GSS23HMHBCES General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

The slideout shelf "assembly" comes without the
keeper tab, and as such is incomplete. You have to order it separately or rob it from the old one. If the old one is broken or you break it trying to get it out of the old one you're out of luck unless you ordered
the tab also. Other than that it's a no-brainer.

First, I removed the top drawer blocking the area where I needed to put the glass panel cover. Then, I removed the drawer along with the glass panel holder to which I needed to install the glass. I installed the glass to the panel holder without difficulties (although the glass cover was expensive :() and reinstall the drawers back to their proper place. This repair was actually a no-brainer.

Remove and replace. Unfortunately this is the third handle on this refrigerator. The end is plastic and it works itself loose. If there is the slightest amount of gap it will snap the plastic. Need to tie an allen wrench to the handle and tighten it after every use apparently.

Replaced both temp sensors worked good for 2 days then began freezing food. Looked into it further on line. Found small motorized door broken that controls the cold air from the freezer

removed 3 screws with 1/4 " nut driver, unplugged 2 plugs by prying out on side tabs, removed bracket and motor. Used vice grips to hold motor shaft and used screwdriver to turn auger fork clockwise and remove. Unplugged two connectors from motor. removed 3 screws with 1/4" nut driver to remove motor. changed rubber boot from old motor to new. Reversed procedures to install new motor on bracket, auger fork, bracket in freezer, etc. Only difficulty getting both hands in narrow freezer compartment. Still didn't work, called repairman. When he got here I showed him the problem and lo and behold, now it would not dispense water. He diagnosed it as a bad motherboard, replaced it and all good now. Motherboard $150, diagnose and labor $90, but it is all good now and I even have a spare motor. The failing mother board causes strange howling noises at times and we discovered the compressor fan had also stopped working and in a short while I would have had a bad problem. Caught it just in time!!!

Removed panel from inside the back of the freezer section, by removing four screws. Then, sprayed the ice build-up on the coils, with hot water until all of the ice was melted away. (Note: be certain to plug the drain hole, and use several towels to catch the water drainage. ) Removed the Defrost Heater Element by removing two holding screws. Unplug the unit and pluged-in the new unit and replaced all screws as originally mounted.

The repaire guy came in tooke it out and told me it is goin to coast $20 for the part and $50 for the labor..... So I looked, It was soooo eeezzz ALL you have to do is get the switch out( with help of my butter knife :) it plugs in to a little outlet on the wire (on the botom side) so take out the old one and plug in the new one wich I got for $8 + $6 shipping = $15 THANK YOU PART SELECT for saving me $55 Im a 36 y/o stayathome mom and Ihave never don this before, Im very proud of my self. well... it was very easy!

After removing three screws on the ice bucket, it basicly came apart by itself. I needed to use pliers to remove the old nut because it had over tightened itself onto the shaft. Be careful here - it is a left hand nut - not a normal right hand nut! Reassembly was a snap putting the parts back together in reverse order. Unit has been working great since the repair.

By reading another customers tip I decided that my problem was the exact same. I had to order the entire motor not just the auger because the motor shaft was stripped. Once you remove the motor, hold the shaft with a pair of vise grips and use a screw driver to turn the auger off clockwise. The threads are reversed. The new auger screws easily onto the new motor counterclockwise and installing back into the fridge was a snap.

Slip out old one, slide in new tray!

There is no access to the inside of the door to replace the water line. I was able to insert a 1/4" drip line barbed connector into the old line at the base of the door and then connect that to a piece of the plastic tubing which I then connected back to the original water supply tubing with the 5/16" union. It took three attempts to get the tubing through the bottom hinge without a crimp in it. It's best to have a second person to hold the door while you "fish" the tubing through the hinge.

Raised side of fridge enough to get 1/4" ratchet with 1/4" socket under roller wheel assy. Removed three hex-head screws to separate damaged wheel assy from fridge frame. From panel below fridge compartment, backed-out stripped leveling screw. Mounted new roller assy and then threaded in new leveling screw from front. Lowered fridge and adjusted leveling screw for proper height. Suggest putting a 2x4 under fridge for safety when hands are under unit.

The trouble shooting information on the web site indicated that the damper door within the climate control unit may be broken. This was easily confirmed and the replacement of the climate control unit immediately returned the food locker temperatures to the digital electronic thermostat settings. The part has an improved ventilation gasket interface between the food locker and freezer. The unit works perfectly again, and the food locker temperature is exactly what the thermostat setting is.

This part (plastic tubing) does not show up under my model of refrig...so I had to look thru the various water lines and pick the one that "looked" right. Luckily, this is the exact replacement part and works perfectly. I removed the lower back panel from the fridge, removed the bracket holding the water line connectors and pressed the outer ring of the coupler up until it released the old water line. I pushed in the new line, made sure it was snug with a gentle pull and ran the line under the fridge up to the existing coupler. I removed the old line from the existing coupler under the front left of the freezer door, and pushed in the new line. I did not need to use the new coupler. If my old line would not have been so brittle and cracked in several places, I could have just cut out the leaking portion and popped the new couple in to mend the line back together. Easy job and we can stop buying bottled water at the store now!

I followed the isntructions of another fellow who had repaired his ice maker, but made the mistake of taking the ice crushers apart before noting where the fixed blades were to be reassembled. Since there was not a schematic with the part I had to go on line to your site and enlarge and use the one there, while accurate, was very hard to read and when I finished, I think it is in the wrong place as I'm not able to get the fineness of crushed ice I had before the repair, but absent a very legible schematic I'm not going to try to fix it further. The auger works, gives us ice cubes and half crushed cubes.
Another tip for future repairers is to to wait for the ice container to warm up or use a hair drier on the part where the tabs need to be depressed to slip off the blade housing. When cold it's extremely brittle, but since I had to leave the job for later at one point and left in on my work bench I found it much more pliable and easy to assemble.
All in all, I'm OK with the part and the result, but wish I could have gotten the fixed blade back into the right spot.