GSE23GGPFCBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

First, I removed the top drawer blocking the area where I needed to put the glass panel cover. Then, I removed the drawer along with the glass panel holder to which I needed to install the glass. I installed the glass to the panel holder without difficulties (although the glass cover was expensive :() and reinstall the drawers back to their proper place. This repair was actually a no-brainer.

Suggest removing black plastic grill first to gain better access to door stop screws. The grill is attached by two phillips screws, one on either end and several metal spring clips in the middle. The door stop is held by two star shaped screws that are only visible with a mirror. Suggest using a bit attached to a small ratchet.

Removed panel from front of freezer door by pushing up on three spring loaded screws located in the opening where the ice door opens and closes. they are about 1 inch apart on the bottom of the opening. Push up to free ice maker panel. Remove three screws from solenoid, located at the top right. Remove wire, replace with new and that is it. Fixed the problem!! Our ice maker hadn't worked for months. Be careful if you remove the round ice maker door to clean. There is a spring that located on the left side of sprocket. The spring fell off and took me a while to figure where it came from. Recieved package in three days and the job took minutes. Works great! Very easy to complete.

Replaced both temp sensors worked good for 2 days then began freezing food. Looked into it further on line. Found small motorized door broken that controls the cold air from the freezer

This part (plastic tubing) does not show up under my model of refrig...so I had to look thru the various water lines and pick the one that "looked" right. Luckily, this is the exact replacement part and works perfectly. I removed the lower back panel from the fridge, removed the bracket holding the water line connectors and pressed the outer ring of the coupler up until it released the old water line. I pushed in the new line, made sure it was snug with a gentle pull and ran the line under the fridge up to the existing coupler. I removed the old line from the existing coupler under the front left of the freezer door, and pushed in the new line. I did not need to use the new coupler. If my old line would not have been so brittle and cracked in several places, I could have just cut out the leaking portion and popped the new couple in to mend the line back together. Easy job and we can stop buying bottled water at the store now!

the replacement part did not have the 3 screw holes needed to 100% replace the part that broke. however, i realized that the piece that fastens to these 3 screws is the slider cover piece (i dont know its name) that has the rubber gasket was sticking every time i opened the drawer and this was what caused the OEM part to break. anyone who has a GE profile with the meat compartment must know what i am talking about - it sticks and is a bit clunky to open (until the pressure breaks the pin holding the gasket as in my case).
i simply did not place that piece back when i put the replacement part in, and now it slides much more easily. the downside is slightly less seal for the meat compartment, but to me that isnt very important because that compartment does not need to be isolated from the rest of the fridge to do its job.

Unplugged the fridge, and opened the freezer. Unscrewed the light panel, small screwdriver. Removed the plastic bracket. Part was frozen and I broke one of the plastic mounts. Do not do this as I am not sure if I will have to live with my cable twist tie kludge or I can get another plastic bracket. Light board is just the PCB. You need to remove the old PCB and install the new one- remember the orientation and the fact that the plastic mount piece has specific sides you can identify by the width of the slots. This is for all the other women like me. Thanks.

It was very simple! I assessed the situation and gathered my tools for the job. I used a flat head screwdriver, pliers, and electrical tape. I used the flat head screwdriver to release the switch from its location, the pliers to take the electrical terminations apart. I taped the wires individual so that I would not loose them in the door, also not to short them out. I then unpackaged the new switch to install. Pulled the tape off one of the of the terminals while holding the wire, and attached it to the new switchs terminal post. Did the same with the other wire, then snapped the new switch back into place. Immediately had results. I opened and closed the door a few times in amazement that something so annoying such as a light in your fridge could be so easy to fix. Most of all, having a business to rely on to find the part and deliver in a timely fashion. Thank you Partselect.com, you were outstanding!!!

Easy fix, but they don't give you plenty of wire to work with. When I pulled the switch out it only had about an inch of wire that came with it. meaning if I didn't have a grasp on the wires as I was removing the switch they would have slipped back up the opening

Checked to make sure water was going to the fridge and it was. Removed the 1st line after the valve and no water was present. Figured the valve was bad. Removed the wires to the old valve and also had to remove the wire harness on the new valve. It wasn't needed. Replaced the valve and installed the old wires. Hooked up the water line and instantly had water. A day later I had a full ice bucket. This part wasn't listed on GE website. But it was on partselect.com.

There is no access to the inside of the door to replace the water line. I was able to insert a 1/4" drip line barbed connector into the old line at the base of the door and then connect that to a piece of the plastic tubing which I then connected back to the original water supply tubing with the 5/16" union. It took three attempts to get the tubing through the bottom hinge without a crimp in it. It's best to have a second person to hold the door while you "fish" the tubing through the hinge.

The new shelf went in really easy. It just fit in the alloted slot.

Tube was too short so I used the union to attach additional tubing to reach the valve at the lower rear of refrigerator

Pulled new tubing to the tank and put a union about 8 inches down from tank to new tubing. Great repair. Parts not readily available locally.

Raised side of fridge enough to get 1/4" ratchet with 1/4" socket under roller wheel assy. Removed three hex-head screws to separate damaged wheel assy from fridge frame. From panel below fridge compartment, backed-out stripped leveling screw. Mounted new roller assy and then threaded in new leveling screw from front. Lowered fridge and adjusted leveling screw for proper height. Suggest putting a 2x4 under fridge for safety when hands are under unit.