GDL22KCWBSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

With help from this site, It was one of three things. I thought it might be what this site suggested the most common and it was. the valve in back of refrigerator at bottom. Water comming to it, but not getting past. Ordered part. Was here in a few days. Real easy to change out. A few screw / bolts and one wire that fit only one way. I did have to bend new bracket to make it fit. Now have lots of ice cubes!

Replaced valve kit and let it run. Took a day for the fill line to thaw and has been making ice like a champ.

replaced valve.

Hi, My furnace when out when I was away, frozen water lines were repaired, but my ice maker line was turned off, the valve split open. Summer is coming I want ice! I found the right replacement, ordered it, watched the free video, did the repair. It was so easy. And I saved an expensive service call. I am drinking a soda with ice from the ice maker as I type this! Thanks for solving my problem, I will be back next time something needs a part! Bob

There were only 3parts listed to check omed out the defrost heater and thermostat ....thermistor checked bad ordered replacement took less than 2 minutes to replace after I defrosted it again runs fine

Watched a youtube on capacitors- though on a motor with a pulley, the symptoms were the same, motor running and pulley not turning-bad capacitor. Took a chance for a 17+ dollar part vs a new compressor. It worked.

I ordered the part using the model number. The part arrived very quickly! Thanks for being so efficient!

Googled the model number of refrigerator with symptoms of "refrigerator wont run". Parts select web site appeared on my screen, opened Parts Select website, Partselect said probable cause of my frige symptom was that the run capacitor usually burns out 51% of the time. They were correct with the diagnosis 100%. I ordered the run capacitor for $23.00, installed it in 10 minutes, refrigerator runs good as new. Thank you for saving me cost of service call. I probably saved $200 or more. I will use Partselect again with my next problem. THANK YOU,

Googled the problem, came across this site where I learned what needed to be done to fix. Checked the part price, looked just for couriosity at the price from GE, it was WAY more expensive. Ordered the part, it arrived super fast, and shipping was next to nothing. The part came in, I replaced it. I made my husband so proud!!!

I first disconnected the plug from the wall outlet. I then turned off the water supply to the back of the refrigerator. I then disconnected the two lines to the water inlet valve and removed the nut that holds the bracket to the refrigerator. I removed the water valve and installed the new one the same way in about 5-10 minutes. It was very easy, but, unfortunely that was not the problem.

turn off ice maker Shut off supply to fridge unplugged fridge unhooked water supply line unplugged harness plug to valve.

Replacement of the single outlet valve kit went very well. But, water was still not dispensing. I checked if the valve was working by taking the following steps after installing the new valve: unplugging the refrigerator, disconnecting the water line from the underside of the new valve (line to the ice maker), putting a container under the valve to potentially catch water, plugging the refrigerator back in to start the cycle of the ice maker (remember that the cycle will start only if the temperature cold enough). I saw that the valve worked by dispensing water for a short period of time into the container. Taking my chances (with my limited experience), I disassembled the ice maker in the freezer and found that the water line was plugged with ice. So, I really didn't need to replace the valve after all. But, I'm glad I gained some experience.

Easy. Followed the video instrucations. the part was right there next to the compressor.

Unplugged the refrigerator first....then on the inside of the fridge, I popped the temp sensor cover off (upper LH side) and exposed the old sensor. I snipped off the old sensor about 3" down from the end and connected the new sensor (which I trimmed down to about 3" long) with some heat shrink wire nuts/connectors. Let the fridge run for a day or so and confirmed the problem was solved! Oh yeah, there was no way to tell the 2 wires apart (power vs. ground) on the sensor. However there was a manufacturer's stamp on the wires. So note the orientation of the text and mark one of the wires with a sharpie on both the old and new sensor before trimming. This will give you a reference for which wires to connect when adding the new sensor to the old wires.

Changed out the valve the water line hooks to in back of fridge and bingo that was the problem , less them 10 min job.