GIE21LGTAFBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the lower 2 drawers, lower front grill, rear lower compressor cover. Removed the 2 water lines from the quick connects and screws from the water tank. Pulled lines through the hole in the right rear of the refrigerator and removed tank. Then reversed steps to install new tank. The upper plastic tank cover has 2 buttons on top that are really screws with a plastic cap, these are easily removed with pliers.

ordered replacement part with the understanding that tubing to the water valve could be easily removed. The tubes were carefully removed with some difficulty, and when the new tubes were inserted one leaked. The tube seat was not snug. Therefore a new water valve was purchased. The installation was successful within about 20 minutes. If I were to do the job again, both the water resevoir and valve would be ordered together.

Cut out cracked tubing between valve and where tubing enters into refrigerator. Cut new tubing to length and attach to existing using union.

There are three holes under the front panel in which you push a very small screwdriver in and the front panel comes off.In back of the panel is another panel with 4 screws .1 at each corner.Remove the 4 screws and that will come off exposing the working parts that need to be replaced.This is also a good time to clean anything you can get to in that area.It is very important to remember how everything came out.

remove the front plate. use screwdriver to pry the cover off from the bottom of the cover, remove the wiring from the front cover.remove the 4 screws and pull out the shute. remove three screws from the solonide and replace . very easy fix. save yourself $100.00 labor.

I started by finding thw dispenser door part. On the parts diagram it showed all the other parts I might need to replace. Due to the age of the fridge I decided to replace them all, especially the sprIngs. I made sure to watch all of the videos for each part. Although they overlapped, each one showed the repair in more detail. The repair was as shown. If your frosge has been in service like mine for many years, plan on taking thw whole ice chute and dispenser door assembly out for thorough cleaning. One trick I learned is to take pictures as I disassemble so I can refer back for reassembly. When I put it together, the microswitch didn't work. I ordered that part, the only one I missed initially and installed it when it came in. Everything worked well. There was no video for the torsion spring and alignment of the chute and frame is tricky, make sure you take a picture. Part Select should dona video foe that. The putty knife trick for the trim ring was key. It was only shown in one video for an internal part so glad I watched them all.

after replacing the door seal, I couldn't get the new seal to close and stay closed, so I replaced the closing arm and spring. The door will close now but not tightly and it's loosing cold air. So I made and patented a wooden block to put behind the freezer door handle and the refrigerator door handle to keep the doors closed. Available in black, white and natural tan. (just kidding about the patented part, but not the block)

Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.

Nothing to tell it was just a replacement part that the old part was removed and the new one inserted. Works like a dream Thanks

just had to unscrew old one put the new one in

Very easy novice could do

1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.

Removed icemaker from freezer, remove covers allowing access to dispenser. In the next step I removed the auger and broken shield as one assembly. With assembly out of icemaker it was a simple task of taking the broken shield off of auger and putting the new one on. Reassemble in reverse order as removed.

1. Emptied the crisper pan,
2. Removed it from the refrigerator,
3. Flipped it upside down,
4. Removed the old one by pulling it off,
5. Replaced it with the new OEM part. and
6. Reversed the process.

I went to the internet and found parts select web site. Saw all of the possible fixes for my problem and read all of the other repair stories. My story actually became a journey that is still continuing. I first changed the water filter, but still no water at the dispenser. I next disconnected the coupling at the bottom of the freezer door that carries water to the dispenser and when the dispenser was depressed, water flowed at the coupling, but not at the dispenser. After reconnecting the coupling, I turned the freezer setting to 1 for 4-5 days, but still no water at the dispenser (possibly the line was frozen, but we had recently been away for a week and the water dispenser still supplied water at a freezer setting of 4). Now I am at the point of the journey into replacing parts one at a time to get water. First I ordered the dual water valve for the ice maker and water dispenser. I replaced this valve with instructions from Parts Select and still no water at dispenser. Next I ordered and replaced the switch at the dispenser lever and still no water. Next was the solenoid attached to the ice door, ordered, replaced and still no water at dispenser. I am now at the final part in this repair and that is the $132 circuit board. So I will be ordering this part soon and hopefully that will fix the issue.