TBF16AGR General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

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I'll be back...

It could not have been easier. The new part matched the old part exactly. I turned the water off going to the refrigerator, unscrewed one screw from the old part, pulled the electric plug loose, disconnect the copper water line from old part, cut off the black plastic tube next to the water valve going to the icemaker, and the new water valve was ready to install. It's that simple. I then took the new water valve, connected the copper water line to it, pushed the black plastic water line into its hole, connected the electric plug, and screwed the new part onto the refrigerater. In a matter of minutes I had water running to my icemaker again. I can't imagine the money I saved by doing this simple project myself. This took less than 10 minutes.

The original piece was already removed. installation required a little custom fitting as the mounting was slightly different and the copper tubing from the water line needed to be bent to fit. The push in plastic connection (output to the icemaker itself ) was simple ( I was a little leary of it not leaking.)
I plugged in the solenoid connection first
I attached both water lines and checked for fit. Made the adjustments and then screwed the bracket back on to the refrigerator. I could only install one screw but it holds it fine. I did have to trim the hard press board(cardboard) a little to fit the new valve. I believe the board is to protect against dust build up on the mechanical equipment (motor, condenser,etc)

Super simple. Extremely fast delivery of part. Simply disconnect the 2 fast-on connectors to valve, disconnect intake and out lines. connect intake and out tubes to new unit, mount via screws to fridge, reconnect the 2 fast-on power connectors and your back in business. Could not be an easier repair.

I first replaced the ice maker and when that didn't work, I found out through this forum that another possibility is the water outlet valve.

When I got the replacement, it took some time to install because the bracket wasn't the same as the original. There are enough places on the bracket to mount the unit, but it may require using some force to bend the bracket so that it will flush with the wall.

After installation, it took about 2 days to fill up the ice bin. It cycles out ice crescents every 2-3 hours.

Thanks partselect for having this forum and saving me some money by having others share their experiences.

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.

Installed the new timer.

I ordered two switches, replaced both with a knife in 10 minutes. Interior light works, thanks.

All the repair people was on the money . I read them all .1--- NO paper work with new valve (.no instructions) ..2--- bracket is not the same .. I reversed my braket and it worked fine .you do not have to bend bracket.3--- It will take a day or so to start making ice..4--- the plastic nut is no longer needed on the new type outlet valve ....5--- the new outlet valve looks a little different from the old valve. WORKS GREAT ..

I removed fragments and snapped the replacement parts into place.

The difficulty about these particular parts is that they have to be replaced frequently. The little plastic parts are scandalously expensive for what they are.

have not done this installation before learning curve. may only complant would be that the magnet on the door seal was not a good as the original weak magnet. fit fine seal weak . Rich

Snapped right in. Couldn't have been easier.

I found instructions on the web about how to do this repair, so I ordered the part with confidence. But the instructions simply said "pull out the old switchlight". That was actually somewhat difficult as the clip on the side intended to hold the part in was stubborn. I eventually used a utility to slice off the clip. From that point, it was just a matter of plugging in the new switchlight , which was very simple.

Cut old thermostat out and installed with heat shrinking wrap and solder the wires and still having issues it might be something else.