TFX22PPBGBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Took back plate off of unit, shut off water, cut and marked water lines after unpluging wire harness, replaced unit

I pulled the refrigerator away from the wall and turned off the water to the refrigerator and unplugged it from the wall. After removing the icebucket from the freezer I located the mounting screws, loosened them, unplugged the electrical connection below the icemaker and carefully removed it from the freezer. I unpacked the replacement icemaker, matched it against the original and attached the electrical connection adapter. Using the slots provided on the new icemaker I placed it over the mounting screws after aligning the water inlet pipe properly. I tightened the mounting screws while maintaining the icemaker in a level position. I plugged in the electrical connector. Then I replaced the icebucket, plugged in the refigerator back into the 110VAC outlet, turned on the water and repositioned the refrigerator in it's normal position.

valve was very easy to change... less than fifteen minutes. in the process i discovered that the plastic tubes were brittle and it took near 5 hours to replace them (including 2 trips to the depot for parts). Still a huge saving over the alternative

I removed all of the items in the refrigerator door. I then removed the top hinge cover with a Philips screwdriver, and removed the two machine screws holding the top hinge using a socket wrench. This allowed me to lift the door off the bottom hinge pins and set the door on its side. I removed the two screws holding on the broken bottom hinge cam riser block and replace it with the new one. After tighening it back with a socket wrench, I tried to put the door back in place. I asked my wife to hold the door steady while I lay on the floor to guide the door downward over the bottom hinge pin. I then replaced the top hinge screws and checked the door. It still didn't close on its own! I realized I had to loosen the top hinge screws and adjust the door so that it stands more vertically (evening the gap with the freezer door). With this adjustment, the door closes fine.

First I disconnected the Power from the unit. Pulled out the freezer drawers and the ice machine used a 1/4 inch nut driver and removed the sheet metal from the back of the freezer exposing the evaporator coils. I defrosted the coils. Then I removed the two screws holding the defrost heater braket assembly and removed the two electrical connections from it. I then installed the new heater put everything back together(reverse of installation)and it works like a brand new fridge and freezer.

put adapter on and replace filter

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

Performed self test.turned off ice maker switch four 5 minutes.Then turn on switch,within 10 seconds,pushed ice paddle 3 times,with 1 second in between each push.Push all the way back and release. Ice maker should cycle and squirt water. My ice maker did neither.I unplugged cord from fridge.So i replaced the ice maker.After a couple of screws had ice again !

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.

Unplug refridge then loosened two bolts holding old ice maker. Lower then unplug and removed. Plugged in new harness and tightened two bolts to secure new ice maker. Plug in frig and wait for ice.

I propped up the door with 2x4 and shims to be level with the freezer door. Then removed the 2 screws holding the hinge to the main unit. Then removed the 2 screws holding the cam washer to the door.
Replacement was the reverse of disassembly. Be sure to tighten screws almost tight until both pieces are located correctly then fully tighten. Lift up refrigerator door slightly to remove shims and wood block.
I did the replacement myself but was nervous that the door would fall off the block and shims. I recommend having another person hold the door closed during the process.

I emptied everything from door compartments.I removed the top cover of the door pivot with a phillips screwdriver. I removed the two screws that that hold the pivot bracket with a 8 mm socket. Lift the door off the bottom pivot bracket. Remove the old bottom pivot bracket with an 8mm socket and replace it with the new cam bushings.You must replace both bushings on the bottom of the door and on the bracket that mounts to the base of the body of the refrigerator. Reinstall the door and screws .The doors should be level with each other if they are installed properly.If not check the freezer door .The bushings may be worn on that door also.

I ordered two switches, replaced both with a knife in 10 minutes. Interior light works, thanks.

Removed door contents to lower weight (good time to clean/disinfect door compartments), blocked and shimmed door up to correct fininished height. Removed lower hinge components (make sure shims positions are noted). Replaced w/new components and removed blocking. Easy job, should have done sooner.

you must pay careful attention when taking the dispenser apart,especially the long rod that controls the deflector,but if close attention is payed to disassembly you should have no problem.