PCF25PGSBCC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I lifted the old switch with a flat screwdriver, attached wires, and popped into place. Saved 80 bucks for a repair call.

No self defrost. Measured heater coil with ohm meter which was OK (not open). Ordered 2 temp sensors (there are 2 in freezer, 2 in fresh food sections). The original and the new all meaured ~150 ohms. Replaced one by one. This did not fix problem. Ordered defrost thermostat. Original measured ~150 ohms - new one was ~100 ohms. Unpluged refridgerator. Removed coil panel (4 nut screws) in freezer and light cover (1 small phillips screw). Locate defrost thermostat clipped to top of coils (orange / pink wires). Cut wires and unclipped thermostat. Stripped insulation off of wires and reconnect using wire nuts. Clipped thermostat back to coils. Ran refridgerator without panel on coils to see if coils frosted up again and listend for fans/compressor to stop ( took hours). Opened freezer and viewed glow of defrost heater. Problem resolved.

I followed the instructions found on this website. I removed the control panel by inserting a small Phillips screwdriver in the three holes at its bottom. I used the same screwdriver to pull the dispenser assembly down but could have used a larger one. The microswitch could be seen in the assembly at that point and was easily removed by opening the "fingers" that held it in place. I attempted to pull one of the terminals off without using a pair of needle-nosed pliers and ripped the wires right out of the terminal(I was able to find a replacement at Radio Shack). Low and behold after reinstalling the new part, it did not take care of the problem.

My problem is the water dispenser does work intermittently. When we place the glass in position and hit the lever, the lights in the control panel go off and no water is dispensed. My next guess may be the water valve or the control panel. The icemaker makes ice but I have had problems with it dispensing for nearly a year now.

New ice maker only used 2 screws and the old one had 3. This was no problem. The old ice maker had already been removed. Just loosen the 3 screws and unplug the cord to ice maker. Only problem with ice maker was with the cord, which I had to use the supplied adapter. It was too long and in the way when reinstalling the ice bin. The ice bin had a small notch area on the bottom left. I used a plastic tie to bundle the cord into the notch. Carefully placed ice bin and no problem. The first part I received was damaged and was replaced 2 days later by a brand new part. Customer service charged for the replacement part but said they would credit my charge card within 2 to 3 weeks for the damaged part. Its been a week and if they follow thru like the said I woild give Part Select 5 Stars for service and Parts.

went online to an appliance repair site and found out that this model has problems with the damper malfunctioning. went to partselect and ordered what I needed and it arrived in two days. to replace the damper you just remove the light at the top of the frige and the cover around it . the damper assembly only has 2 screws and is easy to remove.

I had lost the provided bypass filter plug. I decided to replace it with your part.

There's a plastic cup part in the very rear of the ice bucket, that fits around the corkscrew thing that moves the ice toward the front of the bucket, where it can either get chopped up for crushed ice or just drop down as whole cubes as the case may be.

Well, that cheap plastic thing busted on our ice maker shortly after we bought it. Why GE chooses such thin, flimsy plastic for this important part is beyond me. I decided to replace the entire bucket assembly, for $105 rather than just the plastic part that was broken for $30. I never did figure how to take the thing apart to remove and replace that one part anyway. GE direct was expensive, so I finally found Part Select and was pleased to see that the bucket assembly was available for significantly less. When it arrived, I simply slid out the old ice bucket and slid in the new one. Voila! It's great to be able to have crushed, let alone any ice, automatically generated, again.

Remove the two nuts holding the top of the unit to the side of the freezer using a 1/4 in nutdriver. Pull the unit out and unplug it from the back of the freezer. Remove all pieces of the broken stripper. The replacement part fits onto a peg on the back of the icemaker and into a slot. Bend into place and slide into position.

Followed previous instructions from a previous post. Inserted small screwdriver in the 2 outer holes up under the face plate to remove it then removed 4 screws holding the inner assembly which allowed access to the flapper assembly. Replaced it and reassembled everything. Problem solved

We couldn't get the other connector loose from one end of the tubing so he said just cut it and so we did and attached the connector. I now have water again in my fridge and took the sticky note down "don't use the water" as it had leaked for a year...... Thanks!

Your website was very easy to use and the product shipped very promptly. It was great experience. Thanks!

So I replaced a burnt out defrost heater; replaced the thermostat for good measure and STILL the freezer compartment was freezing up. WHY didn't I look more closely at the ice making system sooner!!?? Thought about it for a while and decided that it had to be that the solenoid in the water valve was NOT shutting off water flow to ice maker (overflowing the icemaker and running over & down interior of freezer compartment making an icberg).

Took off about 4-5 backcover screws with one size nut driver. Moved to a size larger driver to remove 1 screw holding on the water valve. And what some people don't realize is that you can push in the connectors (push them down) and THEN pull the water lines out as long as you're careful and someone hasn't already tugged on the waterlines with some force. You don't have to cut the lines off at the valve. Put the water lines in the new valve and put one screw back in it; then 4-5 backcover screws and you're done!!! At most 15 minutes...that is if you want to clean the condensor unit located behind the backcover (on the newer models within the last 4-6 years).

EASY!!! Do it yourself and save a BUNCH of money. If you're getting a flooded freezer compartment or icebergs created in there then check whenever you hear the icemaker drawing in water and see if water is running down the interior.....problem solved!

just unscrewed the 3 screws, attached the rounded plug that came with the unit and screwed back only 2 screws. ice magic in about a couple of hours

I removed the screws for the inner door and removed inner lining. Then took out the ice dispenser in the door. Took off control panel on the front of the ice panel. Removed the rusted parts and put in new parts. Put all parts back the way it came apart. In retrospect.... I could have possibly replaced the parts from the front panel but by taking apart the door...I had to thaw out the inner panel and insulation with in the door.

The ice machine auger blade broke a chunk off. I decided to try to replace it myself. I bought the new auger blade and then sat there and stared at it and the ice machine for a few, trying to figure out how to change out the part. Turns out it was a qute lengthy process. The auger is threaded on one end and the ice chopping blades are on it. So I had to take each blade off the old one and put it on the new one. The blades have to be positioned just right on the shaft so it's best to just draw a line down over all the blades so as to put them on the new auger successfully. The problem I had was the end cap that screwed on the end of the shaft. It was the part I ordered here. It is made of plastic with plastic threads and at first I couldn't figure out to get it off. Turns out the threads are opposite normal. By the time I figured that out, I had just about destroyed the cap using pliers to try to unscrew it. There is a washer and half moon clip that fastens on this end nut so if you mess the nut up, chances are you won't be able to get the half moon clip to go back on. I finally did it right and now how the ice maker working right again. A hard part for me was figuring out how to set the spring shaft that works a lever to either give cubed ice or crushed. I had to keep fiddle with it before I finally got that right. At first I was only getting crushed ice even with the cubed setting and then only getting cubed ice with the crushed ice setting. After some fiddling, I got both to work but to this day can't figure out what changes from the crushed setting to the cubed setting.