PTG22SBSARBS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

The mother board was bad....solder the board and it works like a charm.

watch you tube demo how to do it.

I removed the ice maker, and removed the upper plastic covers, that just snap in and out of their locations, you can then see the evaporator fan blades. then I removed 2 hex screws, located in the top corners, holding a metal cover in place,lifting up from the bottom of the cover and slowly pulling it out of the freezer compartment. I can now see the screws holding the evaporator fan motor in place. Unplug the connector wiring to the motor and unclip the ground wire from the frame, It is easier to replace the fan blade,lid bumpers, dust cap,grommets, and fan motor this way. while you have everything in easy access, I took time to clean everything and replaced the foam strips, assure tight fit causing excellent air flow, when operating. the cause of the whining and knocking noise, was worn out grommets and bearing going bad in the motor. I reassembled everything in reverse order, being very careful not to get cut or burnt on the fins and tubing in the back of the freezer. Do not drop any thing down the drains while removing and /or reassembling, those items will cause lots of havoc to the lower fan and motor for the refrigerator, lay a towel in the bottom when you start working on it.. I then plugged it back up and there was on noise, works great.

I looked at the video that came with the part and followed what i saw. My wife and i was about to go out and spend between $1500 and $2500 on a new refrigerator due to continuous defrosting. It had been happening for about a year. I followed the instructions from the video and the defrosting has stopped. Thanks so much for the video and the part! We do not need a new refrigerator after all.

Replaced all the sensors in both the feezer and refrigerator.Even though it colder now it still is not cold enough.Freezer won't freeze items but is cold and refrigerator still not real cold

I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.

Followed the repair video, was spot on!!

Replaced above parts and the noise problem was not resolved. Ordered a new motor, fan blade and another set of grommets from PartSelect. The parts were delivered the next day. Took me about 15 minutes to swap the new parts in. It's been 3 days since the repair and the noise has not returned.

luckly i have a bit of experience in refrigeration im an hvac technician by trade. this repair was a bit tricky in that i did not know at first if it was a Temperature Sensor issue or the main control board. I had tested the defrost termination thermostat and the defrost heater and as i suspected they were ok. Next i wanted to test the thermistors (temp sensors) it is hard to find technical data on these fridges. I needed to test the thermistors resistance @ a certian temperature to ensure they were working properly but where do u get such data? I also wanted to know some information about the logic programmed into the board (i.e when do you initiate defrost etc. . .). I had no such luck so i figured since i tested the defrost heater and thermostat and they were ok and all of the evap fans and such were working i'd order a circuit board and new thermistors. Got the CORRECT PARTS from this site in 2 business days and my fridge is working great! changing the parts was really easy, figuring out which parts to change was the only difficult thing about this job.

Based on instruction I replaced the defrost thermostat and the temperature sensor. There was no improvement. The defrost thermostat was supplied with orange and red wires. the original wires were orange and pink. I connected the 2 orange wires and the pink to the red. So I don't really know if that is the problem or not. currently I don't know what to do next anyone got an ideas? It has dual evaporation.

I looked at your video . very nice. job went fast. thank you mike.

first unplug unit then pulled the inside back freezer cover off piled towels around and defrosted the the unit thoroughly. located the defroster unit tested for continuity was good so i replaced the temp sensors they were just nip off the old one and splice in the new one. also replace the defroster thermostat was the same nip and splice. *the parts shop did not find the model #i have but knowing those parts are interchangeable with all G-E models i ordered the parts

1. Removed and tested defrost heater, tests good. 2. Reinstalled defrost heater. 3. Removed and tested defrost over-temperature sensor, tests good. 4. Reinstalled over-temperature sensor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 5. Removed the control printed circuit board and checked for blown fuse's, fuse's are all good. 6. Removed the defrost relay from the printed circuit board using soldering iron, bench tested the relay, it is good. 7. Soldered defrost relay back onto the circuit board, and reinstalled control board. 8. Removed and bench tested evaporator thermistor, the resistance is out of specification, ordered new thermister. 9. Installed new thermistor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 10. Re-assembled refrigerator. 11. Installed temperature monitoring and recording instrumentation for 72 hour test. The defrost cycle is running correctly with a defrost termination temperature of around 90 deg-f. The defrost cycle ran twice while running the 72 hour test. 11. Removed test instrumentation and Put the unit back into service, The thermistor was the culprit. I bought the right part on the first shot, nice.

We just pried off the fan blades and pushed on the new part. Could not have been easier. The rat has been permanently dipatched and, hopefully, that is that.

Unplugged the refrigerator first....then on the inside of the fridge, I popped the temp sensor cover off (upper LH side) and exposed the old sensor. I snipped off the old sensor about 3" down from the end and connected the new sensor (which I trimmed down to about 3" long) with some heat shrink wire nuts/connectors. Let the fridge run for a day or so and confirmed the problem was solved! Oh yeah, there was no way to tell the 2 wires apart (power vs. ground) on the sensor. However there was a manufacturer's stamp on the wires. So note the orientation of the text and mark one of the wires with a sharpie on both the old and new sensor before trimming. This will give you a reference for which wires to connect when adding the new sensor to the old wires.