TFT26JWDAAA General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the door from the bottom hinge assembly by removing the top hinge assembly.
1. Installed the cam to the bottom of the door.
2. Installed hinge and bottom pin & cam to the refrigerator.
3. Reinstalled door and adjusted front roller height to make door close better.

My right door (food door on side-by-side) stopped closing - I found pieces of the plastic washer (cam riser) on the floor. After reading the stories on the web I decided to order the new part - and YES there are many universal parts that work for Kenmore/GE. The part comes with two parts (hinge and cam riser) - you should install both to insure a good fit. I took 3 blocks of wood and a shim and supported the bottom center of the door, unscrewed the hinge off and dropped it out (3 minutes). The "only" tough part was unscrewing the cam riser from the bottom of the door - it required a very small socket and you will only have about 6-8 inches of work space. Be sure you have a socket that fits before you take the hinge off. The entire repair took less than 30 minutes and contrary to some of the posts, you DO NOT need to take the door off. Good as new again!

Replaced dispenser door flapper by following the do it yourself video in this site. It was really easy. Just be careful when removing the dispenser black bezel. I broke one of the little tabs when taking it off.

I unloaded the door and took the cover off at the top of the upper hinge (1 phillips screw) I then unbolted the upper hinge (2-28mm bolts) and lifted the door off. I was surprised how light it was. I laid the door down and installed the new cam riser on the door. I then unbolted the lower hinge (2-28mm bolts)and installed the new hinge.
I lubed the 2 hinges with vaseline and put the door back on the lower hinge. I then reinstalled the upper hinge and cover. It took about 15 minutes, and a lot of that was cleaning up. Oh yes, to get at the lower hinge you have to pull off the lower grate that covers the coils. It just snaps off and on. It was a very easy job.

Emptied refrigerator door shelves. Supported door with 4x4 blocks. Removed old door hinge and replaced with new door hinge and cams. Pleased with end result and dealing with PartSelect.

Very quick and easy repair. Took off cover to access valve using standardr screw driver. After shutting off water supply to valve disconnected copper water supply line. Used a large towel to catch any residual water in line. Removed two water lines on valve use plies if more than hand tight to loosen. Removed screw holding valve in place, removed valve and disconnected wires (be sure power to frig is off least you get a shock. Reverse proceedure to install new valve. new valve has simple push in connections for plastic water lines. Install two electrical adpaters and electric lines. Mount valve with screw, connect copper water line. Turn water back on and check for leaks. Turn power on and check for proper water running at dispenser. Again check for any leaks. No leaks, install cover and you are done.

Followed the online video. Unplugged refrigerator, removed trim piece, lifted control board cover, removed 4 screws retaining circuit control board and removed the 3 connectors from the control board. Located flapper and removed by using small flat tip to take tension off flapper connectors. Helper held flash light to illuminate flapper connectors. Reversed procedure. New flapper seals well and cured problems. Circuit board was a bit different than one in video, but still had the 3 connectors. Marked each connector with grease pencil at top edge to ensure correct reconnection. Should note how wires are threaded around circuit board to ensure they are tucked back in correctly in reassembly. Remove trim piece carefully. I broke 2 of the 8 plastic pins that hold trim on. May be due to age of unit as they were brittle. 6 pins still hold trim piece flush.

First I placed a 2x4 under the frig door to keep it in place while I removed the hinge on the bottom of the door. I removed two screws holding the hinge and one screw holding the washer in place. I also loosened a screw adjacent to the washer so that I could more easily remove and replace the washer. The parts went in easily. The repair took much less time than I anticipated.

Use small putty knife to cut internal sealant on ice maker door trim piece. Then you can easily remove it.

Remove front cover did not remove wires remove ice and water unit took off flapper put new one on 5 minutes back together

Removed icemaker from freezer,
Removed 3 screws from cover plate, and removed screw securing main gear, removed gear.
Pulled back cover plate to expose switches and mechanism.
Removed screw holding switch to remove switch, and installed new switch.
I should have taken a pic of the cover plate, the interior mechanism and the wiring as I went along. It would have saved me 45 minutes in reassembly. Also, as luck would have it, I reversed the wiring on the switch. So off was on, and I had to remove it, switch wires and re-install.
But it works!

Received the first water valve with very poor included instructions. Watched the suggested instructional YouTube for my part installation which was very well done except my new part was not identical to my old part or the one in the YouTube. A translucent plastic housing on the part obstructed the installation so I needed to trim part of it away with a tin shear before attaching the part to the refrig. The waterline attachments were slip fit rather than what my old part had with compression nuts. I replaced all the plastic water lines using the slip fittings, turned the water back on and- all fittings leaked. Undid the fittings, trimmed the water lines and reattached- still leaked. So I contacted customer service who sent out a new part and followed the above procedure and everything went quickly with no leaks. I suggest you replace the two plastic water lines ( you will need to buy two slip fittings and two diameter lines) these are available at Home Depot. There is also a YouTube for this and it is a must see. My main supply line to the refrigerator is copper tubing. I trimmed the end of the tubing, filed it smoot, steelwooled the surface and installed a new brass compression ring befor reactching to the valve. Note, because of the first leaks, I found it easier to make all my connections including the electrical, plug the refrigerator back in and active the ice maker and water dispenser before reaching the valve the the frig back. Good luck.

Disconnected the power and then the water line. Removed the cardboard shield on back of the refrig. Then removed the faulty solenoid which was held in place by one bolt. Removed the two plastic water hoses and two sets of electrical connectors. I then reversed the process to install the new solenoid. I encountered two challenges. The new solenoid had a plastic housing that had to be removed and one set of the electrical connectors required an extension. The extensions were included with the solenoid, but there were no instructions.

I Took the six screws off the back panel to get to underneath the refridgerator. took the 2 screws out of the bracket thast holds on the water valve took the 2 lines off and then put everything back

The operation is very simple on this valve. I disconnected the water lines and wires.
Then two I removed the two screws attaching
valve to the ref.box.
The reinstall is just the opposite from removal.