RG2300NGPCBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Watched the video, did exactly as it showed.

Googled the symptoms online and found the great video from Parts Select. My recommendation is follow the video and the rest is easy!

Turned power off at breaker. Took off front panel on the door. Unscrewed the panel where the electrical parts were plugged in. Then you could unscrew the old solenoid assembly and install the new one. Cleaned around the Ice shute since some mold was there. Put all back together. We watched the video from you tube about 5 times!!

Initially couldnt find the "letter" on the back of the fridge to assist me in figuring out which of the 12 different directions I was supposed to use but by going through a number of them, just picked one that looked the same and tried it. Luckily, the previous owners had an icemaker and had just left everything in there except for the actual icemaker, so all we really had to do was connect the new icemachine and plug in to the frig, then get a connector hose to hook up to the water supply and we were done. We are now enjoying ice already, although we are throwing out the first couple of cubes since the water had been in the pipes for awhile. have lots of extra pieces thats for sure!

Gentlemen,

Many thanks for the help in repairing my GE refrigerator. From the web site and videos, I determined the problem with the flapper on my ice maker was a bad solenoid. I ordered the part from you then followed the step by step instructions to install it. It made what seemed to be an intimidating job rather easy.

Thanks again,

Gary Schafer

exactly as described in your video.

Pull fridge away from wall and unplug it! Turn water valve off. Open freezer door and stuff a small rag/washcloth in hole where ice exits to keep the cold air in. There are 3 small holes on the bottom of the control panel, stick a small Phillips head screwdriver in the 2 outside holes and pop the control panel out. Pull the 3 connectors out of the back of the control panel. Set the control panel aside. Unscrew 4 Phillips head screws holding the plastic control panel bracket/ice cup/light bulb. Set this piece aside. Unscrew 3 screws that hold solenoid. Mine was completely rusted. Throw the old solenoid in the garbage. All the screws I removed were rusted. Go to home depot get some stainless steel screws that are the same size as the rusted screws and some spray rust inhibitor for metal and a tube of anti-seize. Wipe everything down with 1/10 solution of Clorox/water(q-tips help to get the tight areas)to get rid of all the MOLD. Spray a light coat of rust inhibitor on your new solenoid and let it dry. Coat the metal plunger of your new solenoid with anti- seize lubricant. Replace solenoid and all other screws that are rusted with stainless steel screws. Put the plastic bracket back in with 4 screws. Plug the 3 control panel wires back in and pop the control panel in the bracket. Pull the rag out of the ice chute, turn water back on, plug fridge in and push it back against the wall. Your done and hopefully the extra steps will help your solenoid last longer! Hope this helps!

I watched the Video on partselect website for replacing the Solenoid. The repair went smooth. No problem.

Removed the dispenser panel and replaced-less than 10 min and a savings of $300.00 for a service call.

i followed the instuction, it was easy,

Contrary to the visual instructions I could not remove the frame around the control opening nor did it turn out need to be removed. The control panel was easily removeable with a small screw driver inserted in the two outer holes at the bottom. Once this was removed I removed the four screws removing the panel with the chute and giving access to the solenoid. The three screws holding the solenoid were rusty and I applied some liquid wrench on each to help with the removal while I cleaned around the area. The solenoid was easily removed but the screws needed replacement which I obtained at my local hardware. Once the solenoid was attached again I replaced the other parts as they were removed and the flapper door is now working as it should. It took all of about 15 minutes for the repair but two days to figure out I did not have to remove the opening frame. Somewhere in the "Repair Film" it should be mentioned that for some Models removal of the "Opening Frame" may not be necessary just proceed to removing the Control Panel.

Took apart freezer door dispenser mechanism and replaced solenoid assembly in its entirity. Easy fix once the fix to the problem was identified.

I followed instructions from a video. I pulled off the front panel, then the circuit board unit. Next I removed the Solenoid Assembly and installed the new one. I replaced everything and tested the water dispenser with no success. I assume the solenoid assembly was ok so therefore I need to get the circuit board tested.

Cut off water supply remove water inlet valve @ bottom of refrigerator. Replace valve. Replace water inlet port @ top of refrigerator directly behind icemaker allowing glue to dry. Cut on water supply. Avoid opening freezer for 12 hours allowing temperature to become low enough for icemaker to call for water. (A small leak in inlet valve will allow water to freeze in inlet port. When this happens, when the valve opens the water cannot enter because of frozen obstruction, thus blowing inlet port off back of refrigerator). Replace valve problem solved.

I reviewed several You Tube repair videos. Not all of them were correct even though my model and brand were specifically mentioned in the videos. Use You Tube with a grain of salt. After sifting through the you tubes, I distilled the information by looking for consistencies. The most inconsistent information was on how to remove the plastic bezels. Once that was figured out, the repair was very easy. Upon removal, I inspected the solenoid. It was very rusted and was no longer capable of pulling the mechanism closed after it had (successfully) opened the flap. The new solenoid fixed the problem in a flash.