TFS22PPBGBS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

First I propped up the door. Then I removed the 2 screws that hold the hinge on. AT this point you do need someone else because the door swings loose. I attached the new bracket and lowered the door. It went verey smooth. I ordered the new bracket after reading the installation stories from others who just repaced the plastic pieces. Its worth the extra money to just put on a new bracket

I removed all of the items in the refrigerator door. I then removed the top hinge cover with a Philips screwdriver, and removed the two machine screws holding the top hinge using a socket wrench. This allowed me to lift the door off the bottom hinge pins and set the door on its side. I removed the two screws holding on the broken bottom hinge cam riser block and replace it with the new one. After tighening it back with a socket wrench, I tried to put the door back in place. I asked my wife to hold the door steady while I lay on the floor to guide the door downward over the bottom hinge pin. I then replaced the top hinge screws and checked the door. It still didn't close on its own! I realized I had to loosen the top hinge screws and adjust the door so that it stands more vertically (evening the gap with the freezer door). With this adjustment, the door closes fine.

First I disconnected the Power from the unit. Pulled out the freezer drawers and the ice machine used a 1/4 inch nut driver and removed the sheet metal from the back of the freezer exposing the evaporator coils. I defrosted the coils. Then I removed the two screws holding the defrost heater braket assembly and removed the two electrical connections from it. I then installed the new heater put everything back together(reverse of installation)and it works like a brand new fridge and freezer.

put adapter on and replace filter

I pulled the refrigerator away from the wall and turned off the water to the refrigerator and unplugged it from the wall. After removing the icebucket from the freezer I located the mounting screws, loosened them, unplugged the electrical connection below the icemaker and carefully removed it from the freezer. I unpacked the replacement icemaker, matched it against the original and attached the electrical connection adapter. Using the slots provided on the new icemaker I placed it over the mounting screws after aligning the water inlet pipe properly. I tightened the mounting screws while maintaining the icemaker in a level position. I plugged in the electrical connector. Then I replaced the icebucket, plugged in the refigerator back into the 110VAC outlet, turned on the water and repositioned the refrigerator in it's normal position.

valve was very easy to change... less than fifteen minutes. in the process i discovered that the plastic tubes were brittle and it took near 5 hours to replace them (including 2 trips to the depot for parts). Still a huge saving over the alternative

Performed self test.turned off ice maker switch four 5 minutes.Then turn on switch,within 10 seconds,pushed ice paddle 3 times,with 1 second in between each push.Push all the way back and release. Ice maker should cycle and squirt water. My ice maker did neither.I unplugged cord from fridge.So i replaced the ice maker.After a couple of screws had ice again !

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

Removed door contents to lower weight (good time to clean/disinfect door compartments), blocked and shimmed door up to correct fininished height. Removed lower hinge components (make sure shims positions are noted). Replaced w/new components and removed blocking. Easy job, should have done sooner.

you must pay careful attention when taking the dispenser apart,especially the long rod that controls the deflector,but if close attention is payed to disassembly you should have no problem.

removed 2 - 1/4" screws and 2 phillip screws to take off the evap cover, then 2 phillip srews to take out the defrost heater assembly, replaced and put everything back together. no problem.
I GOT THE PART SO FAST THAT I WAS SURPRISED TO SEE IT THERE!

Turned the power of to the fridge took the food out of the freezer put in the fridge took out all the shelves and took off the panel to get to the coils. I used a hair dryer and a shop vac to defrost the coils used the shop vac to suck up the water as the ice melted also put some paper towel in the drip tube so the water would not go to the drip pan. Took off old defrost heater which was a single heater the new on was a double heater fished out the blue wire from the left side of compartment and ran it down the right side plugged both wires into the heater mounted it into place and put everything back. Turned on fridge and it has been working fine ever since. Thanks for the last person that did this I read his review and it really was that easy
Thanks Jerry

Great Service! Received the part the NEXT DAY!

We originally called a service technician. He came the next day and said the mother board was no good. He order a new one and replaced it a week later. Total part & labor cost: $185.00 (Remember we're without a working refrigerator the whole time the part is on order)
Two days later the freezer is doing the same thing. We call the tech again and he seems confused and says it could be the heating element, he'll order one at no charge and replace it for us free. He never comes back with the part and does not answer our 2 dozen phone calls. I checked the element myself and saw that the tube had been scorched, like a burnt out light bulb. Searched for parts on internet and found this great site. "Partselect.com"
REPAIR:
Refrigerator had been unplugged for a few days to defrost ice build up in freezer. First, I removed the shelves from freezer compartment, removed the back panel and removed screws holding heater element in place, I unplugged the two electrical leads and plugged in new part. AS EASY AS THAT !!!!! I reinstalled the screws to hold the element, installed the back panel and replaced the freezer shelves. I plugged the refrigerator back in and within hours the freezer started making ice again. It's been about 3 weeks and we have not had a problem since.
Fantastic Service and instructions and Inexpensive !!!! I will use this site again, if needed, and will recommemd to anyone who needs parts.

After removing the 4 screws from the inside back panel of the freezer and setting a small heater with fan, on a small metal step ladder for about twenty minutes to defrost the freezer coils, it was a snap to remove the two small screws holding the burned out heater harness defrost assembly, and unplugging the wire harnesses to replace the burnt unit with a new one. Actual hands on time was about 5 minutes. Difficulty level, well... my wife did it and she is not mechanically inclined.