GSG25MIMBFBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Tube was too short so I used the union to attach additional tubing to reach the valve at the lower rear of refrigerator

I tried to quite the noisey evap motor with special liquid motor grease from Radio Shack. It did not work, so I ordered the evap motor. My freezer motor was wired slightly different than the motor I received. The replacement motor had a male plug attached to the four wires, the original motor was different, so I cut the wires and spliced them into the original freezer wires (colors were the same). Remounted motor. Works great, and no more groaning motor
Peter

pulled out broken bucket and auger assy. and slid in the replacement. works great so far. The easiest part was ordering the part and it didn't take very long at all to get it. Customer Service was very good at getting the job done. Thanks

Replace

Pulled new tubing to the tank and put a union about 8 inches down from tank to new tubing. Great repair. Parts not readily available locally.

1. Removed the back panel of the fridge to get access to the inlet water valve.
2. Removed black poly water line from valve (pull back on white ring where line is attached and pull the line out)
3. Removed the inlet tube from top-back of fridge (where it goes into the ice make). use putty knife to get under the sticky white gasket beneath the black oval housing and pull the tube out form the back of the fridge.
4. Replace the water line with new part taking care to properly seat the line into the the bottom water valve and pushing the water tube into the hole for the ice maker.

Note: Be sure to take off the protective covering from the white - sticky grommet and push to adhere to metal on fridge.

to be safe - use a bit of clear silicone chaulking round the perimeter of the grommet and push to tighly bond the water inlet tube to the fridge.

The reason for this - is that if you do not get a good bond using the white - sticky gormmet alone - you may have the water tube inside the ice maker freeze up.

Also once the new water line is installed be sure to secure the line to the metal back of the fridge - so the line will not move. some fridges come with metal hose clamps to do this - otherwise use duct tape

I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.

Replaced defrost thermostat along with temp sensor watched the video on this page simple fix

I visually inspected the compressor and narrowed down the source of the noise to the freezer area. Then I removed the doors and the screws securing the divider panel. Next I removed the bottom panel of the freezer, the styrofoam insullation panel and the evaporator motor. The motor is mounted between two grommets. I replaced the grommet facing the fan blades. The aluminum reflector below the styrofoam insulation panel had also come loose. I reattached it and reassembled the refrigerator in reverse order. The noise is gone!

just put them in the proper shelves

Removed the bottom front cover, under the two doors, unclipped the water line to have better access, removed old Union connector, cut about a 1/4' off each side of the line, pushed both sides of line in Union Connector, checked for leaks, all done.

I read stories from the website how others did it so I figured I would give it a try. I put all the frozen stuff in the refrigerator piled up. Took out the shelves. Took out 2 screws with a socket extension ( nut driver will work fine.) Remove the light bulb. lifted up on the back panel...it came right out. Saw the coils and on top the sensor. Took it off, cut the wires, spliced in the color coded new one ( pink to pink, orange to orange) Stuck it in the top coil in the original position and crossed my fingers! I put all the pieces back easily, restocked the freezer and waited. HOORAY!! My ice cubes are all separate and free. NO frost inside. A very easy fix for $20.

Note: If there is a large amount of ice build up on your coils a hair dryer works great. The drain is on the bottom anyway. Also , you may want to seal around the wire nuts to keep moisture out. I did

easy, the ge part had correct length tubing. used the push in connectors, and a screw driver. much easier than anticipated.

I removed the original shelf, took the glass portion off of the bracing and installed the replacement. The replacement was square and fit just fine so I installed it, put the shelf back on top and it works fine.
It was so easy to order the part through here. There were picture breakdowns so you could see exactly what you needed and order the correct part.

The peice I needed just clipped back on