GSR23YBPBWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.

The control board and access panel are on the back of the refrigerator, so you will need to roll/slide the refrigerator away from the wall to gain access to the panel. Be careful not kink the water line if you have an ice maker connection.
Unplug the power cord from power outlet on the wall.
On this model the control board is located behind a rectangular panel that is about 8" x 10". The panel is about 3 feet above the floor on the left side (as viewed looking at the back of the refrigerator).
Using a Phillips (cross point) screwdriver, remove the screws and the access panel cover. Look closely at the control circuit board and you will see 4 small white plastic protrusions sticking through the board -- these are the plastic posts that hold the board in place. There is a small tab that locks the board to the plastic mounting post. Use your needle nose pliers (or other small pliers) to compress the small tab on the post; and while squeezing, pull on the control board until it releases from the post/clip. Repeat this for each of the four posts and the board will now be free from the mounts.
Look at the plugs that connect the wires to the board and note the orientation of each plug. Each plug is a different size, so they will only fit into the socket of the correct size. On my refrigerator, there is one plug that is not connected to the board and is hanging loose, so don't get confused when connecting plugs to the new board - this one remains unconnected.
Firmly pull each plug from its socket on the board -- try not to pull by the wires. If you have a stubborn plug, grab it with your pliers and pull it out. There is a green ground wire connected by a screw into the refrigerator cabinet. Remove this screw and ground wire. (Note: on some models the green ground wire is fastened with a screw that holds the cover in place - just be sure to reconnect the wire when replacing the cover).
Insert all of the plugs into the new board -- be sure they are seated firmly. Reinstall the ground wire. Place the board over the plastic posts and push until the tab locks the board in place. Replace the cover.
On the sheet that comes with the refrigerator they instruct you to remove the lower panel on the refrigerator that covers the compressor motor compartment. They instruct you to look at the power cord connection to the compressor and to locate a green wire from a capacitor. If your power cord does not have a capacitor exactly like the one pictured, there is no need to proceed on this step. Replace the lower panel. If it does have a capacitor as illustrated, follow those instructions and then replace the panel.

Now plug in the power cord to the wall power outlet. Before pushing the refrigerator back into place you want to make sure it is operating properly. To make sure that there is no "Glitch" during start up, I suggest that you set the temperature control inside of the refrigerator to "OFF" and wait about 3 minutes. After 3 minutes, set the control to the desired temperature (about 37 Deg for Refrigerator and 0 Deg for the Freezer).
If the refrigerator is running, you are finished. Being careful not to kink the water line, push the refrigerator back into place.

I had some trouble removing the broken switch because a lot of the frame was missing due to the damage from the dropped can. I tried a screwdriver first and then switched to a small putty knife, which someone else had suggested.
Once the switch was loose and wires were accessible, I also had some trouble disconnecting them but they finally turned loose. After that the new switch was easily connected and popped back into the opening.
Definitely take photos as you disconnect!

Removed light cover, found 2 screws in front and rear of light area.Remove screws and you can unplug light to get out of way, but not necessary. Next pop off plastic cover with flat head screw driver and remove the two screws under cover. Next pull cover off water filter and remove water filter this will give you room to slide inlet cover out. Install plastic cone provided by in new kit. Next slide new cover over cone and re-install bottom screws, however leave them loose in order to adjust for the following screws to line up. After all screws and plugs are in place snug all screws. Replace light cover an install water filter and cover. You are done.

Replaced Defrost Thermostat. Tricky removal of light fixture cover and evaporator cover. Light cover screw removal is not intuiitive and the eveaporator cover tabs are not easy AT ALL to remove.Once they are removed, simply 2 screw removal of rear panel.

Had to unscrew screws holding cooling coils to gain access to thermostat mounted on a coil in rear.

Simkple matter to cut wires, remove old thermostat and splice replacement back on. Found it simpler to re-mount thermostat on top coil greatly simplifying process.(Why didn't they place the original unit in this much more accesible place?)
Re-attach coils to rear wall replace rear panel, light fixture cover and evaporator cover.

Refrigerator has been running fine this past week.

Received parts NEXT DAY! FANTASTIC!

Replaced freezer door gasket and fresh food door gasket. fresh food door gasket is works OK. BUT cannot stop new freezer door gasket from leaking cold air . Looked at three or four you tube videos for instructions and seemed to work well. I took off the freezer gasket and turned it over (end for end) and it still has a cold air leak. help

follow the easy instructions replace 3 temperature sensors cut the wires and crimp them with new sensor and it works like new

My father called and asked me if I knew where he could get a new switch light for his refrigerator. I came across your web site and found the part right away. In less than 3 days the part came and my father put it on. He said it was easy and that it was great to have the part come to him instead of having to search all over town. Thanks so much for the fast, easy service.

took out heating element while ice was still on coils..replaced w/new one, thought it would go on to defrost right away ,but freezer had to run it's cycle . Then after about 4 hours all ice was gone and all went ok..back to normal and it is now set on #4 working fine .

I got the model # off the fridge, ordered the part online. The part was fairly cheap and was at my house 2 days after I ordered it. It was the exact part and I installed it in about 15 minutes and everyting worked out fine and easy and cheap, under $15 total to fix the issue. All I needed to do was use a flathead screwdriver to "pop" out the old switch, remove the 2 wires off the wire connection points, put the wires on the new switch and push it back into place. easy. Great place to get exact parts and fast shipping.

Simple directions were provided. It took more to clean and vaccuum than the actual repair. Yes I replaced the motherboard in a referigerator. Just keep not of the connectors and were they came off from on the original board. Dont just rip them off because the new board has some different connections. So follow the directions and take your time if your not sure. But really it a cinch. No more whoooo sheeesh and howling noises from the referigerator. Thank goodness.

Simple; Removed the panel, unplugged the cable connections to the mother board with a rat nosed plier.
Then to remove board you must squeeze closed the 4 plastic retainer clips in each corner, or they can accidentally be pulled off with the board.
Removed the board, re-attached the new board on the clips, then the cable connectors, then the panel.
Plugged in the refrige and it has been silent ever since.
Follow the instructions and anyone can do it.

Unbolted the back cover, pulled out old board, replaced with new bored and powered back on. It is working great now.

I pulled the bulb out to see if it was the bulb, no! I took the switch out, of course with the refer unplugged, and jummped out the wires and the light came on. Ordered my switch and put it in in 10 seconds and then there was light! Thanks again for showing me the light!

Tim in NJ

I located the light switch at the bottom of the area where the door closes. I just popped it out with a small screwdriver and installed the new switch. A 2 wire connecter and small clip is all there is to it.