RCE25RGBBFSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

took off the front panel, removed the auger and front piece, removed the pin and spring and installed them on to the new piece and then put everything back together

The right side of the three left three tines must be shaved about 1/8" to allow the ice remover blades to pass unimpeded.The part should be manufactured better.

Once the icebin is removed, the disassembly is pretty straight forward:
-Remove all ice and allow the ice bin to reach room temperature, because frozen plastic will crack easily.
-Remove the 2 philips screws on the bottom front and release the 2 tabs on the top of the cover unit.
-Disengage the steel rod, but first make note of the spring position.
-Lift the inner assembly out from the main front bin unit, which will remove the ice screw in the process.
-Disengage the ice screw and carefully twist the crusher plate around the screw.
-Manipulate the new crusher plate around the flanges of the screw, be patient, as this can be a time consuming endeavor until you finally find the right twisting location to enable the new crusher plate to clear the flanges of the screw.
-Once in position, reattach the entire assembly and rod back into place.
-Just take your time and make note of all removed component locations.

Ordered new solenoid so the flap would close. That did the trick.

The allan wrench pushes into the holes nder the front control plate and it pops off. Unplug the wires and set aside. Four screws removes the next piece and the "flaper" door is visable.

First I removed the ice tray rack lifting it out of the way to reach the back cover of the fan. Then, the whole back inside panel had to be removed. Two screws removed the fan and bracket from the freezer unit. The missing bumper lid just snapped into place. Replaced everything in reverse order. Pretty easy job.

The only difficult part was not knowing which parts had to be removed to gain access to the flapper to replace it. It appeared as if the frame around the control panel would have to be removed as well as the door handle; we tried but were not able to remove the frame. It turned out that the panel just popped out with the frame in place. Once we had access to the flapper, it was easy to replace it. The repair fixed the problem.

Replacing was easy. Cleaning took the longest. Order screws with parts, I could not find them at the hardware store. I suggest a coat of oil (3 in one) on the solenoid/piston surfaces. I probably did not have to replace them. The rust was inhibiting the piston movement. Some steel wool and oil would have probably fixed it. If the flap closing starts sounding softer, I'm going to take it apart and clean it first.

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.

looked at the video you supplied for repair.. that made it so easy to repair the problem. I felt quite confident in myself after the video.The repair went smoothly and the refridgerator wotks super thank you so much Rick

Following the advice of others on this site, I popped out the control panel by pushing up through the 2 outer-most holes on the under-side of the panel (the middle hole is unused). I installed the new solenoid exactly as shown in the PartSelect video. The new crank, spring, and flapper installed easily as well; I did apply a little grease to the hinge points on the crank to ensure no binding. I also installed a new microswitch. The wires are best removed from the old switch with a needlenose pliers. The old switch looked like it had some grease on the switch (where it makes contact with the cup lever) so I put some grease on the new switch as well. All-in-all, very easy and the frig works like new. It's nice to hear the flapper slam shut 4 seconds after dispensing ice.

I replaced the original solenoid, which had rusted into one solid piece. OMG how easy was that!

Went on this site, found out many others like me had the flap door stuck open problem, it would not shut after you went for ice. I needed a new solenoid that opens when the ice is dispenced and closes afterwards not allowing the warm ambient air to come up the shoot which frosts the ice and melts it. It shipped QUICK and now I have a working ice maker dispenser from the outside. Its been 2 YEARS of opening the door and reaching into the ice maker bin for ice! Thanks PartSelect

Replaced crusher disp, but had to order the back plate(didn't realize it was two piece) waiting for that part. It was very easy to do. Had to use two drivers to pop out of ice bucket.

I had to replace the whole tray. Required complete disassembly and reassembly. Simple to do. No problems whatsoever!!