GTS22FBPBRWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

After turning off power and unthawing back cover so I could remove it. Then I had remove all of the ice from the coils with a hair dryer. After everything was unthawed I removed the temperature sensor from the coil tubing and cut the wires. I skinned the wires on the new sensor and crimped a butt splice on each wire. I skinned each wire in the freezer then crimped butt splices to each wire. After taping the connections with black tape I reinstalled the back cover and turned on the power. So far it has been two weeks and there Is no frost and the refridgerator is working fine.

Laying on my side.

Attempted it on my own with the aid of the video on your site, but could not remove the fan shroud due to additional copper lines that prevented me from getting it out.
Gave up and called an appliance repair guy. He had a novel approach: Don't pull the fan shroud (with motor attached) out, but instead remove one of the screws holding the motor into the bracket, then bend the bracket to get the motor out.
All good until we powered the fridge on again. Now the fan works, but spins faster (and makes more noise than) the original fan.
The repair guy's comment: "I've seen that before with some of the aftermarket fans."
Nice! I'd appreciate getting the right part when I order the part from your website based on my fridge model number.

I followed your video and completely dismantled the refrigerator evaporator motor, fan, brackets, and grommet, I completely cleaned the refrigerator including the cooling coils. I then ordered the evaporator motor ,fan, grommets, lid bumper, and brackets. The order would take a week to arrive. In the meantime I cleaned and reassembled all the old parts, waiting for the new ones to come. Guess what! The refrigerator was quiet as a mouse. I really did not need the new parts, but I kept them anyway just for good luck. Not bad for a refrigerator that's twenty four years old.

Removed the fan blade then removed the motor. Replaced motora nd Installed fun blade.

Gaskets designed to just press a flange into channel around doors. I tried everything..I pre-heated gaskets ; I put dish soap around flange; I used (carefully) a heat gun as I pressed gasket in. Really very difficult to get the gasket to seat fully. I don't know if there is a tool to help you do this, but you need strong fingers/thumbs and endurance. Once seated, you will need to heat the gasket to get it to fully seal against the fridge. Just lightly heat along the gasket with the doors closed and press open the fold with your fingers. I let the doors stay closed over night. Works great now, but I probably will call a repairman the next time. I miss the old gaskets with a zillion screws..PITA, but easier.

Easy

Totally followed the instructions of the video that came with the sensor. Unplugged the the fridge, defrosted the freezer. Cut off the main sensor that usually is the one that goes out. Installed the the new sensor with new wire terminals, crimped them and covered with electrical tape. Fridge works like a charm. Partsselect is excellent. Saved me a few hundred dollars versus having a GE Tech come and do it.

turn off the refrigerator,then open the cover and saw lot of ice. then get a hair dryer blower and blow a heat to melt the ice. cut the thermostat defrost.

Find online diagram of freezer section for reference. Disconnect power, remove evap cover plate (214) by removing one of the drawer guide rails.

As evidence of your problem, you might see a giant block of ice built up around the coil. Let this defrost this before continuing.

Find THERMOSTAT DEFROST (24) sensor and clip connecting wires. Match replacement sensor wires by color. Twist and solder wires; or wire-nuts and twisting alone might be okay. If not soldering, seal the wire-nuts connections from moister with a good sizeable piece of duct tape. Make sure your wires are out of the way and not left dangling on the evap heater coil, where they could melt.

Suggest concurrent replacement of evap fan motor if this has not already been done in the past.. This become noisy with age and damage from the ice build up seems to have made mine worse.

Nothing much. It needed the snack pan, which it has never had.
The door was the main issue. My young son would hang on the door. We started having problems with it not closing. Then on day it snapped off. We repaired the screw but found the hole was stripped out. We moved the door to the other side. When the door fell off it broke the upper door shelf. This was a quick slide in repair that did not require any tools.

first removed two srews removed rear panel hair dryer to melt ice (took 30 minutes) cut two wires to thermostat spliced onto new part clipped it onto tube -done replace rear panel and 2 screws. very easy job after reading other letters and their experience -saved myself $500.00

3 weeks After changing the defrost heater, i had to change the thermostat, part was suppose to come with wire connectors and everything needed, it didn't. Cut two wires to old thermostst, strip about a 1/4 inch of insulation and crimp new wires on part together. cover with heat shrink and heat with lighter until sealed.

I followed the instructional video. It was right on the money for accuracy in terms of part location and method of replacement.

I took off the back panel in the freezer. Located the wires going to the old thermostat, cut them with wire cutters. I then spliced the matching wires together and attached the part to the coil tube (There is a little clip on the part, be sure to do this because I forgot and had to go back and do this again!!!).