GTS22KBPDRCC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

took a little more effort than the video show to remove old module and replace new. Works fine now.

Easy

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

Pulled the two wires out from the access hole in the lower part of the refrigerator. Put them in the spade connectors on the new switch, and pushed the switch into place.

Just as your video described, although due to the age of the fridge, it took a bit longer to remove the defective switch. Your video made this so simple, I can't imagine why we lived with a dark fridge for so long! I was ready to buy a whole new fridge, as repairmen are often nonexistent for small repairs. I am the biggest fan of your company & it's repair video. THANK YOU SO MUCH

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

unplug fridge! removed ice maker. removed the back panel in frezer. I uncliped thermostat; cut wires on thermostat and installed new thermostat.

Replaced all the sensors in both the feezer and refrigerator.Even though it colder now it still is not cold enough.Freezer won't freeze items but is cold and refrigerator still not real cold

I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.

On partselects video the gentleman removes the fan and housing in one piece. This is a great idea but does not work on this brand of ge. I removed the fan housing screw as instructed but left it in place and swiveled it enough to access the retaining screws with a socket driver. Over all swap of the fan was seamless and the video is a gem. Andy

I removed the ice marker first and took the back panel off using a nut driver. Be careful I had wires tied to the back panel, so I moved it like opening a door, right to left. The I removed the fan motor. Be careful not to damage the fan blades. I took the fan blades off and the dust cover. The dust cover was very tight. I had to use a very small screw driver to get it off. When I put the dust cover on the new motor I did not push it down tight. I turned the spindle of the new motor to make sure it turned. The put everything back. Turned it on and it worked. I put the ice marker on last. Take a note of how far the fan blades are on the spindle. The refrigerator now turns off more often.

I removed the ice maker, and removed the upper plastic covers, that just snap in and out of their locations, you can then see the evaporator fan blades. then I removed 2 hex screws, located in the top corners, holding a metal cover in place,lifting up from the bottom of the cover and slowly pulling it out of the freezer compartment. I can now see the screws holding the evaporator fan motor in place. Unplug the connector wiring to the motor and unclip the ground wire from the frame, It is easier to replace the fan blade,lid bumpers, dust cap,grommets, and fan motor this way. while you have everything in easy access, I took time to clean everything and replaced the foam strips, assure tight fit causing excellent air flow, when operating. the cause of the whining and knocking noise, was worn out grommets and bearing going bad in the motor. I reassembled everything in reverse order, being very careful not to get cut or burnt on the fins and tubing in the back of the freezer. Do not drop any thing down the drains while removing and /or reassembling, those items will cause lots of havoc to the lower fan and motor for the refrigerator, lay a towel in the bottom when you start working on it.. I then plugged it back up and there was on noise, works great.

took apart stat. area rplaced wire harness &t.stat simple but im a retired union electrican so wiring was a bit easy

Followed the repair video, was spot on!!

luckly i have a bit of experience in refrigeration im an hvac technician by trade. this repair was a bit tricky in that i did not know at first if it was a Temperature Sensor issue or the main control board. I had tested the defrost termination thermostat and the defrost heater and as i suspected they were ok. Next i wanted to test the thermistors (temp sensors) it is hard to find technical data on these fridges. I needed to test the thermistors resistance @ a certian temperature to ensure they were working properly but where do u get such data? I also wanted to know some information about the logic programmed into the board (i.e when do you initiate defrost etc. . .). I had no such luck so i figured since i tested the defrost heater and thermostat and they were ok and all of the evap fans and such were working i'd order a circuit board and new thermistors. Got the CORRECT PARTS from this site in 2 business days and my fridge is working great! changing the parts was really easy, figuring out which parts to change was the only difficult thing about this job.