GDS20KCSCWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

First, the part arrived very quickly- 2days (FedEx). Removed the back panel, began pulling multi-prong plugs from the old board. To remove the plug that came out laterally (power wires?), I used a thin screwdriver to press the retaining clips on the side of each pin (4 white) holding the circuit board in place and pulled it out for clearance, then wiggled the multi plug free from the board. [I didn't put a lot of pressure on the board while pulling these plugs- 'cause if the new board didn't work, I'd still have the old one.]

Installation was pretty much the reverse of all the steps above. Thankfully, this unit did not have a bottom freezer as two steps in the instructions would have made it riskier.
Once plugged in, I listened for the fan and compressor to kick-in, didn't hear them (was concerned at first), but the dispenser worked ("yea!")- both crushed and cubed ice. The water worked also and it's been running fine for a couple of weeks now. After checking the temp settings they seemed more stable, the fan and compressor kicked in after a few minutes, and the ice-maker is working better than before (fills more quickly). Also, it seems to run less which makes me think I've been wasting electricity while the old control board was bad. Who knows what temps it was trying to reach on each side?
Not that hard to repair, but read the instructions 'very' closely so you don't do something (like cut a wire) that doesn't apply to your fridge. Tim

Having been in the h vac field for thirty years,I started looking for the defrost timer and found the circuit board. I went on-line and found PartSelect. The site was very helpful in helping me to find the part I needed.The clips were a little hard to get off the old board, but besides that the installation was pretty easy.

first empty both sides then took apart freezer area ice maker-light cover-back cover and exposed fanchecked all connections ordered fan[had no amp probe to see if power at motor repaceed fan still fan didnot runmoved fridg out from wall found control board didnt find any thing wrongto the eye ordered control board remove all connectionsused plyers be easy to remove from board squezed little whit tabs[3 or 4] to remove board from fridge installed new board snapping the pegs back into holes then reinstallwire connectors [ps the board comes with a few extra ports dont worryjust connect to the ones on the old board] dont forget to hook up green groung wire when you put cover back on then plug in and turned on closed up the freezer and reinstalled icemaker and other parts started and all seems ok good luck

used volt meter to test for power at compressor prongs and test pins on main board, found no power leaving pins at main board.removed board and found burnt relay for compressor. replaced main board with new board, and presto.

according to the vidio showing how to to change the control board its look relatively easy i dont think i will have a problem changing it ,,but will i change the right part for the problem " the frige take to long to get cold again after thrawing state freezer temperature went up to 19 * or more sometime ,,thermostat has been changed and its solved the ice deposit problem" hopefully changing the control board will help shorting the long thrawing state" the board has not been changed cause the frige start working again

The freezer kept getting to warm (up to 28 degrees at times on the digital display). We took the cover off the main control board, and if we pushed on one of the connections it would start the condenser. Sometimes the freezer would work for several weeks, and then have trouble for a week.

Finally we got tired of "baby-sitting" the fridge, and sent for a new main control board. Installed in about 15 minutes, and so far the everything is working great.

I found an online thread where someone else's fridge had similar symptoms as mine. 1.)Freezer would warm up to room temperature followed by the fridge. 2.)Compressor would not start once the freezer got above the set temperature. 3.)I would unplug the unit, wait a minute, & plug it back, but the compressor would only run for a few minutes. I removed the main control board and found that it appeared that one of the solders had shorted to the metal compartment that it is installed in. This connection, which was for the control board relay switch, was melted away and was not letting the board start the compressor when the temp. would rise. I ordered a new board which was delivered very quickly, installed it, and everything works fine now. Saved a lot of money over having someone else look at it or buying a new fridge. Changing the board was very easy since each connector has a different number of pins. It is imposible to plug them into the wrong spot.

I ensured that the refrigerator was unplugged from the power, removed the main board enclosure cover, carefully unplugged the wiring connectors from the board, released the 4 plastic standoffs with needle nosed pliers by gently squeezing the ends and removed the board.
I placed the new Main Control Board on the standoffs, carefully re-connected the electrical connectors, ensuring that the plugs were mated correctly, replaced the board enclosure cover and powered up the refrigerator to verify operation of the compressor, fans and controls.
Once verified, I unplugged the refrigerator from the power, removed the access cover to the compressor and condenser and carefully cleaned all dust and lint from the back and underside of the refrigerator before replacing the cover and putting the refrigerator back into service.
The cleaning will improve the efficient operation of the refrigerator.

After viewing Steve's How To video, I decided to order the part and do the job myself rather than call a repairman. I had the same issue a few years prior and the repairman changed the main control board, which fixed the problem. Turns out the job was rather easy, went fairly smoothly and I saved myself money that I would've spent on a service call. I would definitely use PartSelect.com again.

Pulled fridge forward for access to rear of unit. Disconnedted 110 v. power plug, removed 3 self-tapping screws from the small access panel. Unplugged about 5 plugs from the defective Control Board, plus one grounding connector. Removed defective board by compressing each of the 4 nylon retaining clips (one of which was quite stubborn)with long-nosed pliers. Snapped the new Board onto the nylon retaining clips and re-connected all the plugs. Positioned the grounding connecter under one of the self-tapping screws, then tightened all 3 screws. Plugged the fridge back in, and voila! - no more whistling sound. Marriage saved.

repair man came, estimate of $400 to fix the motherboard. I went online, got the part for less than $150 and fixed myself in short time! First time repairing an appliance.

installed the part

For I am not good at the English so that I am some what difficult to show my repairing procedure and here what I do as follow but at first I rely on The PartSelect Diagram in order finding out which component might be defective. My opinion to the problem is Thermalstat Sensor so that I proceeded to check if it was defective. I used Ohm meter measure the internal switch contact from the sensor and see that it is active. And after that I have turned my doubt to The electronic board controller. It is this, the culprit. The malfunction in the Board.
If you had your experience in Electronic repairing, you would simply done the replacement for the larger Capacitor from the Board. Contrarily you should perform the replacement for whole Electronic Board. Thank you to PartSelect for provided Diagram to Customer.

unplug old and put new one in very easy thanx maribel castelan

Unplug refer.Rear rectangular plate conceals PC board. Gently remove modular connecters from old PC. Pinch each plastic anchor with needlenose while gently lifting board until free. Be delicate! Install in reverse. Each mod. plug can only be attached to its respective connection point on the board. A common repair after power surge/lightening strike caused evap. motor to whine and groan and icemaker to snap and bang. I do this for a living but no problem for you either.