GSG25MESACBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I replaced the original solenoid, which had rusted into one solid piece. OMG how easy was that!

with a small screwdriver push in tabs in upword movement to remove the face cover for the three botons of ice crushed ice and water .
once removed remove four screw to take out the circular door .
solinoid plunger will be atached to the door and it has to screws holding the solinoid .
instolation is the oposit steps of removing the part

I used a mirror to locate the two small plastic tabs located on the underside of the ice dispenser light. I used a small flat blade screwdirver to push the plastic tabs forward to release the ice/water selector unit. I read about someone that did not see the tabs and ended up removing the inside of the freezer door, a two hour task! The ice and water control unit then slides out. remove the four rusty screws holding the dispensert and ice chute, the selenoid isthen easy to see.
Just replace the solenoid if your are having problems, I tried to lube it but to now avail. There is some rust in there so good time to clean up and put new screws in. Be care when removing the plastic lock tab on the circut board it breaks easely. If it does no big deal just make sure the connection is pushed in all the way. test your handy work before buttoning up. The solenoid comes with a new plunger so don't worry about cleaning the old one. The screws do not come with.

Ordered ice crusher dispenser cover removed 3 screws and face plate of ice crusher was easily replaced and again working like new

First I removed the ice tray rack lifting it out of the way to reach the back cover of the fan. Then, the whole back inside panel had to be removed. Two screws removed the fan and bracket from the freezer unit. The missing bumper lid just snapped into place. Replaced everything in reverse order. Pretty easy job.

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.

Ordered new solenoid so the flap would close. That did the trick.

Replaced both the Defrost Thermostat and Defrost Heating Element. The You Tube repair video clips were extremely helpful for both operations. My difficulty was getting access to the parts that needed to be replaced in a very tight side by side freezer space. Otherwise, the repair went smoothly and the refrigerator is back in normal operation in time to save the perishable food inside.

Bent the motor bracket down, then using a rat tail file, elongated the holes in the back panel of the refrigerator to secure the fan in the "centered" position. This was a problem that was with the refrig. since it was made. The parts involved were perfect. NO problem at all installing them.

The trouble with DIYers is that they don't have very much experience with and the benefit of several repairs on the same appliance. So they must rely on their mechanical abilities and the youtube help of Steve. So they must resort to eliminating the variables as their diagnostic approach. In my case I was unable to find the exact description of my problem, so I began with what seemed like the most likely and the least expensive replacement. So after I had replaced the water valve, the micro switch and the main board I finally found the problem was the water filter by ordering and installing a water bypass valve which I did not have readily available at the start.

Went online and read all the problem an found it could be my Air Inlet Kit...did not know it had one ..was online and ordered it...came in couple days..
to replace the damper I just remove the light at the top of the frige and the cover around it .I also removed the filter and filter cover..then the damper assembly only has 2 screws .I removed top three glass trays for more room...was a little easier than I was expecting..just about 30 minutes to hour ...(1) unplug Ref and last (plug it back in). Thanks ...

WE (WIFE) took out the old parts an replaced with new one ..Be careful to get the placement of the Grommet or they "POP" out on you. fast ship on the parts too.

The only tricky part was removing the front panel. Releasing the latches required considerable force. The best tool I found was a "jack knife" type Allen wrench set, using the medium size wrench, which fit into the release hole and upward pressure did the trick. The rest of the job was very easy.

Uncovering the motor is the most difficult part. Installation is stupid-easy. Put all of the coverings back on in reverse order to the way they were removed. I don't think the ice maker has to come out but we weren't using it so it came out first.

This part worked marvelously. I followed a YouTube video to completion. Essentially, I removed the water filter cover by squeezing the tabs on the side. Then, I removed the housing for the light based on the tabs placement. I unscrewed the lighting fixture, unplugged and set aside. After that, I removed the bottom part of the damper assembly (that's not included but virtually attached to the damper) by pulling on its tabs' placements. Then, I pulled off the damper assembly, unplugged the cords and added the new assembly WITH the inclusion of the damper gasket assembly that doesn't seem to have been a part of the old assembly. Rescrewed and reattached everything and now the fridge is as good as new!!!