GTJ17BCC2RSA General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Replaced temp controller

Inspected freezer because food was not freezing, getting cold, but not freezing. Noticed fan was not blowing air, but making a little motor noise, like it's trying to turn. Removed cover panel, and found the fan blade rubbing on the panel, fan shaft was worn out and very loose, wobley. That told me the fan needed to be replaced. Found part on the GE Partselect website and ordered the parts via the website order process. This was easy. The parts were shipped quickley and were at my front door the next day. Couldn't believe it. The actual process was very easy: Remove cover, remove bracket holding fan motor, remove and replace motor, re-assemble parts. About 20-25 minutes from start to finish. Freezer is working like it's suppose to.

Replaced icemaker assembly. Only 3 Phillips screws to remove the old assembly. Pretty much an exact swap. Was easy to replace but the connecting cable on the new replacement assembly wasn't very easy to make fit. Had to force it into a location that would be out of the way and allow everything to operate properly. That connecting cable should be more flexible and adapt to the fridge a little more friendly.

instalation was very easy - but the part was 3/4 inch to long and a 1/32 inch to wide.Trimmed it with the "faithfull"
Dremel and it works!The instalation part of the "job" was less then 10 min.

Open the freezer panel which attached with screwws and locate the defrost thermmostate behind the back pannel. Cut off the old thermostat wires and connect the new wires.

Did the repair just as the instruction said, once I read it. The part I didn't read was that if the plug was under the ice maker, you had to take the wire out of the clip on the side. So, had to dismount ice maker, unclip wire, remount maker, plug it in. Still under 30 minutes. Thank you.

First I removed the assembly by pulling it out of the back of the refrigerator at freezer height. Remove the clip from the old housing. I had already purchased the sticky pad that went on the back of the housing when I replace. After replacing your clip back onto the waterholes you could push it back into the refrigerator with no problem.

Very easy. Bought a 6-1 screw driver for 1/4” and 5/16” nut drivers ends. 4 screws to remove panel that covers evaporator coil and motor. Remove the foam piece 2 screws, unplug wire plastic clip and motor come off. 2 screws to remove from bracket, replace motor. Put back together and reinstall. Watch video - it helped but very easy to do even if you don’t watch common sense is all you need.

Disconnect the refrigerator, remove & installed new fan evaporator motor

thats what I did is remove the teo screws and took the old single outlet valve out. And put the new one in and put the screws back in. First turned off the water and put the water back on after I was threw and no leaks.

The overload protector was the problem. It plugs into the side of the compressor and the run capacitor plugs into it.

If you pull the overload protector and it rattles when you shake it, that's probably your diagnosis.

The replacement is different from the original and the wire connectors are different. Hold the thing in the same orientation as if it were plugged in. The vertical connector goes to the neutral wire, which on my fridge is orange. The horizontal connector is for the overload, which for mine is black and white. If you have a schematic you should verify the wires yourself.

Anyway, the refrigerator now works like new.

Removed the old water valve from back of refrigerator by using a screwdriver. Pulled water line off old valve that runs into the fridge and inserted it into the new part. I used a pair of pliers to take off water line that runs into the water valve from the house. Screwed the water line back onto the new valve. Took about 10 minutes.

After removing all items from the broken top, I removed both drawers and crisper top. I then slid the new top in place and replaced the drawers which easily slid into the grooves in the underside of the top.

I'm not a DIY-er, and wasn't sure a 20 year old refrigerator was worth the repair, but for $30 I could afford to be wrong. The swap is pretty intuitive, especially in my case since the problem was that the water tube from the valve to the ice maker had detached from the coupling. So I didn't have to cut anything off, just inserted the tube into the new valve. Reconnected the supply line, screwed the assembly back on the refer, and Bob's your uncle. Other than unloading some canned goods to lighten the refer, longest process was finding the right size nut driver in my disorganized tool tray. Be aware, there are NO instructions included with the part. Found a good video on you tube that confirmed the obvious. Glad I took a shot!

I popped out the old plastic shelf and slid in the new one. It was self explanatory and took less than one minute with no tools.