GBS22HBRBBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Followed the partselect video on how to replace motherboard and the video described the exact replacement procedure.

Tom Paone at quality@applianceeducator.com. was very helpful at recommending that a solution to my problem was to replace the ASM Main Domestic Motherboard. I ordered and received the board in two days from PartSelect. After unplugging the refrigerator I used a nut driver to remove the three screws that held the motherboard cover in place and then disconnected all of the connections to the board. Next, using a pair of needle nose pliers, I gently squeezed on the white plastic anchor retainers that fastened the motherboard to the refrigerator. While doing this at each anchor I gently pulled on the motherboard until it was separated from the retainer anchor post. There were four retainers total. I removed the old board and in the reverse order installed the new board. All of the connectors were easy to match to the new board because the wiring connectors coming out of the back of the refrigerator were only long enough to hook to the correct connectors on the circuit board. There was an extra connector that I didn't use on the new board and also the connection for the ground wire used a ring connector instead of a spade connector. To remedy this I simply used the ground wire assembly from my old board. I also took the time to remove the lower cover on my refrigerator and cleaned the condensing coil with a vacuum cleaner. The total time to replace the motherboard and clean the condensing coil was about 20 minutes from start to finish. This repair solved the problem with my evaporator fan. A big thanks to Tom Paone at quality@applianceeducator.com. for helping diagnosis my problem and suggesting the correct replacement part. I saved between $100.00 to $150.00 not having to call out an appliance repair person to fix my refrigerator.

i Removed back panels and then I removed the faulty circuit board. Installed new circuit board and presto everything worked. I can't believe how easy it was but on the other hand I couldn't believe a refrigerator had such a sophisticated part..

It was a very simple installation after reading about everyone else having the same "noise" problem with their GE side by side refrigerator.

I simply; pulled the refrigerator out, turned off the power, took off the 3 screws to remove the plate, unhooked the 5 or so connections with my hands, put the new part in, hooked the connections up, put the plate back on, plugged the refrigerator back in, and slid in back into place. It took around 10 minutes to do, very simple.

Had friend assist in pulling fridge out from it's area so that I could access back. Unplugged unit. For the bottom freezer units (mine) the compartment containing the main control board is middle of the fridge and on the left. Took off the protective metal plate and then followed the video demonstrating the repair. One other discrepancy between the video and the instructions that came with the new main control board, is that the instructions suggested locating and cutting some other green wire to the compressor unit. I chose not to do that, as the unit was otherwise working fine as is prior to my main control board going south.

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.

I followed instructions in your video. at the beggining I hesitated because the original card had two fewer ports than the new one. but after a call to a Partselect representative I confirm that I had the right card. after that it was a matter of connet wires to the ports. 1 week later my refrigerator is running smooth. Thaks a to Partselect I have saved a bunch of money.

Removed the old control board at the rear of the refigerator, installed the replacement board.

Received main board in less than two days. back of frig. small panel removed 3 screws, removed cover exposing main board with needle plires squeesed 4 plastic tips to release board unpluged conectors, reinstaled new board, worked perfict. Thank you for your helpfull web site. Bob.

Disconnected power at outlet. Removed three screws from access panel. Disconnected six electrical connections, compressed three plastic retaining pins and removed board. Installed new board and reconnected connections, installed three screws on access panel and turned the fridge on. No more crazy evaporator motor noise

diagnosis, fan would run more than normal, compressor would only come on sometimes, check line voltage to the mother board (yes !!! a mother board with a relay for the compressor built onto it )! check the switched voltage out to the compressor. If a/c 115 in but no a/c 115 out while the fan is on replace the mother board. Remember this is a LIVE VOLTAGE TEST, BE CAREFUL HOW AND WHAT YOU TOUCH YOUR LIFE IS NOT WORTH SAVING A REPAIR BILL !!!
I suppose if if went long enough in this condition the result would be fan runs a lot but it does not get cold.
Hope this helps
God Bless
Captain Scott Cousins

After determining it was not a problem with the defrost cycle, ( this refrigerator had no separate defrost timer), I ordered the main circuit board with the hope that the relays built into it were hanging up and not properly turning on the compressor, (a chattering sound could be heard). Ten screws to take the access cover to the board off and a few connectors later and it was as good as new. Took about ten minutes!

narrowed it down to the circuit board...removed cover panel after unplugging frig. read directions thouroughly.... removed cables attached to old board. this is the tricky part removing the board from the plastic clips....broke two pulling old board off popped new Board onto remaining plastic mounting clips and reattached cables plugged frig in and got a shock as my shoulder touched the board. everything seemed to be working and but cover back on....viola all done.

Replaced Temperature Sensor and now it is getting cold.

Disconnected power, removed screws from cover on back of refrigerator, unpluged wire connectors, squezzed four support fasteners and removed old board. Put new board on support fasteners, reconnected wiring, replaced cover, pluged power back in, turned controls back on. It wored fine.