TPX24PRBABB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Under the control panel there are three small holes. Insert ballpen or small flat screw driver on both outer holes to push a tab lock that holds the control panel in place. Then pull out control panel and three set of wires will be exposed and disconnect wire connectors (connectors have different sizes so you wont get confused in reconnecting). Unscrew four screws on each corner that holds the ice dispenser assembly (a part where you push your glass against to dispense ice or water. The flapper is exposed and easy to replace.

The valve was leaking from the core and not the in/out tubes. The valve is easy to get to and very easy to replace. When replacing the water in/outs you cut them off the old valve and then slip them on the new valve. 5 to 10 minute job.

First I removed the incoming water line from the valve. I then removed the screw that hold the valve in place. Then I pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two connector wires. Next I cut the plastic hoses from the old valve.
To install the new valve, I inserted the two plastic hoses into the new valve. (hoses are different diameters so it is next to impossible to insert them incorrectly.) I replaced the electrical connectors (This was the only glitch since the one connector on the refrigerator is larger then the pins on the new valve, A little electrical tape held the connector in place.) I then tightened the screw that holds the valve on the refirgerator and reconnected the household water to line to the valve.
The entire job took less time then it has taken me to type the procedure.

shut the water supply to the refridgerator unscrewed valve mount removed removed valve supply line with half inch wrench loosened and removed plastic nuts on outlet by hand unplugged both valve actuator cables. loosened two phillips screws from reservior removed inlet and outlet hoses replaced with new parts very simple repair

Removed cardboard cover from back of refrigerator with nutdriver. Removed old pump and reconnected water lines and electrical. reinstalled pump.It did take about 5-10 minutes for the pump to refill ice tray.

Replace the flapper and this solved it. The video provided was excellent and allowed me to do this repair myself.

I used a screwdriver to remove, then replace, the screw that holds in the valve. I used pliers to pull the refer water line out of the old valve. I just used my hands to reinstall the line. I used and open box wrench to remove and reattach the main water line. Nothing blocked access to the valve and it was very easy to remove the old one and install the new one.

Determined that the little door that opens to allow full size cubes to fall was not opening. If you open freezer door, hold door switch in, select cubes and push in the lever that the glass pushes in you should hear the solenoid lift open which opens the little door. Mine was doing nothing. Removed ice bin and then removed icemaker motor/solenoid section from back of freezer by disconnecting two wire harnesses and one screw. Found that solenoid smelled burnt and could see that inside of the solenoid was swollen out of round and burnt. Simple to replace.

First, I had to remove the face plate where the ice and water was dispensed remove 4 screws holding the electrical circuits, disconnect circuits ,remove 2 screws holding soleniod and one screw holdin crank assembly. repace parts and screws.

Replaced dispenser flapper

Pulled the fridge out from the wall, disconnected the power cord,turned off the water supply,removed the backing that covers the fan/motor and the two way water valve. Removed one screw that holds water valve to back of fridge,removed two water lines. Installed the new water valve , connected water lines and screw, installed back dust cover, plugged in the 110 cord, turned on the water valve. Within 30 minutes a new tray of ice cubes was ejected into the ice holding box. Mission completed.

First I removed the screw holding the valve in place. I then pulled the valve out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires and water line.
I repaced the old valve with the new valve and performed the steps in reverse order and the ice maker was making ice that night. I however developed a leak and had to have another valve sent. The problem has been solved and all is well.
Parts select has been fast, friendly and helpful through my whole experience. I would like to say thanks for all your courteous help and hopefully this will help others realize the benefit of Parts select to us do-it-ourselfer!.

Thank you!

Jeff Lopian
Athens, Illinois

Changing the valve was easy, remove and replace. The problem came afterwards. After shuting off the water and waiting for the replacement valve, the water line coming in to the icemaker froze solid causing water to spray into the freezer, causing a major leak. After thawing out the line, it still leaked because the water in the freezer had frozen up the freezer drain again causing another leak.Bottom line, after replaceing the valve, take a few extra minutes to check or replace the water line coming to the icemaker. That will save a headache later.

Disconnected the power, removed the unit by removing 1 screw. Disconnected both water hoses and 2 electric connectors. Wasted alot of time trying to follow the directions that came with the valve. DO NOT try to use the old bracket as the instructions state. It does not work. Just use the valve as it arrives. I liked the easy snap in water tube connectors. Saves time. The electric was a snap. Just install the adapters (lugs) that come with the kit and push them on. Then, just bolt the unit back in and that's it. I did also have a problem with the unit making a screeching noise when it dispensed water. I asked Parts Select for a remedy and they suggested I replace the water filter. That solved the noise problem and now it's like new again. Way to go Parts Select! Thanks for the advice and speedy delivery.

Plastic lines were cracked open right at valve and leaking water onto floor. Bad design on GE's part, plastic lines where heat was produced by compressor.

Turned off water supply.

Removed cardboard panel at rear bottom of refrigerator.

Unscrewed copper fill tube clamp.

Took copper fill tube off of valve using 1/2 inch (I think) open end wrench. This used compression fitting.

Removed solenoid by unscrewing one hex-head screws.

Pulled off two electrical connectors.

Trimmed ends of plastic tubes (they were hardened by heat, and will likely leak again.)

Pushed tubed into new solenoid valves (original connection was via some plastic nut and fitting.)

Reattached electrical connectors, using lug adapters (included in package) on one to make up for slightly narrower terminal on new valve.

Reattached copper fill line to valve using original compression fitting. **Had to bend line to make it fit between new lower valve inlet and screw clamp on refrigerator housing.** That was only slightly tricky part of job.

Reattached valve to refrigerator and replaced cardboard panel.

Turned water on and everything worked, and no leaks.

Will likely need to do this again when old stiff lines crack again.