GSE23GSKJCSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Mark from LAKE WORTH, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR71X38331
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Old tray had split hands.
Slip out old one, slide in new tray!
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- Customer:
- Joe from Alvin, TX
- Parts Used:
- WR17X20449
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The plastic lug holding the spring broke free, so the paddle had no way to return to its original position
1) Use plastic spudgers to remove the front control panel by levering on the front bottom of the plastic
2) Unscrew 4 retaining screws from the internal assembly
3) Slide clear plastic ice chute from the internal assembly
4) Lift the paddle 90 degrees to remove it
5) Place the spring on the paddle lug such that the long side fits in the groove on the back
6) Press the spring back, and slide the paddle into the paddle holder at a 90 degree angle
7) Once installed the short side of the spring should press against the plastic to force the paddle to its default position
8) Slide the ice chute back into the assembly
9) Replace the 4 screws holding the assembly to the refrigerator
10) Replace the front control panel
I may have missed a step here or there, but nothing major. Be mindful of the switches, and the placement of the wires. The entire process took maybe 5 minutes. I would say the most difficult part is getting the control panel off, it kind of feels like it might break, but it's a pretty robust piece.
2) Unscrew 4 retaining screws from the internal assembly
3) Slide clear plastic ice chute from the internal assembly
4) Lift the paddle 90 degrees to remove it
5) Place the spring on the paddle lug such that the long side fits in the groove on the back
6) Press the spring back, and slide the paddle into the paddle holder at a 90 degree angle
7) Once installed the short side of the spring should press against the plastic to force the paddle to its default position
8) Slide the ice chute back into the assembly
9) Replace the 4 screws holding the assembly to the refrigerator
10) Replace the front control panel
I may have missed a step here or there, but nothing major. Be mindful of the switches, and the placement of the wires. The entire process took maybe 5 minutes. I would say the most difficult part is getting the control panel off, it kind of feels like it might break, but it's a pretty robust piece.
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- Customer:
- Gerald from Colorado Springs, CO
- Parts Used:
- WR57X33326
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set, Wrench set
water leak on floor
pulled out refer. found leak at corner lower back, pulled off lower cover. found valve for icemaker leaking. looked in owners/inst guide, pulled up on computer, identified part, called, order overnight part. recieved part & installed, repair complete & successful.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Huber Heights, OH
- Parts Used:
- WR57X33326
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
water dispenser was slowly leaking
Shut off water supply. Unplugged refrigerator. Removed cover. (6 screws -- nutdriver will come in handy). Removed screw securing water valve to frame (again the nutdriver). Unplugged red and white power connectors to solenoids. Using channel locks, loosened nut holding main water supply to valve and removed. Depressed compression fittings to valve and pulled out plastic water lines that supply water dispenser and ice maker. Reconnected main water supply to new part. Pushed both water lines into respective fittings of new part. Reconnected power supply to solenoids. Attached new part to frame with screw. Replaced back cover. Turned water supply back on. Plugged refrig. back in. Problem solved! Savings = $300!
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- Customer:
- BRUCE from MARGATE, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR02X45209
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Water Dispenser Not Working
Before replacing the top filter housing, ensure the inlet water valve is operational. Replacing is a straight forward process. Unhook the houses from the inlet water valve in the back of the refrigerator. Remove and replace the top filter housing and ensure you replace the sealant using plumbers putty or sealant dicor butyl putty.
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- Customer:
- Kenneth from Milford, CT
- Parts Used:
- WR23X21444
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Freezer Light switch broke
Your instructions were "spot on"! Pried out broken switch with screwdriver-reinstalled new switch. Very easy! Ordered on line on a Wednesday new part arrived on following Saturday-Great service and will definately use again. Highly recommend PartSelect!
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- Customer:
- Roberta from Estero, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR71X10582, WR02X10662
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Original shelf was a split/slide in shelf which I did not like
I removed the old shelf and installed the new one!
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- Customer:
- Daniel from pasadena, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR32X10156
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The glass was broken in a move
The new shelf went in really easy. It just fit in the alloted slot.
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- Customer:
- Timothy from Hartford, MI
- Parts Used:
- WR51X10101
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Coils in Freezer over frosted restricting air flow.Warm Frig.
1) Unplug Refrigerator. Remove all shelves and light shield in the freezer.
2)Remove panel covering refrigeration coils inside freezer in back. Two hex head screws w/nut driver.
3)Remove the defrost heater using phillips screw driver. Two screws.
4)Unplug two quick disconnect stakons and wires from heater.
5)Plug the wire coming down the right side into one side of the new heater and plug the shipped white wire into the other quick disconnect spade at the heater.
6)Install the new dual element defrost heater into the same place where the old was. Connections to the right.
7)Route the wire that was on the left across the top of the coils and down the right side.
8)Bring the existing wire from the left side down the right side and the white wire up the right side. Wires should not be tight at all and do not remove the tape at the stakon.
9)Now wires need to be cut (if necessary)and crimped together in the shipped stakon. This stakon looks like a wire nut.
10)Wires should be tucked gently into the styrofoam up and down the right side. Wirenut should be positioned so that water can not collect in it.
11)Replace the panel over the cooling coils.
12)Plug Refigerator back into the wall outlet. Put shelves and light shield back in.
