice maker, motor and replace.

The biggest problem was that the part was NOT available from GE. Part Select had the part, it was easily identified on their website and it couldn't have been easier to order it.

The repair from GE would have cost me hundreds of dollars. Thanks Parts Select.

I went to the internet and found parts select web site. Saw all of the possible fixes for my problem and read all of the other repair stories. My story actually became a journey that is still continuing. I first changed the water filter, but still no water at the dispenser. I next disconnected the coupling at the bottom of the freezer door that carries water to the dispenser and when the dispenser was depressed, water flowed at the coupling, but not at the dispenser. After reconnecting the coupling, I turned the freezer setting to 1 for 4-5 days, but still no water at the dispenser (possibly the line was frozen, but we had recently been away for a week and the water dispenser still supplied water at a freezer setting of 4). Now I am at the point of the journey into replacing parts one at a time to get water. First I ordered the dual water valve for the ice maker and water dispenser. I replaced this valve with instructions from Parts Select and still no water at dispenser. Next I ordered and replaced the switch at the dispenser lever and still no water. Next was the solenoid attached to the ice door, ordered, replaced and still no water at dispenser. I am now at the final part in this repair and that is the $132 circuit board. So I will be ordering this part soon and hopefully that will fix the issue.

remove the front plate. use screwdriver to pry the cover off from the bottom of the cover, remove the wiring from the front cover.remove the 4 screws and pull out the shute. remove three screws from the solonide and replace . very easy fix. save yourself $100.00 labor.

Turns out it was only the frozen water that thawed when I unplugged the fridge for 24 hours.
New part returned, not used.
Service was excellent.

follow the easy instructions replace 3 temperature sensors cut the wires and crimp them with new sensor and it works like new

I turned water off at valve and unplugged refrigerator. I removed screws to remove cardboard cover at bottom. I removed screw holding duel inlet water valve bracket and pulled out valve. Then it's just a matter of exchanging electrical connections and water lines. The electrical connections unplug and plug in-red to red and blue to blue. The water lines are two different sizes so they can't be mixed up. Then reattach bracket and cardboard cover. Turn water back on and plug back in.

I took the ice maker tray out and dumped the ice and then removed 4 screws to take the plastic front off the drawer. I then took 4 more screws out to remove auger assembly. I could now unscrew the broken nut and replace it with the new one and put the snap ring and washer back in place and then put everything back together. Done
Had I had my lathe running at the time I would have made this part out of aluminum instead of the new one and original that is out of plastic which is why it did not last.

I found instructions on the web about how to do this repair, so I ordered the part with confidence. But the instructions simply said "pull out the old switchlight". That was actually somewhat difficult as the clip on the side intended to hold the part in was stubborn. I eventually used a utility to slice off the clip. From that point, it was just a matter of plugging in the new switchlight , which was very simple.

Emptied the ice from tray.
Removed the four screws that hold the face plate.
Removed the four screws that fasten drive housing to the tray.
Slid the drive cup into place at the end of the auger.
Made sure the rubber gasket was in place .
Replaced the four screw that hold the housing to the tray.
Replaced the four screws that hold the face plate.
Put some ice cubes in the tray and tested to be sure everything worked properly.

After inspection of the new door recess assembly, I realized that I could use sidecutters (electronic assembly type) and 'clip' off the inward lock tabs of the old recess assembly and disengage it from the crank door arm without any further disassembly of the refrigerator door. It was easy to 'unhitch' the tang from the crank arm and wiggle it out through the external opening of the ice/water dispenser compartment. I reversed the process and inserted the new assembly through the external opening of the compartment. The new door recess assembly snapped into place on the crank arm and fit tightly against the ice chute opening, correcting the issue caused by aging distortion of the old rubber seal cup portion of the door recess assembly.

Found your web site and bought a couple of replacement parts from you guys and reaaembled unit. Its now working. Only issue I had was in the reassembly of the auger unit, wasn't quite sure of the blades etc. and the proper order Saw the sketch on your site and figured it out from that. Will visit you guys again when I need a part. Good delivery and timely. Thanks and regards Gil

My GE SideBySide fridge stopped making ice. The green LED light on the icemaker was not blinking. The water dispenser worked fine. Fridge is only 5 years old. Freezer temp set at 7 degrees...fridge at 37 degrees. I have been using these temps since new. GE hotline suggested freezer temp should be at zero degrees. That did not work. Second call suggested an airflow issue within the freezer...there should be 1 inch space between food and back wall. Still no ice. The water valve looks to be the issue. I ordered it and got it in 2 days. Valve is in the back bottom, refridgerator side. Push the white collars around the water hoses...Then pull the hoses out. An adjustable wrench removes the nut for the inlet hose. Disconnect 2 electrical plugs. Be sure to push the water hoses fully into the new valve. I pulled the white collars out a bit to insure a tight fit. I was surprised at how simple this was to install. As it turns out, I was still getting no ice. I ordered a new ice maker and now I'm getting ice. The icemaker was EVEN EASIER to install.