DSS25KGTEWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Disconnect main water line from behind refrigerator
Remove bottom panel from refrigerator
Disconnect hose from water valve
Remove metal hose guard from top left of refrigerator Carefully remove plumbers putty from around filter hose (you will be reinstalling this putty around new hose assembly)
Inside refrigerator remove MWF water filter and guard, and then remove two screws holding filter assembly in place (this requires socket set with 4” extension bar)
Carefully pull filter hose assembly towards you from front of refrigerator. Once assembly is out remove Styrofoam cover from old assembly and install on new assembly
To reassemble, simply follow this process in reverse. Good luck

The trouble shooting information on the web site indicated that the damper door within the climate control unit may be broken. This was easily confirmed and the replacement of the climate control unit immediately returned the food locker temperatures to the digital electronic thermostat settings. The part has an improved ventilation gasket interface between the food locker and freezer. The unit works perfectly again, and the food locker temperature is exactly what the thermostat setting is.

Raised side of fridge enough to get 1/4" ratchet with 1/4" socket under roller wheel assy. Removed three hex-head screws to separate damaged wheel assy from fridge frame. From panel below fridge compartment, backed-out stripped leveling screw. Mounted new roller assy and then threaded in new leveling screw from front. Lowered fridge and adjusted leveling screw for proper height. Suggest putting a 2x4 under fridge for safety when hands are under unit.

Your instructions were "spot on"! Pried out broken switch with screwdriver-reinstalled new switch. Very easy! Ordered on line on a Wednesday new part arrived on following Saturday-Great service and will definately use again. Highly recommend PartSelect!

This is second ice bucket auger I had to replace, don't know why it's breaking , but partselect was great to work with, replaced the broken part, was fast and very nice to help. I really appreciated their service. There was no repair, I mean, open the box, take out broken auger box, put in new one. No possibility of error.

Before replacing the top filter housing, ensure the inlet water valve is operational. Replacing is a straight forward process. Unhook the houses from the inlet water valve in the back of the refrigerator. Remove and replace the top filter housing and ensure you replace the sealant using plumbers putty or sealant dicor butyl putty.

pulled out refer. found leak at corner lower back, pulled off lower cover. found valve for icemaker leaking. looked in owners/inst guide, pulled up on computer, identified part, called, order overnight part. recieved part & installed, repair complete & successful.

Shut off water supply. Unplugged refrigerator. Removed cover. (6 screws -- nutdriver will come in handy). Removed screw securing water valve to frame (again the nutdriver). Unplugged red and white power connectors to solenoids. Using channel locks, loosened nut holding main water supply to valve and removed. Depressed compression fittings to valve and pulled out plastic water lines that supply water dispenser and ice maker. Reconnected main water supply to new part. Pushed both water lines into respective fittings of new part. Reconnected power supply to solenoids. Attached new part to frame with screw. Replaced back cover. Turned water supply back on. Plugged refrig. back in. Problem solved! Savings = $300!

Removed tray, threw out ice , removed 3 screws used 2 screw drivers to seperate part & re installed

Replacing the water filter with the new style water filter was no problem...twist to the left, drop the old filter, line up arrows on housing and new filter, twist to the right and done.

Ice maker was always crusing ice. There is a spring deflector wound around the actuating rod towards the back of the ice dispenser. Pulled the ice dispenser out, slid the damaged spring off, and slid the new spring deflector on making sure to engage the actuator rod to restore it's action. Easy fix.

Only tool I used was 1/4 inch socket. Using the 1/4 inch socket, the screws were removed from the panel covering the control board. (this is on the back in the lower right corner). When this panel is off you are looking at the control board. Next remove all the plug in connectors. Don't worry about remembering where they go. They all are different and can only go in their specific place. After removing the connectors, pull the board out. Replace the plug in connectors before putting the new board back in , then snap the board back into place.(held in by four pins). Replace the cover.

