TFX22PPBGBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I had to defrost the freezer again before I could even start the replacement We unplub the old wiring harness took out two screws removed the old heater put in the new one replaced the srews and reconnected the harness we were done.

The icemaker arm disconnected from the metal frame. This caused the icemaker to cycle and the heater to come on and stay on until the plastic parts melted causing a mess and stink. This action melted the ice and then the water fell through the frozen items in the freezer and refreezed in the lower portion. OK, I remover the dead icemaker and tossed it away. I installed the new icemaker and the wiring harness didn't fit right (way to long). I retrieved the old icemaker and removed the wiring harness from it. I removerd the new ice maker and installed the old wiring harness to the new icemaker. I then installed the new icemaker, plugged it in and turned on the power. No water, I ordered the dual solenoid water valve, installed it with difficulty (another story) the turned on the power. I reinstalled the ice bin and found it didn't fit. The icemaker was to low and couldn't be adjusted, 1/4" higher would have been great. I shoved in the bin anyway, I was out of ice for my scotch, and it started making ice.

removed old auger; replaced it with a stainless steel auger

Propped the door up with wood so we could change it without removing the whole door.
Removed &Replaced the cam and bracket quite easily. It did require 2 people, one to help hold the door while the other did the work.

I found instructions on the web about how to do this repair, so I ordered the part with confidence. But the instructions simply said "pull out the old switchlight". That was actually somewhat difficult as the clip on the side intended to hold the part in was stubborn. I eventually used a utility to slice off the clip. From that point, it was just a matter of plugging in the new switchlight , which was very simple.

I simply removed the screws holding the plastic face plate to the old auger/ice bucket and attached it to the new one. It was a simple procedure

The defective solenoid assembly was removed from the refrigerator and the electrical connection was unplugged. The new assembly was placed beside the defective part so the wiring harness could be removed and installed on the new assembly. I had to use a flat screwdriver to loosen the connectors. The water connections were then carefully moved, one at a time, to the new valve. The water was then turned on to check for leaks. There were none so the assembly was installed in the refrigerator and the back cover was screwed into place.

The part was shipped on a Monday and I received it at noon the following Tuesday, using the least expensive shipping method!

The replacement part fit perfectly and was easy to install. No problems at all.

First let me remind you my husband is disabled so it was up to me to do the repair. I'm 70 yrs old. I first removed everything from freezer and then removed the back cover removimg 4 screws,then i removed the old defrost unit which held 2 screws replaced with the new one then i had to put cover back in place..then put everything back in freezer and so far its working...Only time will tell.But the part was so reasonable that if if i have to i will get another..but not for a while i'm hoping,

Remove ice maker out of fridge; remove 3 screws
replace defective part re-install all components 30 minutes later " magic ice again. Very easy repair most important low cost. Thanks "Parts Select"

Removed the back panel of the freezer to inspect. The coils were totally iced up. Proceeeded to defrost coils with a heat gun. I then removed the defrost element to insepct and meter reading showed as open (infinite resistance). I ordered a replacement element and it arrive 2 days later. Replace the element and everything worked OK except for the ice maker. It seem that moisture had frozen on the motor impeller for the auger drive motor and locked it up. I removed the drive assembly and defrosted the motor impeller to free it. Everthing now is working fine.
Your blow up drawings made this a very easy repair
Thanks

I started by shutting off the water inlet valve and then unplugged the refrgerator. I then disconnected the tubing leading into the solnoid. Removed the old solenoid, replaced it with the new part reconnectted the tubing and gave it a test run. After about 2 hours we had ice being made again! I then reconnected the bracket to the refrigerator and haven't had a problem since.

This is the third time the defrost heater has failed, the part was shipped prompt, and the replacement was upgraded to a dual coil. The repair was quick and more cost effective than having a repair guy come out .

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

I replaced both lower hinges without removing the doors. First a couple of observations. The hinge kit consists of two parts; the lower part (bolted to the case) consists of an “L” bracket with a plastic cam, and the upper plastic cam (attached to the door). For some reason the upper cam is available as a separate part . If both cams are plastic both are worn out. Don’t bother ordering the individual cam. If one hinge is worn out the other probably isn’t far behind. Consider replacing both at the same time. Examine the door check. It is an inverted “T” shaped bracket bolted to the door that also holds the door cam. The crossbar of the T are metal tabs that check the door swing. Way too fragile IMO. On mine the refrigerator side was cracked and broke off when I removed it. Since the stops are the same right and left. I just swapped them when I replaced the hinges. Saved $22. Replacing the hinges without removing the doors. {Warning if this technique goes wrong you will be stuck with a loaded door you can’t open.} Remove the vent grill. Stack three 2x4’s along the bottom of both doors ( 26” is about right ). Shim the door(s) up to compensate for the cam wear. About 1/8”) Use a 5/16 socket to remove the hinge from the case. Pay attention to placement of the shims and spacers. Then remove the door cam and stop bracket. Install the new door cam. Leave the screws a little loose. Replace the lower hinge and tighten the screws. Do both sides. Then carefully remove the shims and 2x4’s. Finish tightening the door hinge screws. Check the door swing. I used this technique twice. One to replace the refrigerator side hinge, then again to replace the freezer side hinge and swap the door checks. There were no problems and I saved the hassle of unloading and removing the doors.