13)My refrigerator is now working without a problem. It's been est two weeks.
Ice maker is also working correctly.
2)Remove panel covering refrigeration coils inside freezer in back. Two hex head screws w/nut driver.
3)Remove the defrost heater using phillips screw driver. Two screws.
4)Unplug two quick disconnect stakons and wires from heater.
5)Plug the wire coming down the right side into one side of the new heater and plug the shipped white wire into the other quick disconnect spade at the heater.
6)Install the new dual element defrost heater into the same place where the old was. Connections to the right.
7)Route the wire that was on the left across the top of the coils and down the right side.
8)Bring the existing wire from the left side down the right side and the white wire up the right side. Wires should not be tight at all and do not remove the tape at the stakon.
9)Now wires need to be cut (if necessary)and crimped together in the shipped stakon. This stakon looks like a wire nut.
10)Wires should be tucked gently into the styrofoam up and down the right side. Wirenut should be positioned so that water can not collect in it.
11)Replace the panel over the cooling coils.
12)Plug Refigerator back into the wall outlet. Put shelves and light shield back in.
13)My refrigerator is now working without a problem. It's been est two weeks.
Ice maker is also working correctly.
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- Customer:
- Peter from Marietta, GA
- Parts Used:
- WR02X11330, WR17X2891
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench set
Refrigerator water dispenser tube (5/16"OD) broken at the back by valve
Tube was too short so I used the union to attach additional tubing to reach the valve at the lower rear of refrigerator
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- Customer:
- Anthony from Carmel, IN
- Parts Used:
- WR57X33326
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
No water from the dispenser
I pulled-out & unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the screws to gain access through the lower back panel. The water valve is on the left side as I face the back of the fridge. It has one screw holding it to the frame of the fridge. Once it is free, the main water hose is unscrewed and the two out-let lines were pulled-out. If your valve was not ruined prior to this, it is ruined now, as the lines will not re-seat. Then everything is done in reverse order. I did cut 1/2 inch off of the two lines so that they reseat into the new valve. Just push into the valve and they are good.
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- Customer:
- Amy from Bryan, TX
- Parts Used:
- MWFP, WR02X11330
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
union connector leaking
replaced with new connector and it worked great. also replaced the water filter and that was super easy!
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- Customer:
- Jake from Brainerd, MN
- Parts Used:
- WR57X33326
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Ice maker inlet tube was freezing up, and eventually the icemaker overfilled and completely froze up
After lots of research online, i narrowed my problem down to be the double outlet water valve, behind the fridge. My biggest problem was getting the refridgerator out of its spot, but after that it was pretty simple to change. I took the cover off the bottom, in the back of the fridge, then i removed the inlet waterline (after i turned off the water supply to the fridge). After that i removed the screw that holds the valve to the framework. Now i pulled off the two other waterlines from the old valve and moved them, one at a time, over to the new valve, along with the wire harness. The rest of the instalation was reverse order. Simple fix that im glad i didn't pay an expert to do!
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- Customer:
- JOSEPH from SURFSIDE, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR02X11330, WR17X2891
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Cold water for door - leaked on floor
Pulled new tubing to the tank and put a union about 8 inches down from tank to new tubing. Great repair. Parts not readily available locally.
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- Customer:
- Daniel from ZIONSVILLE, PA
- Parts Used:
- WR17X11168
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
water line (from the PS304374 Dual Inlet Water Valve) to the ice maker was craked and leaking
1. Removed the back panel of the fridge to get access to the inlet water valve.
2. Removed black poly water line from valve (pull back on white ring where line is attached and pull the line out)
3. Removed the inlet tube from top-back of fridge (where it goes into the ice make). use putty knife to get under the sticky white gasket beneath the black oval housing and pull the tube out form the back of the fridge.
4. Replace the water line with new part taking care to properly seat the line into the the bottom water valve and pushing the water tube into the hole for the ice maker.
Note: Be sure to take off the protective covering from the white - sticky grommet and push to adhere to metal on fridge.
to be safe - use a bit of clear silicone chaulking round the perimeter of the grommet and push to tighly bond the water inlet tube to the fridge.
The reason for this - is that if you do not get a good bond using the white - sticky gormmet alone - you may have the water tube inside the ice maker freeze up.
Also once the new water line is installed be sure to secure the line to the metal back of the fridge - so the line will not move. some fridges come with metal hose clamps to do this - otherwise use duct tape
2. Removed black poly water line from valve (pull back on white ring where line is attached and pull the line out)
3. Removed the inlet tube from top-back of fridge (where it goes into the ice make). use putty knife to get under the sticky white gasket beneath the black oval housing and pull the tube out form the back of the fridge.
4. Replace the water line with new part taking care to properly seat the line into the the bottom water valve and pushing the water tube into the hole for the ice maker.
Note: Be sure to take off the protective covering from the white - sticky grommet and push to adhere to metal on fridge.
to be safe - use a bit of clear silicone chaulking round the perimeter of the grommet and push to tighly bond the water inlet tube to the fridge.
The reason for this - is that if you do not get a good bond using the white - sticky gormmet alone - you may have the water tube inside the ice maker freeze up.
Also once the new water line is installed be sure to secure the line to the metal back of the fridge - so the line will not move. some fridges come with metal hose clamps to do this - otherwise use duct tape
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