GTS22FBPBRWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I found a replacement evaporator fan motor and 2 mounting bracket grommets at PartSelect.com at a reasonable price. I watched the installation video provided and installed the new parts as shown in the video start to finish installation time 22 minutes.i

I took the ice maker out then the panels that closes in the evaporator coil. Disconnected the defrost censer and tested it with an ice bath. The censer did not close the circuit. So it's bad. I got the parts .(Very fast I might add. The PartSelect team did a great job of getting it to me). I the stripped the wires and spliced the like colors back together and tested the censer again with an ice bath. It closed this time. I started the frig and have not heard anything from the client. In this case "No news is good news". Thanks PartSelect

i took out back frame and cleared off the ice on the metal condenser. I cut wires from old thermostat and removed it. Stripped new wires and attached to the wires in the frig. We taped it with electrical tape and put it back and closed it up. it works beautifully! We watched a video on youtube and that helped a great deal!

I watched the online video on how to replace a defrost limiter. It was almost exactly like my situation and made the job seem familiar. It was inexpensive ($8 part)and easy to do.

Unplug the refrigerator. Pull all shelves out of the freezer. Remove light bulb shield and light bulb. Remove the two hex head screws on either side of the light bulb. Wiggle out the back wall. It is a tight sqeeze, but can be done. Locate the sensor on the top of the coils. It is held on by a simple clip. Wiggle the sensor and twist a little to take it off. Take wire cutters and cut the two wires into the sensor near the sensor to allow lots of room to splice in the new sensor. Strip about a quarter inch of wires left in the freezer. Use some sort of wire connectors, like twist caps, which will allow you to connect the two wires to the new sensor. Make sure to match the colors. I used shrink tube and line connectors. Once you have the new wires spliced together and protected with either shrink tube or electrical tape, tuck the excess wire out of the way and attach the new sensor. This is easily done by slight pressure on the sensor with the tube in between the clip and sensor. Make sure the wires are tuck out of the way and reassemble the freezer panel, light bulb, and shelves in the reverse order.

I ordered the part but my husband had to work out of town for a week. The fridge kept getting warmer, so when the part came I just watched the video on the internet, (bit the bullet) and did the repair just as I saw it done on the video. It was simple and exactly the same as the video. It took a little longer for me because there was a lot of ice built up on the coils, so I used my hair dryer to melt the ice. My refridgerator is working great now.

Refrigerator was showing actual temperature of 80 deg, freezer was about 3 deg high. (house temp was 65 at the time) Defrost heater seemed like the only component able to heat that much, so the defrost thermostat seemed like the likely culprit. I followed the installation directions in the video, and the fridge has been fine ever since.

verify the heating element was o.k., found the top of the thermostat popped off,it had water in it,probably froze and came apart,cut the wires to the old thermostat and splice the new ones together,put the cover back on and verify operation

I replaced the thermostat. I simply followed the insructions in the video on your website and it was done in about 5-10 minutes.

My Ge top freezer fefrigerator was going into defrost mode and the heater was staying on for too long causing the food to thaw and eventually refreeze. Originally thought it was the mother board but after researching and do some troubleshooting of my own I realized the defrost terminating thermostat was bad. $8 part from Parts Select. Accessed the evaporator by removing back wall plate. Located thermostat and cut two lead wires to it. Spliced in new thermostat and reattached to eveaporator. Refrigerator seems to be good as new. There is an installation video on the web page that shows you step by step proceedure.

All the rest of everyone's post are all what I did. The only other thing I recommend is to put the back panel over the evaporator coils when your done. I replaced defrost thermostat, and heater. Once I initially completed it it kept icing over more than usual. You have to put the back panel back on so airflow goes over the coils.

Once the part was received, it was very easy to snap the new part into place, and reinstall the drawers. No tools were required to complete the repair.

It was very tricky getting the old piece out, even though it was partially broken... I ended up snapping the old piece to remove it. Trying to install the new track with the glass shelf above was not working at all, but once I removed the glass shelf above it, the new piece went in pretty easily. With the glass shelf out, I could angle the track upward to get it into position. In retrospect, I should have removed the glass shelf from the start... it would have made removal of the old piece much easier.

Unplugged the refrigerator first....then on the inside of the fridge, I popped the temp sensor cover off (upper LH side) and exposed the old sensor. I snipped off the old sensor about 3" down from the end and connected the new sensor (which I trimmed down to about 3" long) with some heat shrink wire nuts/connectors. Let the fridge run for a day or so and confirmed the problem was solved! Oh yeah, there was no way to tell the 2 wires apart (power vs. ground) on the sensor. However there was a manufacturer's stamp on the wires. So note the orientation of the text and mark one of the wires with a sharpie on both the old and new sensor before trimming. This will give you a reference for which wires to connect when adding the new sensor to the old wires.

pull out the slide pan lh and replace for the part