GSE25GGPHCBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Easy fix, but they don't give you plenty of wire to work with. When I pulled the switch out it only had about an inch of wire that came with it. meaning if I didn't have a grasp on the wires as I was removing the switch they would have slipped back up the opening

Unplugged the fridge, and opened the freezer. Unscrewed the light panel, small screwdriver. Removed the plastic bracket. Part was frozen and I broke one of the plastic mounts. Do not do this as I am not sure if I will have to live with my cable twist tie kludge or I can get another plastic bracket. Light board is just the PCB. You need to remove the old PCB and install the new one- remember the orientation and the fact that the plastic mount piece has specific sides you can identify by the width of the slots. This is for all the other women like me. Thanks.

There is no access to the inside of the door to replace the water line. I was able to insert a 1/4" drip line barbed connector into the old line at the base of the door and then connect that to a piece of the plastic tubing which I then connected back to the original water supply tubing with the 5/16" union. It took three attempts to get the tubing through the bottom hinge without a crimp in it. It's best to have a second person to hold the door while you "fish" the tubing through the hinge.

I took the advice off of your website about the only thing that will fix
the problem is change the run capacitor. I felt assured that I would
have a working refrigerator freezer after making this change. I was
pretty disheartened when it didn`t solve anything. I was not going to
take the new part back out after the small challenge of putting it in.
The next day I found out how to test the old capacitor and it was still
good. I will just have to eat the $49. I did learn not to take advice from
a website even if it seems like a sure thing

The new shelf went in really easy. It just fit in the alloted slot.

Tube was too short so I used the union to attach additional tubing to reach the valve at the lower rear of refrigerator

Pulled new tubing to the tank and put a union about 8 inches down from tank to new tubing. Great repair. Parts not readily available locally.

Instructions say run capacitor is by motor, but on this frige its in the refrigerator compartment. The capacitors looks different, one square and the other long

1. Removed the back panel of the fridge to get access to the inlet water valve.
2. Removed black poly water line from valve (pull back on white ring where line is attached and pull the line out)
3. Removed the inlet tube from top-back of fridge (where it goes into the ice make). use putty knife to get under the sticky white gasket beneath the black oval housing and pull the tube out form the back of the fridge.
4. Replace the water line with new part taking care to properly seat the line into the the bottom water valve and pushing the water tube into the hole for the ice maker.

Note: Be sure to take off the protective covering from the white - sticky grommet and push to adhere to metal on fridge.

to be safe - use a bit of clear silicone chaulking round the perimeter of the grommet and push to tighly bond the water inlet tube to the fridge.

The reason for this - is that if you do not get a good bond using the white - sticky gormmet alone - you may have the water tube inside the ice maker freeze up.

Also once the new water line is installed be sure to secure the line to the metal back of the fridge - so the line will not move. some fridges come with metal hose clamps to do this - otherwise use duct tape

You must have a nutdriver to replace this part. No wrench or pliers will fit in the space to loosen any of the nuts.

You cannot simply replace the bracket, because it's connected to the ice-maker assembly and it's a very snug fit. Therefore, you must remove the bracket on the opposite wall to give you room to angle the assembly and slip on the new bracket.

Be careful when you're screwing the nuts back in, especially the two in the back of the freezer. It's a difficult angle to keep a grip, and it's easy to drop the screws into the freezer (and then you have to fish them out of the bags of frozen peas)

1 - Remove the nuts from the broken bracket.

2 - Remove the nuts from the bracket on the opposite wall.

Now you have room to maneuver.

3 - Angle the ice-maker assembly and slip off the old bracket, and then slip on the new bracket.

4 - Align the brackets over the holes and screw in each nut.

The most difficult part was screwing in the two back screws when replacing the brackets onto the freezer walls. It's a pretty simple job that requires no muscle.

Removed tension spring, removed old lever, installed spring on lever, inserted lever in hole, re-attached spring to hook under front of refrigerator.

Had to remove a couple of shelves, then used a Phillips screwdriver to remove the Light diffuser then removed the "light board" assembly and unplugged the light board, plugged in the replacement board, snapped the board back onto its mounting bracket, then snapped the bracket back into its place and then replaced the light diffuser and screwed it back in place. Replaced the 3 shelves and the food which I stored in our chest freezer while I did this repair. I'M DONE !!!! Pretty easy. The switch was OK. Didn't need replaced. Then I plugged in the refrigerator. NOW when we open the freezer door; LET THERE BE LIGHT !!!!!! Sunglasses are needed now!!!

several times I had to remove the ice maker door solenoid due to it sticking. I ordered a new one from parts select. Problem solved!!!

I bought a Flapper replacement part from Parts Select. I installed it following their very complete on-line video directions. Their complete and easy to follow directions made my job very easy, and the work was completed without any problems and just as good as if it were done by a professional repair person. I am proud of my work, it couldn't have been done without their video insructions. Also I got delivery of the part within two days of my order. I will alway look for Parts Select any time I need an applicance repaired. Thanks to Parts Select!

Procedure for Replacing the Ice Chute Plate
1. Turn off the power.
2. Snap off the outside trim ring. Use a plastic screwdriver to avoid scratching the cabinet.
3. Locate the three small holes below the control panel facing, just above ice chute. The center hole is not used. With a small, blunt, object (wire – blunted nail) that is slightly smaller than the holes, push up rather firmly up through the outer holes to release front control panel.
4. Remove the three wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out of retaining clip. Use caution: Excessive force will break clips.
5. Release the secondary panel by removing four screws (one in each corner).
6. Remove the flap assembly.
7. Clean all accessible areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. Rinse the cleaned area with clear water and thoroughly dry everything before re-assembling the panel.
8. Install the new flap assembly.
9. Re-installed everything in the reverse order and check the functionality.
10. Order a spare ice chute flapper to be ready for the next event.