GCE23YBTAFBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.

I replaced defrost sets, door gasket but still ice buildup freezer part.

removed 6 screws and repaced cover.

Easy order, fast delivery, two screws, done.

It was so darn easy! Took less then 10 minutes to fix. Self explanatory no instructions needed! Very cool!

Knew the switch was bad. Researched on the internet how to fix. Used a steak knife to pop the old one out, changed the contacts to the new switch and popped it back in. It took longer to open the box than it did to replace the switch. And the part arrived 2 days after I ordered it.

Remove fresh side door off the hinges, replace the thimble door bot and door closing cam, very easy them remove door gasket, and install new no problem.

First I removed the ice tray rack lifting it out of the way to reach the back cover of the fan. Then, the whole back inside panel had to be removed. Two screws removed the fan and bracket from the freezer unit. The missing bumper lid just snapped into place. Replaced everything in reverse order. Pretty easy job.

Bent the motor bracket down, then using a rat tail file, elongated the holes in the back panel of the refrigerator to secure the fan in the "centered" position. This was a problem that was with the refrig. since it was made. The parts involved were perfect. NO problem at all installing them.

WE (WIFE) took out the old parts an replaced with new one ..Be careful to get the placement of the Grommet or they "POP" out on you. fast ship on the parts too.

Unplug the refrigerator. Gently pry old switch out with screw driver. Move wires to connector on new switch with needle nose pliers. Pop it back into the hole. Plug back in. Peek inside to see the lights working.

I followed the video for my model refrigerator on parts select. My hint: when returning the back panel of the freezer, it's slightly adjustable left and right to avoid grazing the fan.

Take a thin flathead screwdriver (or metal spatula) to separate the lower molded strip from the handle. Once removed, I discovered two small screws that secure the bottom of the main handle were loose. The head of the screws had five points which required a special drill bit that I had in my tool box. The screws were tightened allowing me to align the replacement Tail strip and snap it in place. Some pressure is needed to secure it to the door. Once you hear the inserts "snap", then check for any open spaces between the strip sides and the door. If none, you're done!

The video was very helpful as the fridge used was close in configuration to ours. Only difficulty was installing the light tray assembly which on ours is two piece, a U shaped plastic tray into which the light assembly/electrical harness is attached. Re assembly was tricky as the plastic tray was flimsy and the light assembly kept coming out. Needed two pairs of hands but not enough room. The problem was solved by using blue tape to keep the complete assembly together, then gently removing it after the 4 mounting screws were in place. After that all went smoothly. Turns out the old damper assembly was broken. Since then the fridge has been working normally with set temp. of 37 holding steady and freezer at 0, per GE recommendations. Good fix!!

Simply slide new control slide through slot from front.