PIT23SCRDSV General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

took back panel off in freezer.unpluged unit then cut wire to sensor tie in new one wire nut them up and taped.on the heater strip took off two screws and unpluged two wires put the new in same way as taking old one off.I am pleased that the parts from part select came as fast as they did I would for sure buy from them again and prices were very fair.Thank you very much for your service.

Replaced both temp sensors worked good for 2 days then began freezing food. Looked into it further on line. Found small motorized door broken that controls the cold air from the freezer

I watched the on live video. Piece of cake!

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

Easy fix, but they don't give you plenty of wire to work with. When I pulled the switch out it only had about an inch of wire that came with it. meaning if I didn't have a grasp on the wires as I was removing the switch they would have slipped back up the opening

It was very simple! I assessed the situation and gathered my tools for the job. I used a flat head screwdriver, pliers, and electrical tape. I used the flat head screwdriver to release the switch from its location, the pliers to take the electrical terminations apart. I taped the wires individual so that I would not loose them in the door, also not to short them out. I then unpackaged the new switch to install. Pulled the tape off one of the of the terminals while holding the wire, and attached it to the new switchs terminal post. Did the same with the other wire, then snapped the new switch back into place. Immediately had results. I opened and closed the door a few times in amazement that something so annoying such as a light in your fridge could be so easy to fix. Most of all, having a business to rely on to find the part and deliver in a timely fashion. Thank you Partselect.com, you were outstanding!!!

First, we called Sears Repair and had a technician come to our home. He stated the motherboard had gone bad probably due to a power surge (we had no surge protector on the appliance). His price for repair was $465.00. We opted to go online for the part and found it for $165.00 through PartSelect.com. It was a very simple procedure of removing the old and installing the new. A few turns with the nut driver to uncover the part, a few tugs with the pliers to disconnect and voila!.. The fridge was back to cooling in no time.

The trouble shooting information on the web site indicated that the damper door within the climate control unit may be broken. This was easily confirmed and the replacement of the climate control unit immediately returned the food locker temperatures to the digital electronic thermostat settings. The part has an improved ventilation gasket interface between the food locker and freezer. The unit works perfectly again, and the food locker temperature is exactly what the thermostat setting is.

First, I turned off the water supply line to the refrigerator from the house at the wall and unplugged the power cord. Secondly, I removed the small screws that hold the piece of cardboard over the opening in the lower left corner (rear of the refrigerator) by the compressor. Thirdlyl, I removed the other end of the water line where it attaches to the water valve with an adjustable end wrench. Then I removed the small screw that holds the double water outlet valves to the refrigerator frame. I then removed the water valve by pulling it out of the rear of the refrigerator, unplugged the electrical connections, and cut the water lines where they enter the valves. I then plugged the electrical connectors into the new valves and pushed the hoses into their respective openings. These are one-way connectors - once you push them in (firmly) they will not leak or come back out. All I did then was replace the valve and secure it with the one little screw and then replace the cardboard piece onto the rear of the refrigerator. Don't forget to turn the water supply back on. That's it!!

I removed the screws out of the hinge while my wife put pressure on the door to hold it in place. I removed the hinge, replaced it with a new one, and screwed it back in place. Took just a couple of minutes. Easy and fast. The refrigerator was not leveled properly and that was why the door had swung back so fast, with enough force to eventually bend the hinge. I contacted geappliances.custhelp.com and used the chat option to speak to someone about how to lower the back wheels. They were extremely helpful in walking me through it. Now the refrigerator is leveled, and the door, when opened, will not swing back and contact the hinge. My overall experience in fixing this problem, from locating and ordering the correct part, to installing it, and then fixing the problem that led to the hinge being damaged in the first place, was outstanding.

Raised side of fridge enough to get 1/4" ratchet with 1/4" socket under roller wheel assy. Removed three hex-head screws to separate damaged wheel assy from fridge frame. From panel below fridge compartment, backed-out stripped leveling screw. Mounted new roller assy and then threaded in new leveling screw from front. Lowered fridge and adjusted leveling screw for proper height. Suggest putting a 2x4 under fridge for safety when hands are under unit.

pulled out refer. found leak at corner lower back, pulled off lower cover. found valve for icemaker leaking. looked in owners/inst guide, pulled up on computer, identified part, called, order overnight part. recieved part & installed, repair complete & successful.

Shut off water supply. Unplugged refrigerator. Removed cover. (6 screws -- nutdriver will come in handy). Removed screw securing water valve to frame (again the nutdriver). Unplugged red and white power connectors to solenoids. Using channel locks, loosened nut holding main water supply to valve and removed. Depressed compression fittings to valve and pulled out plastic water lines that supply water dispenser and ice maker. Reconnected main water supply to new part. Pushed both water lines into respective fittings of new part. Reconnected power supply to solenoids. Attached new part to frame with screw. Replaced back cover. Turned water supply back on. Plugged refrig. back in. Problem solved! Savings = $300!

Your instructions were "spot on"! Pried out broken switch with screwdriver-reinstalled new switch. Very easy! Ordered on line on a Wednesday new part arrived on following Saturday-Great service and will definately use again. Highly recommend PartSelect!

After lots of research online, i narrowed my problem down to be the double outlet water valve, behind the fridge. My biggest problem was getting the refridgerator out of its spot, but after that it was pretty simple to change. I took the cover off the bottom, in the back of the fridge, then i removed the inlet waterline (after i turned off the water supply to the fridge). After that i removed the screw that holds the valve to the framework. Now i pulled off the two other waterlines from the old valve and moved them, one at a time, over to the new valve, along with the wire harness. The rest of the instalation was reverse order. Simple fix that im glad i didn't pay an expert to do!