PTG22SBSARBS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplug the refrigerator. Pull all shelves out of the freezer. Remove light bulb shield and light bulb. Remove the two hex head screws on either side of the light bulb. Wiggle out the back wall. It is a tight sqeeze, but can be done. Locate the sensor on the top of the coils. It is held on by a simple clip. Wiggle the sensor and twist a little to take it off. Take wire cutters and cut the two wires into the sensor near the sensor to allow lots of room to splice in the new sensor. Strip about a quarter inch of wires left in the freezer. Use some sort of wire connectors, like twist caps, which will allow you to connect the two wires to the new sensor. Make sure to match the colors. I used shrink tube and line connectors. Once you have the new wires spliced together and protected with either shrink tube or electrical tape, tuck the excess wire out of the way and attach the new sensor. This is easily done by slight pressure on the sensor with the tube in between the clip and sensor. Make sure the wires are tuck out of the way and reassemble the freezer panel, light bulb, and shelves in the reverse order.

I ordered the part but my husband had to work out of town for a week. The fridge kept getting warmer, so when the part came I just watched the video on the internet, (bit the bullet) and did the repair just as I saw it done on the video. It was simple and exactly the same as the video. It took a little longer for me because there was a lot of ice built up on the coils, so I used my hair dryer to melt the ice. My refridgerator is working great now.

Refrigerator was showing actual temperature of 80 deg, freezer was about 3 deg high. (house temp was 65 at the time) Defrost heater seemed like the only component able to heat that much, so the defrost thermostat seemed like the likely culprit. I followed the installation directions in the video, and the fridge has been fine ever since.

I replaced the thermostat. I simply followed the insructions in the video on your website and it was done in about 5-10 minutes.

verify the heating element was o.k., found the top of the thermostat popped off,it had water in it,probably froze and came apart,cut the wires to the old thermostat and splice the new ones together,put the cover back on and verify operation

I watched the online video on how to replace a defrost limiter. It was almost exactly like my situation and made the job seem familiar. It was inexpensive ($8 part)and easy to do.

i took out back frame and cleared off the ice on the metal condenser. I cut wires from old thermostat and removed it. Stripped new wires and attached to the wires in the frig. We taped it with electrical tape and put it back and closed it up. it works beautifully! We watched a video on youtube and that helped a great deal!

3 weeks After changing the defrost heater, i had to change the thermostat, part was suppose to come with wire connectors and everything needed, it didn't. Cut two wires to old thermostst, strip about a 1/4 inch of insulation and crimp new wires on part together. cover with heat shrink and heat with lighter until sealed.

I followed the instructional video. It was right on the money for accuracy in terms of part location and method of replacement.

All the rest of everyone's post are all what I did. The only other thing I recommend is to put the back panel over the evaporator coils when your done. I replaced defrost thermostat, and heater. Once I initially completed it it kept icing over more than usual. You have to put the back panel back on so airflow goes over the coils.

My Ge top freezer fefrigerator was going into defrost mode and the heater was staying on for too long causing the food to thaw and eventually refreeze. Originally thought it was the mother board but after researching and do some troubleshooting of my own I realized the defrost terminating thermostat was bad. $8 part from Parts Select. Accessed the evaporator by removing back wall plate. Located thermostat and cut two lead wires to it. Spliced in new thermostat and reattached to eveaporator. Refrigerator seems to be good as new. There is an installation video on the web page that shows you step by step proceedure.

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

Once the part was received, it was very easy to snap the new part into place, and reinstall the drawers. No tools were required to complete the repair.

I ordered 3 temperature Sensors Part#PS304103 and viewed the video. Got there, opened the frig. and it looked totally different and no place in any part of this frig. that took these sensors as viewed on the video. Totally baffled why these parts were listed for this frig. there was no place in this frig that would access for these parts. Serial # was HR443071.Maybe this model is out of date for these parts. Trying to find someone who can repair it. Any ideas???Purchased this GE in 2008. Model #is GSS25WSTFSS Thanks, for your help. JIM

After removing all the parts, the bins and a large glass fitted shelf or lid, on top of the two crisper bins I then removed the whole frame the three glides are mounted to. The frame is molded into one large piece matching the whole horizontal space of the refrigerator, so it is wiggled loose from its space. I lifted out the whole thing and placed it on a surface on which I could work while see everything I was doing. With no screw (both top and bottom of the U-shaped gripper “clevis” end are solid) or other type fastener that could be removed I finally just pried the "clevis" of the center glide that grips the front of the frame. This clevis grips a set of small plastic studs that fit into matching round indentations in the top and bottom of the clevis jaws. It’s necessary to keep the stud from slipping back into the first indentation while opening up the other side of the jaw so that both are free at the same time and the clevis will slide sideways. Using a butter knife because it was a good fit and stiff enough, I released the top, and then the bottom using the knife to bend it a little bit. The clevis opens up just enough to allow the edge of the frame it’s gripping to be released from its grip. The new one is put back in exactly the same manner but in reverse. The opposite end from the clevis simply tilts up until it can be disengage and reengaged in the same manner