TPX24PPBGCC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

The first sign of trouble was when the water dispenser would continue to come out after you let up on the button. Then water and ice stopped. Changed the secondary inlet value and the main water valve, as well as a 1/4" water line running to the freezer (it was cracked). Water is working. Ice maker is working better than ever. New life for an aged refrige.

Removed the ice maker from the freezer. Removed the switch. Tested the switch with a multimeter. Ordered a new switch. Replaced it in the box. Installed the ice maker ( 3screws and electric cord plug. It works. Details available on the internet.

Ordered the replacement parts-both water valves, printed the schmatic, then removed and replaced both parts. Was fairly straight forward, rmeember to unplg the fridge before you start. Problem solved, should be good for another 10 yrs.
Hard water prob caused the corrosion. Also replaced the water hose while I was back there, water tastes 100% better.

After trying to reconnect a flexible hose to the water valve several times I stripped the connection to the water valve, causing it to have a slow leak.

Twice I tried to have an appliance parts store order the part without success. (I even brought them the part from the refrigerator to show them how it looked. ) they ordered the wrong part two times and then said they could not figure out what part I needed.
Finally my wife and I went on line, keyed in the model number and searched for parts of the refrigerator related to the ice maker. We saw the correct part and ordered it ourselves.

It was a success. I changed the part within 30 minutes and the ice maker has been working ever since. I would search and find a part on my own again before trusting someone who supposedly sold parts as their business.

First, I moved the refrigerator out from the wall, unplugged from the electrical outlet, disconnected the copper tubing to the refrigerator, removed screws holding the cardboard backing, removed the nuts holding the assembly to the refrigerator and pulled it out. At that point, I disconnected the tubing units and wiring connectors from the assembly one by one attaching to the new assembly as I went.

However, this was not possible in the case of two wiring connectors. Evidently, the replacement part was made differently than the original. I had to rewire the replacement part as it allowed and then put the reconnected assembly back in place. I then placed the cardboard panel and reattached the copper tubing. Everything is working and no more leaks!

Ordered the icemaker replacement. unplugged the unit, followed the simple instructions and got it done in less than 30 minutes. It did take a LONG time to start making ice. But it's working now.

I bought a Flapper replacement part from Parts Select. I installed it following their very complete on-line video directions. Their complete and easy to follow directions made my job very easy, and the work was completed without any problems and just as good as if it were done by a professional repair person. I am proud of my work, it couldn't have been done without their video insructions. Also I got delivery of the part within two days of my order. I will alway look for Parts Select any time I need an applicance repaired. Thanks to Parts Select!

Procedure for Replacing the Ice Chute Plate
1. Turn off the power.
2. Snap off the outside trim ring. Use a plastic screwdriver to avoid scratching the cabinet.
3. Locate the three small holes below the control panel facing, just above ice chute. The center hole is not used. With a small, blunt, object (wire – blunted nail) that is slightly smaller than the holes, push up rather firmly up through the outer holes to release front control panel.
4. Remove the three wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out of retaining clip. Use caution: Excessive force will break clips.
5. Release the secondary panel by removing four screws (one in each corner).
6. Remove the flap assembly.
7. Clean all accessible areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. Rinse the cleaned area with clear water and thoroughly dry everything before re-assembling the panel.
8. Install the new flap assembly.
9. Re-installed everything in the reverse order and check the functionality.
10. Order a spare ice chute flapper to be ready for the next event.

First Remove the screw and cover from the left top front of the fridge using a Phillips Screw Driver # 2
Then using a nut driver 1/4 of inch (or Socket set)
remove the two nuts holding the door hinge keeping the door in closed position. Now unplug the electrical connector between the door and the fridge body(Simply pulling it apart) Now hold the door from the middle and raise it up so that it can slide out from the bottom hole, on the main body
Now place the door on a table or a flat surface(Put may be a sheet or some thing to prevent the finish from getting scratched) Now remove the nuts around the inner panel of the door(nut Driver or Socket set) Remove the old lining and discard .Install the new lines and then replace every thing in the reverse order.
Note : Before tighting the top nuts of the door, make sure you keep the door aligened so you would not have to do it after completeing the job.

I ordered the wrong part, the ice maker assembly, because your diagram was not marked properly. I returned the part and you credited my account. Thanks. Ordered the new bucket. It worked fine. Now I have ice and crushed Ice whenever I want. Thanks.

p.s. I didnt use any tools, but to satisfy you I select nut driver.

Was concerned that new icemaker was quite a bit different than the one we were replacing. Called GE to confirm it was correct.

Went ahead and installed the unit, using the supplied electric cable adapter.

A little difficult to deal with the extra cable, but everything worked OK and it's making ice normally.

Found broken pieces of deflector in delivered ice. Removed dispenser, carefully disassembled it, marking fasteners, sprimgs, and levers. Local repaimen say no replacement part available, must replace entire ice maker @ $350. Found exact part in your online reference, ordered at price of $3.76, part arrived two days later--perfect fit, exactly same as original. Reassembled, and it works exactly like new. Family very happy. Good job!!!!!

I pulled the refrigerator away from the wall and turned off the water to the refrigerator and unplugged it from the wall. After removing the icebucket from the freezer I located the mounting screws, loosened them, unplugged the electrical connection below the icemaker and carefully removed it from the freezer. I unpacked the replacement icemaker, matched it against the original and attached the electrical connection adapter. Using the slots provided on the new icemaker I placed it over the mounting screws after aligning the water inlet pipe properly. I tightened the mounting screws while maintaining the icemaker in a level position. I plugged in the electrical connector. Then I replaced the icebucket, plugged in the refigerator back into the 110VAC outlet, turned on the water and repositioned the refrigerator in it's normal position.

put adapter on and replace filter

- Disconnect the valve assembly and remove electrical connection to water dispenser valve to prevent accidental water discharge

- Disconnect tubing from valve assembly, remove and keep compression nut.

-Disconnect tubing from junction to door tube remove and keep compression nut

-Remove screws used to mount reservoir, pull tubing into main refrigerator compartment and remove old reservoir and tubing.

- Note that one of the tubes on the new reservoir is 2' too short.

- Go to hardware store to purchase 5/16" universal tubing compression junction.

- Install reservoir and feed tubing through holes in main refrigerator compartment.

- Route tubing through woven tubing protectors and clips.

- Trim tubing to length and install in valve using old compression nut.

- Splice the piece of tubing trimmed from supply side of reservoir to the outlet side tube using the fitting purchased from the hardware store.

- Connect end of tubing to existing junction using old compression nut.

- Re-connect wires to valve solonoid and test for leaks.

- Re-install valve assembly to refrigerator frame.