PDS22MBRBWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

diagnosis, fan would run more than normal, compressor would only come on sometimes, check line voltage to the mother board (yes !!! a mother board with a relay for the compressor built onto it )! check the switched voltage out to the compressor. If a/c 115 in but no a/c 115 out while the fan is on replace the mother board. Remember this is a LIVE VOLTAGE TEST, BE CAREFUL HOW AND WHAT YOU TOUCH YOUR LIFE IS NOT WORTH SAVING A REPAIR BILL !!!
I suppose if if went long enough in this condition the result would be fan runs a lot but it does not get cold.
Hope this helps
God Bless
Captain Scott Cousins

After determining it was not a problem with the defrost cycle, ( this refrigerator had no separate defrost timer), I ordered the main circuit board with the hope that the relays built into it were hanging up and not properly turning on the compressor, (a chattering sound could be heard). Ten screws to take the access cover to the board off and a few connectors later and it was as good as new. Took about ten minutes!

Received main board in less than two days. back of frig. small panel removed 3 screws, removed cover exposing main board with needle plires squeesed 4 plastic tips to release board unpluged conectors, reinstaled new board, worked perfict. Thank you for your helpfull web site. Bob.

Disconnected power at outlet. Removed three screws from access panel. Disconnected six electrical connections, compressed three plastic retaining pins and removed board. Installed new board and reconnected connections, installed three screws on access panel and turned the fridge on. No more crazy evaporator motor noise

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

Replaced Temperature Sensor and now it is getting cold.

narrowed it down to the circuit board...removed cover panel after unplugging frig. read directions thouroughly.... removed cables attached to old board. this is the tricky part removing the board from the plastic clips....broke two pulling old board off popped new Board onto remaining plastic mounting clips and reattached cables plugged frig in and got a shock as my shoulder touched the board. everything seemed to be working and but cover back on....viola all done.

Totally followed the instructions of the video that came with the sensor. Unplugged the the fridge, defrosted the freezer. Cut off the main sensor that usually is the one that goes out. Installed the the new sensor with new wire terminals, crimped them and covered with electrical tape. Fridge works like a charm. Partsselect is excellent. Saved me a few hundred dollars versus having a GE Tech come and do it.

I took the 3 screws off the cover that is in the back of the appliance, unpluged the plugs that attached to the circuit board pressed the 4 plastic pins that held the old board. Then I snapped the new board in place and pluged the plugs back into the new board. They will only go on one way so you cannot get the plug in the wrong place, job done appliance works fine. Thanks

I found this failure at midnight, was able to determine loss of voltage at J2 Pin 3 to 4, causing the fan failure. Jumpering with a staple from Pin 5 to 4 allowed the evap fan to run from the condensor fan supply for the few days waiting for the part. Not pretty, but it saved the food. Running like that forced the evap fan to high speed, so I had to set the thermostats lower (higher temp)

1. To un-mount the board, use needle nose to gently squeeze plastic bayonets one at a time and lift that corner clear.
2. Mark each connector J1, J3, J4, J2, J5 to match the mark on the old board
3. Gently work each connector off, replace board, and re-land each connector. The new board will have a ground wire. Just trap the lug under the upper left cover plate screw..

Pull fridge out. Pull the little 6 by 12 silver plate off on the back middle bottom of fridge. Disconnect the quick connects . Remove from 4 plastic pins. Them reassemble.

Removed circuit board cover, unplugged l
Leads, rePlaced board, leads and cover. Done

Also watch the video. Super simple

I wouldn't have had a clue without your video. After the part was delivered, which was only in two days, I watched the video. The man explained everything perfectly, making our "fix" a breeze. It was great, I stood over my husband's shoulder, while he sat on the floor and told him what to do step by step. It couldn't have been easier. You guys are awesome!

Found out via searches that the most likely failed part was the Main Control Board. A simple repair with basic tools and a HUGE savings. Thanks to everyone here for the posts.

PS - on my particular GE model PFS22SISBSS there was no need to cut any wires as per the instructions because the wires did not exist on this unit.

The first and most important step was to diagnose the problem. To do this I found the Parts Select website and the part I thought was the problem. The previous repairs stories helped me to pin point the problem. The mother board came within a couple of days. All I had to do was take the back plate/guard off, unplug the connectors in the back, unclip the mother board and then do the reverse over again. The only problem was the ground wire. I had to take the one off that came with the part and switch it out with the old one, because it would not connect to my refrigerator. This was fairly simple and in about 30 min. I was done and had our refrigerator back. Luckily we had another in the garage as a back up so we didn't loose any food.

Thanks Parts Select