The very first symptom here is important! The door water dispenser is not working but the ice macine is working. You may only have a frozen water tube in the door so do the following before diagnosing that your solenoid valve is bad: 1) the tube usually runs under the front of the refrigerator and usually has a quick disconnect. Undo the connection and press the dispenser. If water comes out of the tube you have a frozen or blocked tube in the door. 2) Immediately adjust the temperature in the freezer and warm the freezer compartment as much as you can without destroying the freezer contents. Wait 24 hours. This will usually unfreeze the line. Do not waste your time with a hair dryer. NOW, if this doesn't work and you are convinced you need to order and replace the solenoid, follow these steps. Assemble your tools first. I needed a good ratchet set and a screwdriver. A shop towel is helpful for spilled water. A light is handy. Pull out the refrigerator to gain access to the rear of the unit. Unplug the power and close the water valve (older homes, you may need to actually shut the house water supply). Remove the screws which hold the cover over the lower half of the refrigerator. On the left you will see the solenoid. It's always good to see that your new part matches the one you feel needs replaced. They may not match perfectly due to changing design but they should be very similar. One screw holds this part in place and access is very simple. Now simply unplug the electrical connections. In my case, one blue "blade" type connection (powering the water) and one red "blade" type connection powering the ice maker. They are not the same size and this coupled with the coloring means you will not accidently switch them. pull the tubes clear of the solenoid. This is simple and needs no explanation. Grab your new solenoid and reattach both the electrical and water lines (two, remember, ice maker and drink dispencer). Replace the single screw. Re-attach the rear, lower refrigerator cover and go to the front of the unit to check the water. You can listen carefully and hear the power engage from the new part bringing you water. Clean up, replace the refrigerator back to its place and look really tired when your wife sees that you worked "so hard"! You probably saved at least $50-$80 from a service call.

1. Slide out refrigerator away from wall.
2. Unplug refrigerator electrical cord.
3. Slide out refrigerator further to be able to get in back of.
4.Turn off water control going to refrigerator.
5. Clear top shelf around water filter area, remove water filter.
6. Remove water filter cover housing lid by lifting off.
7. Using a ¼" nut driver, remove two screws attaching water filter housing.
8. Go to back side of refrigerator, & remove 2 screws from the silver cover plate of MWD manifold water line unit.
9.Using ¼" nut driver, remove lower cardboard cover that protects the motor & fan area.
10. Clean motor & fan area with old tooth brush gently, & vacuum dust off.
11.Using (2) ½" open end wrenches, loosen & remove both water lines.
12. Go to front inside of refrigerator. Gently pull out old water line manifold assembly, you may have to twist it some to get the protective sleeve out of the hole.
13.Insert new water line manifold assembly into the hole, when it gets to mostly in, gently work the protective sleeve through the hole.
14.Position the new manifold water filter housing into place & reinstall 2 screws. Do not over tighten.
15. Go to back side of refrigerator, gently push down on protective sleeve so you then can replace silver cover with 2 screws. Do not over tighten.
16. Remove old tape that was originally holding water line tubings.
17.Connect water lines to water supply lines, using (2) ½ " wrenches. Tight, but not over tight.
18. Re tape water lines to back of refrigerator, using a strong tape like duct tape in an orderly fashion.
19. Turn on water supply, check for leaks.
20.Re install black cardboard piece on lower end of refrigerator.
21. Plug in refrigerator.
22. Install water filter inside of refrigerator. Install cover over filter housing.

The hard part was cleaning the dust around the coil and fan area. Its plug and play right after that. Two nuts on the fan housing and a wire harness snaps on and off. Bam! 1,2,3 Up and running. . Like new. . . Thank you ps

I pulled-out & unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the screws to gain access through the lower back panel. The water valve is on the left side as I face the back of the fridge. It has one screw holding it to the frame of the fridge. Once it is free, the main water hose is unscrewed and the two out-let lines were pulled-out. If your valve was not ruined prior to this, it is ruined now, as the lines will not re-seat. Then everything is done in reverse order. I did cut 1/2 inch off of the two lines so that they reseat into the new valve. Just push into the valve and they are good.