GDSC0KCXARWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

After unplugging the refrigerator-freezer and emptying out the contents I snipped off the refrigerator thermistor, stripped off the wire insulation and used a butt splice. That did not solve the problem. So, a day later I unplugged the refrigerator again, transferred the freezer contents to a newly purchased small freezer unit, took off the back panel inside the freezer portion, and saw a large amount of ice build-up on the silver coils inside. This ice was quickly melted off using a hair dryer and packing towels below this accumulated ice. Then I snipped off the two freezer thermister sensors and the defrost sensor. I soldered the wires together for a hard splice, wrapped the individual wires with rubber electrical tape, and then wrapped that with plastic electrical tape. After re-assembly, the refrigerator-freezer has been working flawlessly for over a week at optimal temperatures.

Took out freezer rack took off the back panel also light bulb found the DEFROST THERMOSTAT cut the 2 wires remove the thermostat strip the wires on the new thermostat splice the to wires together with wire nut wrapped wire nuts with electrical tape put new thermostat back were the old came off of put panels back in place also the racks and bulb plunged in the power and guess what it works like a Champ with in 1 hour making ice and going through defrost cycle nice Thank You Guys for your video and the how to do Thanks Ken

take the metal cover off the defrost thermostat is on top of the coil take the thermostat off from the coil cut the two wires take the wire and strip the ends off take the new thermostat the wires are color coded wire them together put the thermostat back on coil your done real easy

After turning off power and unthawing back cover so I could remove it. Then I had remove all of the ice from the coils with a hair dryer. After everything was unthawed I removed the temperature sensor from the coil tubing and cut the wires. I skinned the wires on the new sensor and crimped a butt splice on each wire. I skinned each wire in the freezer then crimped butt splices to each wire. After taping the connections with black tape I reinstalled the back cover and turned on the power. So far it has been two weeks and there Is no frost and the refridgerator is working fine.

Per vidios

This was so easy I think it took me 2 minutes. I am not very mechanically inclined but that didn't matter! Works perfect thank you!

Removed shelf from refrigerator, screwed on new shelf support, replaced shelf. Got a kiss from my wife for fixing her 'fridge.' Easy!

I lifted the dairy bin up and out. From the top, I inserted the right peg of the new dairy door in place, then gently pushed out on the left side of the bin and down on the left side of the door until the left peg of the door popped into place. Put the repaired dairy bin back at the top of the refrigerator door and pushed it down into place.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

Pop out switch, pull wires, attach wires to new switch and pop back in. Easy smeasy!

Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.

remove shelf above tray to access rail. remove broken rail. use screws from broken rail to attach rail to shelf.

I removed the top shelf and then the existing slide. I replaced the slide and then the shelves.

The only hitch was the need for a special screwdriver which cost $5.

with a jewelry screwdriver I pried the lock tab in and pulled switch down carefully, the hardest part was that the power wire connector was stuck on good but the pliers and the jewelry screwdriver was its match for a bout 5 minute for one connection a simple pull off prong connection. After the wire connected back to switch it popped back in SNAPP

Needed a square head screw driver.
Appliance man wanted $80 to come out plus parts. Part cost $20 and took 10 minuyto out on. Had to empty half the refrigerator. That took longer than the time to fox