PZS23KGECFBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

There were no fastening hardware. The plastic stripper just snaps in place. I had to be patient and could not get it out until I put upward pressure on the stripper.

Easy fix, but they don't give you plenty of wire to work with. When I pulled the switch out it only had about an inch of wire that came with it. meaning if I didn't have a grasp on the wires as I was removing the switch they would have slipped back up the opening

It was very simple! I assessed the situation and gathered my tools for the job. I used a flat head screwdriver, pliers, and electrical tape. I used the flat head screwdriver to release the switch from its location, the pliers to take the electrical terminations apart. I taped the wires individual so that I would not loose them in the door, also not to short them out. I then unpackaged the new switch to install. Pulled the tape off one of the of the terminals while holding the wire, and attached it to the new switchs terminal post. Did the same with the other wire, then snapped the new switch back into place. Immediately had results. I opened and closed the door a few times in amazement that something so annoying such as a light in your fridge could be so easy to fix. Most of all, having a business to rely on to find the part and deliver in a timely fashion. Thank you Partselect.com, you were outstanding!!!

There is no access to the inside of the door to replace the water line. I was able to insert a 1/4" drip line barbed connector into the old line at the base of the door and then connect that to a piece of the plastic tubing which I then connected back to the original water supply tubing with the 5/16" union. It took three attempts to get the tubing through the bottom hinge without a crimp in it. It's best to have a second person to hold the door while you "fish" the tubing through the hinge.

I took the advice off of your website about the only thing that will fix
the problem is change the run capacitor. I felt assured that I would
have a working refrigerator freezer after making this change. I was
pretty disheartened when it didn`t solve anything. I was not going to
take the new part back out after the small challenge of putting it in.
The next day I found out how to test the old capacitor and it was still
good. I will just have to eat the $49. I did learn not to take advice from
a website even if it seems like a sure thing

Raised side of fridge enough to get 1/4" ratchet with 1/4" socket under roller wheel assy. Removed three hex-head screws to separate damaged wheel assy from fridge frame. From panel below fridge compartment, backed-out stripped leveling screw. Mounted new roller assy and then threaded in new leveling screw from front. Lowered fridge and adjusted leveling screw for proper height. Suggest putting a 2x4 under fridge for safety when hands are under unit.

Removed the ice maker from the freezer. Unscrewed the outer cover/base of the ice maker. Unscrewed the long lever that opens the ice chute. This freed up the feeder coil enough to pull it out enough to replace the cup drive. Once I replaced the cup drive, I laid it back down into the ice maker bin, reattached all the screws and it worked! The old cup drive had a tine broken off which would not allow the feeder coil to turn. It seems like a weak part and I anticipate I may have to replace it again in a few years.

Removed tray, threw out ice , removed 3 screws used 2 screw drivers to seperate part & re installed

Tube was too short so I used the union to attach additional tubing to reach the valve at the lower rear of refrigerator

I searched YouTube for the problem and was quickly taken to several videos that detailed to required actions. This encouraged me to proceed, so I took the back cover off and found the water valve leaking. I then googled the make and model of the frig and found the part. The YouTube videos provided all of the details needed to determine the problem and replace the faulty part. Once the part arrived, I was able to install the new one in a few minutes. Operation returned to the water dispenser and the leak was gone. Total cost of the repair was $56 and took about 1.5 hours to remove the original part, order the replacement and install it when it came. Perfect!

Before replacing the top filter housing, ensure the inlet water valve is operational. Replacing is a straight forward process. Unhook the houses from the inlet water valve in the back of the refrigerator. Remove and replace the top filter housing and ensure you replace the sealant using plumbers putty or sealant dicor butyl putty.

Your instructions were "spot on"! Pried out broken switch with screwdriver-reinstalled new switch. Very easy! Ordered on line on a Wednesday new part arrived on following Saturday-Great service and will definately use again. Highly recommend PartSelect!

Took out ice tray and then slid motor out of right side bracket and sat on shelf. Removed the 3 screws holding up left side bucket glide first. Make sure you have correct size socket for the 3 screws on bucket glide. Works best with a screwdriver type socket tool. I then removed broken plastic piece from motor (screw in motor is different size than the ones for left side bucket glide). I put in new left side bucket glide (rear back screw a little bit of a challenge but it can be done) and then slid motor back into right side bracket and fastened motor to new plastic piece that sticks out from left side bucket glide. Put back in ice tray and good to go!

replaced with new connector and it worked great. also replaced the water filter and that was super easy!

Removed ice bucket and observed the plastic drive bushing for the auger had the drive dog broken off. I removed the four screws on outer shell for the ice bucket, removed it and found the auger had key stoned a hole in the ice tray housing. At that point I decided to replace the ice bucket and auger assy. The new one works fine.