ETS22XBPDRBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove the shelves then remove the back by removing the two screws at the top of the panel. Locate the temperature sensor on top of the coil. Cut the wires and replace with the new one. Use wire nuts and electrical tape to reconnect the wires.

When the condensor fan motor started making those "Dying Mouse" noises I knew it was time to replace it. So I removed the fan motor and re-oiled it's lubricating packing, reinstalled it and promptly ordered a repacement moter online from PartSelect. I've ordered parts from them in the past with great results and rapid shipping. So now the "Dying Mouse" has been evicted and my wife is happy. And everyone should know, ( If Momma ain't happy, Then nobody's happy.) Thanks again PartSelect for your fast, reliable parts source with very reasonable prices.

Water still came out the front when pressed, but no ice. After removing the Ice container, & the top shelf I noted the icemake inlet was iced over. I turned off the icemaker, turned down the freezer temp, & allowed Ice to melt, but problem returned. I next removed the back bottom cover & cleaned the condenser coils, & drain pan; they were extremely dirty. Then I noticed the condensor fan was not on. After getting the nomenclature plate info off the condenser fan motor I left the back cover off, & put an external fan to blow on the coils as a temporaty fix until I could get the part & replace it. During that time the refrig functioned normally. 3 days later my condenser fan motor I ordered from Parts Select arrived & I installed it.

replace sensor in refriger.

Unplugged refrigerator and removed rear cover. Removed the two attaching cap screws from the mounting bracket. Removed fan blade by sliding it off the shaft, disconnected wiring plug and removed the motor. Removed the rubber grommets from the old motor and installed on the new unit. Set the new unit in place and reinstall the fan blade, mounting bracket and screw into place. Reconnect the wiring harness. To replace the relay, simply remove the wire clip from the relay cover, slide the relay off the connecting pins on the compressor and disconnect the wires. Slide the new relay into place, reconnect the wires and replace the cover.

pull out the slide pan lh and replace for the part

removed the inside fridge electrical panel and swapped switches

I removed cover above the light from the back of the freezer. I removed the fan and clipped the wire leads, after disconnecting the breaker to the fridge. I connected the wires with wire "union" from Radio Shack. Could have used wire nuts. I put the breaker on to check that it was running, then put the cover back on. However, to fix the build up of ice on the coils in the back of the freezer, I also replaced the thermisor and the heater coil after defrosting the coils with a hair dryer. Both were easy repairs and the fridge works fine.

easy pry out, disconnect wiring, connect on new switch and press in switch.

Unplugged the refrigerator first....then on the inside of the fridge, I popped the temp sensor cover off (upper LH side) and exposed the old sensor. I snipped off the old sensor about 3" down from the end and connected the new sensor (which I trimmed down to about 3" long) with some heat shrink wire nuts/connectors. Let the fridge run for a day or so and confirmed the problem was solved! Oh yeah, there was no way to tell the 2 wires apart (power vs. ground) on the sensor. However there was a manufacturer's stamp on the wires. So note the orientation of the text and mark one of the wires with a sharpie on both the old and new sensor before trimming. This will give you a reference for which wires to connect when adding the new sensor to the old wires.

Took out shelf, unscrewed old track, screwed on new track. Only thing is not a standard flat or Phillips screw head so if you don't have a star head bit, you are out of luck.

I took the pan out, replaced the bar with the new part - slide pan RH - and I was back in business. It couldn't have been easier.

just took out old one and slid new one in.

There were only 3parts listed to check omed out the defrost heater and thermostat ....thermistor checked bad ordered replacement took less than 2 minutes to replace after I defrosted it again runs fine

I started removing the switch by prying on the right side with a screwdriver, when it emerged enough I used pliers to finish removing it. I then unpluged rhe wires from the bad switch and pluged them on the new switch and "poped" it into the hole.