RSG20DDMBFWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

The internal water line was leaking. I could not find any repair parts for my refrigerator but the GE 5/16 water line was the same size. I purchased 6' of tubing and two unions. Make sure the clean and square. If possible, make the cuts in a spot where you can use the pliers and wrench to tighten the union. I cut approximately 2' out of the existing line and replaced it with the same length of new line using the 2 unions, one on each end. Took about 5 minutes.

found the correct bulbs, the hardest part.
un screwed old bulb.
Screwed in new bulb.
Waa La,
There was light.

Took dispenser out that had a broken auger (plastic ) and replaced it with the new ice dispenser bucket and auger assembly took less than a minute

I pried the ends off handles. I removed the screws from the handles with a torx driver. The new handles fit perfectly and I put the screws in to fasten the handles and then slid the handle caps on.

Removed 4 screws & replace parts.

There are three holes under the front panel in which you push a very small screwdriver in and the front panel comes off.In back of the panel is another panel with 4 screws .1 at each corner.Remove the 4 screws and that will come off exposing the working parts that need to be replaced.This is also a good time to clean anything you can get to in that area.It is very important to remember how everything came out.

The original design is poor. The evaporator fan is mounted in an upright position just below the ice-maker. A plastic grate mounts over the fan assembly to allow for air circulation. Unfortunately, random chips of ice from the ice maker can fall into the fan, causing the fan to shear its blades. Replacement of the fan blade is relatively simple (accept for having to completely unload the freezer and remove all back covers, the ice-maker auger motor assembly, and the metal evaporator cover). In order to mimimze this from reoccuring, I installed a 1/4'' mesh metal screen over the exhaust ports on the cover. Thus far, this has worked well to keep ice chips out of the evaporator fan.

I started by finding thw dispenser door part. On the parts diagram it showed all the other parts I might need to replace. Due to the age of the fridge I decided to replace them all, especially the sprIngs. I made sure to watch all of the videos for each part. Although they overlapped, each one showed the repair in more detail. The repair was as shown. If your frosge has been in service like mine for many years, plan on taking thw whole ice chute and dispenser door assembly out for thorough cleaning. One trick I learned is to take pictures as I disassemble so I can refer back for reassembly. When I put it together, the microswitch didn't work. I ordered that part, the only one I missed initially and installed it when it came in. Everything worked well. There was no video for the torsion spring and alignment of the chute and frame is tricky, make sure you take a picture. Part Select should dona video foe that. The putty knife trick for the trim ring was key. It was only shown in one video for an internal part so glad I watched them all.

Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.

remove back panel inside fridge freezer side, everything frosted, unplug and used a hair dryer

1. Took out defrost heater and the bottom and tested (per this site) tested OK.

2. Then looked at the defrost thermostat, it was swollen with the top coming off. so i new it was bad
3.clipped and stripped the 2 wires, spliced in the new one with wire nuts and sealed them with silicone. All better

I ordered two switches, replaced both with a knife in 10 minutes. Interior light works, thanks.

part arrived very fast. I removed old try and merly inserted new part which was exactly the same as the one being replaced. I GIVE IT 5 STARS !

1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.

Very easy novice could do