PZS23KGECFBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

used a screwdriver to remove screw and unplugged part. Plugged in new one and secured with a screw.
Simple

Removed rear and front grills,brushed and vacuumed area- probably caused the fan motor to fail- unplugged fan, removed fan,motor,and shroud in 1 piece, carefully slipped fan off motor shaft, unscrewed shroud and motor. assembled in reverse order. Frige is in tight area, .I'll now roll it out and clean often

I inserted the tip of a very small screwdriver from a eye glass repair kit into the three small holes under the panel near where the ice is dispensed. I never would have known about this simple procedure if it wasn't for the feedback you post from your parts cumtomers. Once I did this the front panel with the buttons on it poped off and it was just a matter of removing a few screws at that point. The wires from the new solenoid easily plugged into the board on the front panel. I would recommend changing the screws at the same time. The old one's worked but they were rusty. I feel the solenoid was my only problem but I changed all the parts in between the dispenser door and the solenoid just to be sure.

The Top Filter Housing on this refrigerator contains some sort of Excess Flow Check Valve to prevent water flow if there is no filter installed. When the spring on this valve weakens over time, the valve closes unnecessarily with normal flow and chatters. This sounds like a woodpecker hammering on the side of your house and water flow is almost non-existant. You may have heard the same thing after you changed the filter if there was air in the system. The noise stops and you have normal water flow once the air is vented out of the filter. If you start hearing this noise unprovoked (filter has not been recently changed), the Top Filter Housing needs to be replaced. To replace this part, you will need a 1/4" and 5/16" nut drivers or sockets and two 1/2" open ended wrenches. You might also need plumber's putty. Shut off the water and have a bucket ready to drain the water into. Remove the lower cover from the back of the refrigerator. Disconnect the two hoses going to/from the top filter housing. One is connected to the main water line, the other is connected to the Water Fill Valve located in back of the refrigerator on the bottom left corner. Un-screw the cover plate from the back of the refrigerator and pull the plumbers putty out (can be re-used if still pliable). On the inside of the refrigerator, pull the plastic cap off the Top Filter Housing to expose the two screws holding it in place. Remove the two screws and pull out the Top Filter Housing with Tubing. Replacement is the reverse of what you just did. If the tubing is a little short, you will want to unbolt the Water Fill Valve from the refrigerator prior to re-connecting it to ensure a water tight connection.

Pulled the ice/water control panel off using the three holes under the lip. Pops off pretty easy. Next came 4 screws holding the chute for the ice. Two bottom screws were very rusty, top two look brand new. Watch the wires. Replace the solenoid assembly by unplugging wires leading to the board, then removed the plunger over the top of the hook on the far right. Went ahead and replaced the dispenser door assembly or flapper. Plugged refridge back in and pressed the ice dispenser handle and listened for the solenoid to cycle. Perfect. There is a little delay before you hear the flapper fall into place. Saving rest of parts just in case they are needed next time.Thanks to everyone who wrote in to show how easy it would be. No telling how much a repairman would have charged me.

we just pried out the old switch and pulled it out the rest of the way with a pair of needle nose pliers. Pulled off the wires on the broken switch and reattached to the new one and just slid/clicked it back into the hole.

It appeared that the helix lock wore out first, then the cutter teeth dug into the side of the plastic housing. Then the cup drive broke in half from the helix being jammed. Removed the ice bin from the refrigerator. removed 4 screws around the edge of the bin. Pry open clips that hold the auger assembly in place. Remove the clip from the end of the auger. Pry old plate helix lock from holder. Pull out helix auger removing cutters and keeping everything in order. Replace old plate helix lock with new one. Replace cutters in order and tighten nut and install clip. Put new cup drive on end of helix. Snap assembly back together. Replace screws.

Replaced gasket. No tools requires. Just pull the old one out and press new one in channel with hands. TIP: heat the new one slightly with a hair dryer or a heat gun on low. Makes it more flexible

-Disconnect the power supply wire& turn temp control inside refrigerator to 0!
-15 mins spent on remove (5 screws) the back panel inside freezer, melt ice then replace the heater (2 screws) on the bottom! Black wire on left & pink wire on the right! Make sure both end has good connection to the heater!

