GSE25METBCWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Turned off water supply, removed bottom rear metal panel,with a towel to catch water pushed in and removed water line from double water outlet, removed metal clamp and then grommet tube assembly from top right rear of refrigerator. Then I put in new grommet tube assembly, turned on my water and checked for leaks.

Used screw driver to lightly remove the old switch. Disconnected the 2 electrical leads to the old switch, then I connected those leads to the new switch. The light immediately came back on and I placed the switch into its housing hole and popped it in place. It works perfectly now. My wife said "let there be light"! Very easy installation. Thanks.

We just pried off the fan blades and pushed on the new part. Could not have been easier. The rat has been permanently dipatched and, hopefully, that is that.

Removed all suerrounding parts and replaced dispenser with new part. Easy.

Removed control panel. Snapped out pretty easily. Removed flapper assembly (4 small screws). Replaced micro switch by prying it away from its holder (unsnaps easily). Disconnected the two wires leading to the micro switch and connected them to the new microswitch and reinstalled switch in reverse order. Cost of switch, approximately $13 including shipping. Saved a ton of money doing it myself.

Ordered the part and within three working days the part was delivered. It took two minutes to pry off the broken part and one minute to snap in the new one.

replaced with new one

Unplugged the refrigerator first....then on the inside of the fridge, I popped the temp sensor cover off (upper LH side) and exposed the old sensor. I snipped off the old sensor about 3" down from the end and connected the new sensor (which I trimmed down to about 3" long) with some heat shrink wire nuts/connectors. Let the fridge run for a day or so and confirmed the problem was solved! Oh yeah, there was no way to tell the 2 wires apart (power vs. ground) on the sensor. However there was a manufacturer's stamp on the wires. So note the orientation of the text and mark one of the wires with a sharpie on both the old and new sensor before trimming. This will give you a reference for which wires to connect when adding the new sensor to the old wires.

It really was as simple as the other folks noted. Slid a screwdriver into the edge of the broken switch and it popped right out. Disconnected and reconnected each of the two wires and just slid the switch back into the slot. Truly a DIY fix.

Used nut driver to remove two screws at top of tube, and the three screws holding composite cover on back of fridge. Pulled out the upper portion of tube, pulled up on fitting and removed lower portion of tube. Put upper spout portion of new supply tube into position, replaced two screws, pushed lower portion of tube into locking fitting on supply valve solenoid. Replaced composite cover with three screws, and was done. Entire job took less than 5 minutes. It took longer for me to find my nut driver set, than it took to do the repair. I ordered the part online, and it was delivered to my door in a lightning fast 36 hours. Hopefully I won't ever need any more appliance parts, but with your easy to navigate website, fast shipping, and fair prices, you have won me over as a customer. I will refer you to friends because of your high speed, low drag, zero defects, excellent service. Thank you very much. Rich.

Replaced light switch. Defrost cycle remains suspect but refrigerator has worked OK for about 10 days.

Things fall out of my refrigerator frequently thus the broken lite switch. Thought tape would solve until new part arrived. Thank goodness part came the next day as even with tape on and door close and light bulbs removed fridge read door as open and would not cool It is programmed not to run with door open. Within 24 hours part was delivered, unbelievable . It was that fast. Easy insertion and plugged in to the wiring and my refridge once more recognized the door was shut and began cooling. Thanks again

Temp. Sensor was under an egg shaped cover on the left side wall in the refrigerator. Remove the cover, cut the two wires to the old sensor and remove it. Connect the new sensor to the two wires using butt connectors. Replace cover and done.

Used small screw driver to pry the top of the switch away from left inside wall of freezer side of side-by-side refrig./freezer; then used pliers to remove the switch; then removed the 3 prong socket and plugged it to new switch and installed it into the inside wall of the freezer.

The installation was quite easy, especially if you still had the old one for visual (I didn't). Snapped in easily once you got the geometry correct. Hook the right side first, bend slightly in the middle and it should snap into the slot on the left. What I didn't account for was that the entire unit was no longer working (kept filling water in tray and overflowing) so I ended up having to buy an entire ice maker replacement unit anyway. Be careful if you do buy the replacement unit though. Not all parts are actually universal for all models (I.e., stripper arm and refill cups vary) so hold onto your old parts just in case.