-30 mins to drain all water from the bottom (back side) of the refrigerator, suck & clean all dust & dirt from the front & back side!

-Set both temp control knots to 5 & put back all the food!

-If no ice build up on the panel after 10 days & then the repair is good!

went to your website and viewed exploded view to find the sensor( there are two I just picked one to replace for now), pried the cover off carfully and pulled out the sensor. I snipped the wire in the middle leaving plenty to work with. I shortened the wire on the new piece, spliced the wires together and with some 3M rubberized, tape wrapped them up, replaced the sensor back into the cover and snapped in place.

First remove about 30 screws w/nutdriver that are hidden under door seal then inside of freezer door will come off. Second remove about 10 screws that hold dispenser assy to the inside of door, then support the unit with tape so you don't damage the wires that connect it. Third, pop touchpad loose, then remove three sets of wires plugged into the circuit board. Fourth, remove four screws that hold the ice chute and light assy. Fifth, now remove the 3 screws that hold solenoid. These three screws that hold the solenoid will be very rusty, you may want to replace these also. I went ahead and replaced all the related parts because they are so hard to get to. Also took the opportunity to clean in here with bleach to remove all the black mold and rust.
NOTE: when reassembling the inside of the freezer door to the outside of the door you must loosely attach the door on both sides in the middle first, then the top and bottom. Add some more screws on each side and tighten them all. Now you must check to be sure that the door is not racked. If the door is not sealed at the top or bottom, loosen the screws and twist the door a little and tighten screws and check door again for proper seal. Spent more time adjusting door to seal right than doing the actual repair.

put fridge into test mode, failed One sensor. Took it out, Tested it, Ordered part also picked up splice kit from electric store spliced it truned on and good to go

Ordered parts from another vendor - got wrong parts (1/4 in parts instead of 5/16 in parts). With your parts, I just cut out the bad portion of the tubing, and replaced it using the 2 union connectors. Thanks.

unplugged refrigerator. removed light bulb from old socket. unsnapped old light socket and pulled it out just enough to diconnect the electrical plug that plugs into the socket . discarded the old socket and plugged in new socket. snapped in new socket into refrigerator. i watched how to do this simple procedure on you tube and decided to do it myself. easy easy easy

Symptom was water running out of bottom of fridge. Found water pooled up under bottom drawer. Removed (3) drawers and found water was "spraying" from the reservoir tank at back of fridge. Unboxed the new "tank" and confirmed it was the right one by holding it up to the one still in the fridge. Pulled fridge from the wall; removed the rear bottom cover panel on the back using the nutdriver. Removed the solenoid assy by taking that single hex screw out. Push down on the blue circular flange where tube supply enters solenoid, and release the tubing from the solenoid. Remove front bottom cover with phillips screwdriver. Located 2nd tubing connector below freezer (under the unit) and used the same procedure to release that tube from the coupling. Removed screws from tank on inside of fridge, after removing several shelves that were in front of it. Pulled the tubing from the old unit up and out. Discard. Got new unit and fed tubes through the hole the others came out of (back right corner of fridge) MAKE SURE THE NEW TUBES HAVE THEIR "stoppers" IN PLACE. You don't want to contaminate the new tubes with insulation or other debris. Make sure the "o" ring that seals the tubes on the inside of the fridge (supplied with new unit)and the styrofoam insulation stays in place to keep air from leaking through the holes the tubes go through. Installation of the (2) tubes is simple, simply push them into the connector on the solenoid, and the coupler under the freezer. You'll need to feed the longer tube from the back to the front left corner where this coupler is. After making the connection, I bolted the solenoid unit back to the fridge (only 1 screw) and then tested the unit to see there were no leaks before I buttoned everything up. NO LEAKS!! Put the front bottom grill back on with the (2) phillips screws, and the back bottom cover back on with the hex screws removed near the beginning. Probably took longer to write this than it did to make the repair.